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Thread: New Guy here and still installing Terminator.

  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    No, the fuel pressure regulator can be mounted in any position.
    Thanks.

    Quick administrative question. For whatever reason, I'm not getting email notifications of replies to my posts on this thread. I've done the notifications and checked the correct email address, as well as my spam folder, but still not getting them.

  2. #32
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    The email notification function has never worked on this forum.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #33

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    Decided to get a fuel pressure sending unit, and while at it, I put a gauge that I can read directly on it. Came up with this. 1/8 NPT pipe "T" (1 male, 2 female). My only concern is fluctuations in the "T" due to having a mechanical gauge, even though it's got dampening glycerin in it. Any comments will be appreciated.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    In reference "no notifications": Thanks, I'll stop worrying about it!

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROFCIBC View Post
    Decided to get a fuel pressure sending unit, and while at it, I put a gauge that I can read directly on it.
    It's a fuel pressure transducer/sensor, not a sending unit. Use the transducer/sensor data, as opposed to the gauge. The gauge won't be as accurate (at various temperatures), but it's a good quick reference that pressure hasn't changed.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #35

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    True, us "old guys" remember the days where the "sending unit" was a tube that ran to the gauge, and required no electricity or wires!
    I put the mechanical gauge there, just so I could have something to check the fuel pressure with while the engine was running with me next to it.
    (Goes back to that "old guys" thing.) I had a similar gauge on the car when the carb was installed, except it wasn't glycerin filled and was hard to read.
    Got everything pretty much done, today is "first engine start" day! Did the calibration & setup work yesterday, everything went as planned.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROFCIBC View Post
    Got everything pretty much done, today is "first engine start" day! Did the calibration & setup work yesterday, everything went as planned.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This! (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read This!)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #37

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    Thanks, so much stuff there, makes my head sweat!

    Ran into a little hiccup that could have been avoided, had I read a little more closely the information about the red/white switched +12V ignition wire, and making sure it had power during "cranking". Alas, it did NOT. When I cranked the engine, the tuner screen went blank, and nothing happened in terms of the engine starting. Makes sense as I was basically turning off the EFI system when cranking. In the words of that pillar of intellect, Homer Simpson, DOH!

    So I had to find a +12V source that came on when the key is in "RUN", and stayed on when it's in "START". Fortunately for me, I have the FSM, and the wiring diagrams. Discovered an "Ignition 1" & "Ignition 2" wire in the steering column wiring harness from the ignition switch. Turns out "Ignition 2" stays "hot" when cranking, as opposed to the "ACC" connector I had used for the +12V ignition (red/white) wire of the EFI harness.

    So, now have to get a good solid connection with that wire to feed the EFI. Nobody said it was going to be a walk in the park job!

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROFCIBC View Post
    Ran into a little hiccup that could have been avoided, had I read a little more closely the information about the red/white switched +12V ignition wire, and making sure it had power during "cranking". Alas, it did NOT.
    I'm glad I posted that LINK in post #36 (the Switched +12V red/white wire note is in there). I'm glad you found & fixed that fairly quick.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #39

    Cool Making Progress

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    I'm glad I posted that LINK in post #36 (the Switched +12V red/white wire note is in there). I'm glad you found & fixed that fairly quick.
    Yeah, a blind sow will find an acorn, if she roots long enough! SUCCESS! Got it running, more or less.

    Had a bit of a time keeping it running long enough to get the temp to 160°F, so it could "learn". It would start, go up to 1200 RPM, then fall to where it stopped. Opened up the throttle screw 1/2 turn at a time, and each time the upper RPM went up, but still dropped to where it stopped. After two full turns of the throttle screw it finally kept running, but was fluctuating between 2000 and about 300 RPM. Not much fun, but at least it did get the engine warmed up. Might add I had swapped the stock distributor to a MSD Pro Billet, so the timing was not exact. If I had it to do over, I'd have kept the stock distributor until the EFI was installed, up & running before putting in the MSD unit.

    Anyhow, back to the EFI. Took some time before I started to notice the fluctuations were decreasing. Noticed the upper RPM was slowly coming down. Not much each time, but at least it was progress. The lower RPM was also moving slightly higher. After maybe 30 minutes it was pretty much stable, but a bit high, 1200 RPM. So then I started turning the throttle screw back in. Did the TPS Autoset each time, per the instructions, and eventually got it down to about 950 RPM. Still a little high, but by then I was ready to call it a day. Did a quick timing check and found it was off maybe 5°, so adjusted it. I'll refine it when I get back to the job. (Being retired I can shove a two day job into a month!)

    Going to "tidy up" some of the "temporary" wiring routing, and hopefully get it out on the road for some more "ECU Education 101"! Just glad to have the Beeper running again! So far no major problems, I.E. fuel leaks, or sensors not working. Seems like a pretty intuitive system, although there is a LOT more "stuff" than I'm used to, as I'm pretty much "old school". But hey, maybe it's time to come into the 20th century!

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROFCIBC View Post
    Might add I had swapped the stock distributor to a MSD Pro Billet, so the timing was not exact. If I had it to do over, I'd have kept the stock distributor until the EFI was installed, up & running before putting in the MSD unit.
    Which MSD part number distributor are you using? Is this an ECU controlled timing application? If not, simply ignore all timing related parameters (EFI software).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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