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Thread: Need Help!!! Holley HP Running Issues

  1. #31
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    What is the distance supposed to be, approximately?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Barker View Post
    What is the distance supposed to be, approximately?
    EDIT: I just researched it; the sensor gap is .030" or slightly less. Just skim a piece of metal across the sensor (barely touching), while recording a System Log.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    EDIT: I just researched it; the sensor gap is .030" or slightly less. Just skim a piece of metal across the sensor (barely touching), while recording a System Log.
    I will do this as soon as my ECU gets back. Thanks.

  4. #34
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    I got to thinking. These are not my pictures, but what my sensor does when installing it. Should I tap it the rest of the way in?

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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Barker View Post
    Should I tap it the rest of the way in?
    Yes, the mounting flange should seat flat (contact), before tightening the retaining bolt.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  6. #36
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    Got my ECU back yesterday. Ran about 30 system log tests. I got the cam sensor to read a piece of steel one time and could not repeat it. Also, if my cam sensor was installed, I would lose crank signal as well. But even when the cam sensor was out, and I tested it, the crank sensor was intermittent. I tested the cam plug during cranking, and it read 12.8V before, and 10.5V during. Also checked the ground with my voltmeter, and a clear beep and good ground before, and during cranking the beep became fuzzy, and the voltmeter started reading like negative 50.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Barker View Post
    Also, if my cam sensor was installed, I would lose crank signal as well. But even when the cam sensor was out, and I tested it, the crank sensor was intermittent.
    Also checked the ground with my voltmeter, and a clear beep and good ground before, and during cranking the beep became fuzzy, and the voltmeter started reading like negative 50.
    These statements seem like a clue. You may want to try the System Log again, while substituting +12V & ground to the LS1 sensors.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    These statements seem like a clue. You may want to try the System Log again, while substituting +12V & ground to the LS1 sensors.
    How do I substitute power & ground to the sensors?

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Barker View Post
    How do I substitute power & ground to the sensors?
    Temporarily disconnect the wire terminal (from either the LS1 sensor connectors, or the ECU P1A/P1B harness connectors - see post #17), and attach the appropriate wires to a 'known good' +12V & ground. This does not involve cutting any wires, but it does require sensor & harness connector knowledge (terminal removal & installation).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  10. #40
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    Sounds simple enough. I will give it a shot after work. Thanks buddy, I really appreciate all the help & info, and letting me pick your brain. LOL!

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