Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Trouble Starting - GM HEI Small Cap, Remote Coil

  1. #1

    Default Trouble Starting - GM HEI Small Cap, Remote Coil

    Hello Forum members. I started my setup for the first time last night, and let it idle to get up to temp (approximately 15 min). I went to start synchronizing the timing, and when I attached the pickup of my timing light to the #1 spark plug wire, the engine instantly quit. Several attempts of restarting, all resulted with the engine firing for about 1 second and then stalling. This morning I wanted to ensure that the crank timing had not changed, so I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump/injectors. When cranking, the timing light shows consistent spark @ 13° which is the same as last night. (EFI software is commanding 15°, but I haven't started synchronizing the timing). When I install the fuel pump/injector fuse back in, the motor continues to act as previously stated. However, the timing light shows no spark after the initial fire up. I believe this is the root of my problem.

    Setup:
    SBC 355 with Holley Stealth Ram
    Small cap HEI (Cardone brand) ― Ignition module is not genuine GM. I think this is where I should start.
    Remote coil (Cardone brand) .. ― Stock OEM type.
    Ignition Type ...................... ― GM HEI (Computer Controlled)
    Inductive Delay ................... ― 240 usec
    Ignition Reference Angle ....... ― 10°

    Is there anything else in the settings that I may have missed or setup incorrectly? I would like to ensure it's setup correctly before I dismantle the ignition system.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    17,620

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TerribleTrux View Post
    SBC 355 with Holley Stealth Ram
    Small cap HEI (Cardone brand) ― Ignition module is not genuine GM. I think this is where I should start.
    I agree. Start there, especially if the Data Monitor doesn't display legitimate cranking RPM.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5760#post45760 (Scroll down to "Typical No-Start Checks".)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  3. #3

    Default

    I picked up some parts this afternoon to try & fix the issue that I'm having. I first tried a new coil as it was easy to change but, this had no effect on the starting behavior of my engine. I then installed my original coil and changed the ignition module. Unfortunately, the local parts store did not have a genuine GM or ACDelco part available, so I took a chance on another brand. First attempt at starting with the new ignition module, and it fired up. I'm confident now that this was the problem. Unfortunately, this new module also failed after about 5-10 minutes of idling. This one seems to work when it's cool or around room temp. As soon as the engine gets up to operating temperature, the spark fades away and the engine stalls.

    Looks like I will have to keep looking for a genuine GM/ACDelco ignition module to put this issue to bed. Question: Is there anything that I could be doing wrong to inflict some sort of damage to these modules? Or is the quality of these aftermarket parts just that bad? Thank you for the help thus far Danny.
    Last edited by TerribleTrux; 07-30-2016 at 06:12 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    17,620

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TerribleTrux View Post
    Question: Is there anything that I could be doing wrong to inflict some sort of damage to these modules?
    Probably not, unless it's a wiring problem.

    Or is the quality of these aftermarket parts just that bad?
    Well, not that bad. Are you using a CD ignition box? If it's a bad ignition module, I suggest using a CD ignition box, because it fires the coil and takes the load off of the ignition module. (The ignition module just triggers the CDI box.) I always recommend using a CD ignition box with distributor type ignition systems. Here's why: LINK.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  5. #5

    Default

    Over the past few days I was able to scrounge up 3 used GM/Delco ignition modules with unknown mileage. (I have a new one on order.) I installed the one that looks to be in the best condition. I also added a heat sink to the bottom of the distributor, under where the module sits.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	28666315021_5a46eea932_z.jpg 
Views:	197 
Size:	75.6 KB 
ID:	1726

    I have put about 150 miles on the engine now with no ignition problems. I think this issue has been resolved.

    I have another question regarding synchronizing the timing. I have the Inductive Delay set to where the timing stays steady from idle up to 4000 RPM. If I raise the RPM slowly/moderately fast it stays in sync. If I blip the throttle fast the timing wanders about 5° (this is with Static Timing set @ 25°). Is this the expected operation? Or should the timing be dead on regardless of how fast the throttle is changed?
    Last edited by TerribleTrux; 08-03-2016 at 11:17 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    17,620

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TerribleTrux View Post
    I have put about 150 miles on the engine now with no ignition problems. I think this issue has been resolved.
    Yeah, the ignition module is usually the problem.

    If I raise the RPM slowly/moderately fast it stays in sync.
    That's good, then you have it properly adjusted.

    If I blip the throttle fast the timing wanders about 5° (this is with Static Timing set @ 25°). Is this the expected operation?
    Yes, it is with a distributor type ignition system.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  7. #7

    Default

    Thank you Danny for the help. Greatly appreciated.

  8. #8

    Default

    Hi, I have a question related about this with the module on the distributor. Why should the installation of the module (TFI), have a paste for maximum heat transfer, between the distributor housing and the module? Wouldn't a heat shielding material may be preferable? The heat seems to come from the engine after shutdown. Or can a heat shield, compromising the electrical conection? Thanks.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    17,620

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MUST.SWEDE View Post
    Why should the installation of the module (TFI), have a paste for maximum heat transfer, between the distributor housing and the module? Wouldn't a heat shielding material may be preferable?
    Google "thermal conductive grease".
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  10. #10

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us