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Thread: TPS % starts jumping after engine wash.

  1. #11

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    I’ve just failed my second TPS. The first one that came with the Terminator started acting up driving in a heavy rain storm and this morning was after an engine wash. One thing I’ve learned is if the car won’t start because of a whacked out TPS, you can unplug the sensor. This will read as 0% TPS Position and allow it to start.

  2. #12

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    Just wanted to add/bump this thread. My MTE-Thompson TPS that came with my Sniper EFI kit is jumping between 0% & 23% after an engine bay clean/light hosing down of the valve covers. The OEM one would always read at 1% or 2% after a few minutes of run time and I was never able to get the idle down below 650, which I suspect is partly due to this condition. This is definitely a weak area on these EFI carbs. I've ordered the Standard Motor Products TH191, hopefully this one is a better unit than the OEM. I see that these units can be clocked when installing, and I see too that the Sniper sets zero at every startup. Is there a preferred position for the TPS when installing? I've read through the documentation don't see any specifics.

  3. #13
    Join Date
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    Read first paragraph below:

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    The Sniper EFI doesn't have the same TPS Autoset function as the Terminator, HP & Dominator ECUs. The Sniper EFI calibrates the TPS sensor
    at every key-on event. If replacing the TPS, the TPS sensor is located at the end of the primary throttle shaft, opposite end of the throttle lever.
    It's slotted, so install it in the same position. Holley 543-111 TPS or Standard Motor Products TH191 TPS.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....=2760#post2760 (Replacement Sensors For Holley EFI - Auto Parts Store)

    Sniper EFI Idle Setting/Throttle Blade Setting (Holley Sniper EFI Quick Start Manual):
    Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard.
    To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. With the vehicle in neutral,
    adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 & 10%. While adjusting the idle speed screw, if the
    TPS Position begins to read higher than 0%, cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero.
    This explains the idle speed screw/IAC Position % relationship that must be properly set for idle control.
    NOTE: Do not attempt to set the Target Idle Speed and IAC Position until the engine is above 160°F!
    http://documents.holley.com/199r11193.pdf (Holley Sniper EFI Quick Start Manual - "Idle Setting/Throttle Plate Setting", Page 12)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...-Idle-Solution! (Sniper EFI High Idle Thread)

    * Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting *
    Sometimes the throttle blades are so far off adjustment, turning the idle speed screw triggers the IAC Hold Position.
    If this happens, the throttle blades will require a baseline setting without the IAC valve altering this adjustment.
    This must be accomplished with the engine at hot idle. Be careful of dangerous fan and belt driven components.
    With the air filter previously removed, block off the IAC air inlet port with your finger or a strong piece of tape.
    While temporarily ignoring the IAC Position, adjust the idle speed screw to the Target Idle Speed RPM (in Idle ICF).
    Turn engine off (remove tape). With the key-on/engine-off, perform a TPS Autoset. Cycle key off & restart engine.
    Now only a minute adjustment will be required to achieve an IAC Position of about 5%. Perform a final TPS Autoset.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info (General IAC Information - Read "IAC NOTES")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. #14

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    Thanks Danny, but that's exactly what I was referring too. Even my apparently water damaged one, which has the marks where the screws were holding it in position doesn't read at zero when I power on the Sniper. However, I can loosen the nuts and rotate the TPS until it DOES read zero. Then, when I power it off/on I get a new reading. I realize that mine is questionable now (which is why I'm replacing it), but it take about a minute after startup for it to start jumping between various values (today it went to 23 a few times then settled down to jumping between 1, 2 & 4%. So I think my question stands. At first glance the original TPS had the connector pointing straight up. I can use that as a baseline for when I put in the new one, but what if the reading is not zero? Do I clock it till it is at zero. Simply shutting down the car and powering it back on does not seem to want to set the TPS value to zero.

  5. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetsulo View Post
    Thanks Danny, but that's exactly what I was referring too. Even my apparently water damaged one, which has the marks where the screws were holding it in position doesn't read at zero when I power on the Sniper. However, I can loosen the nuts and rotate the TPS until it DOES read zero. Then, when I power it off/on I get a new reading. I realize that mine is questionable now (which is why I'm replacing it), but it take about a minute after startup for it to start jumping between various values (today it went to 23 a few times then settled down to jumping between 1, 2 & 4%.
    Correct, your TPS has failed in typical fashion. The Sniper EFI is supposed to calibrate the TPS sensor at every key-on event.

    So I think my question stands.
    No, your TPS is still failed and needs to be replaced.

    At first glance the original TPS had the connector pointing straight up. I can use that as a baseline for when I put in the new one,...
    As I stated, "The TPS sensor is slotted, so install it in the same position."

    ...but what if the reading is not zero?
    The new TPS will display 0%, because the Sniper EFI calibrates the TPS sensor at every key-on event.

    Do I clock it till it is at zero? Simply shutting down the car and powering it back on does not seem to want to set the TPS value to zero.
    Correct, because your TPS has failed.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #16

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    Thanks again Danny. New TPS is arriving today and I'll be installing post haste tonight. I still don't think you are following me 100% though. Even when I installed the Sniper last year I could never get the TPS to read 0% and it was causing the IAC to kick in/high idle issues. It would settle at 1 or 2%. I performed a firmware update on the carb and it seemed to settle it down and let the idle work more consistently although just a hair high for my taste (I want a bit of a lumpy idle around 550) and the lowest I could get it to was about 650. I also have the Holley electronic distributor installed FWIW. I guess using your 'install in same position' logic and the carb 'sets zero at startup logic' then I could install the thing clocked in any given direction and whatever value the TPS starts sending the carb is then considered '0' on every power cycle of the carb. In short, I'll follow the directions I already read, but if I get anything other than a 0 reading when the new one is plugged in I'll be back. I do get a zero reading when the TPS is unplugged so the issue is not in the ECU, which is a good thing.

    I also want to add that this carb made a significant improvement to the drive and go aspect of my vehicle and is making much more power than the old 650 double pumper that was on it before and am pleased with the investment in both the carb and the digital ignition. If I could have a wishlist of items I wish the distributor spark order (physical location of plug wire connectors) was remappable to make the cleanest shortest cable install possible and I wish that the relay outputs on the Sniper were programmable as conditional relays. I want to add electric power steering to my ride and I would love to have it apply power to the electric power steering pump once the engine is out of the stalled condition. I know that higher end units probably have the functionality, but the compactness/all in one nature of the Sniper is what won out in my cramped engine bay.
    Last edited by tetsulo; 05-30-2019 at 11:12 AM.

  7. #17
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    I stopped reading when the Sniper TBI unit was called a "carb".
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #18

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    My phone kept auto-correcting EFI, so it was easier to say carb. Sorry if I offended you. I've been polite and thanked you for your input even when I feel like you haven't understood what I'm asking and insinuated that I didn't read the manual. Dunno if you work for Holley or not, but as an admin of the forum and talking to someone who has spent thousands of dollars on Holley stuff, and has taken the time to add positive feedback both online and in person with folks, I've gotta say in my opinion you aren't representing very well.

    For anyone else reading this thread - replacement TPS worked on the Sniper EFI carburetor replacement (better there Danny?) just fine and sets to 0 unlike the original one. Don't even think about water near them as the TPS sensor seems fragile. Next time I want to clean out the engine bay I think I'm just going to remove it in advance. Cheers

  9. #19
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetsulo View Post
    ...replacement TPS worked on the Sniper EFI carburetor replacement (better there Danny?) just fine and sets to 0 unlike the original one.
    That's good news. Thanks for the update.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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