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Thread: 1st Gen Pro-Jection problems

  1. #1
    Colotow Guest

    Default 1st Gen Pro-Jection problems

    I have an old system, bought and installed it in Oct, 92. it worked great for years, then I had an injector go bad. The new injectors are part # 522-26. I have not been able to get it to tune since I put them in, runs way too rich. Did I get the wrong injectors?

    I have the 670 CFM 2 BBL system, I think it is part #502-2, with the Holley intake and closed loop kit added on to it.

    What parts are still available? I will probably also be needing to clean and replace the gaskets on the pressure regulator.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    22,685

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    Quote Originally Posted by Colotow View Post
    What parts are still available? I will probably also be needing to clean and replace the gaskets on the pressure regulator.
    http://www.holley.com/types/Throttle...ce%20Parts.asp (service parts)
    http://www.holley.com/types/Commande...ce%20Parts.asp (more parts)
    http://www.holley.com/502-20S.asp (complete system)
    http://www.holley.com/512-1.asp (fuel pressure regulator service kit)

    Verify the fuel pressure hasn't changed. Did you increase the pressure to 21 psi when installing the new style injectors?
    (The spec used to be 15 psi with the old style injectors.) If so, this may be the cause of your overly rich condition.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3
    Buickguy Guest

    Default

    If you are using injector P/N 522-26 then those are still the old B2 style injectors. They will still run at the same 15 psi fuel pressure as the originals. Check the fuel pressure on both the inlet and return line. You should have 12-15 in the inlet side and no more than 5 psi on the return. If you have more than 5 on the return you need to check for a blockage going back to the tank.
    You can check the temp sensor as well fairly easy. If the fuel pressure is fine and the engine still runs rich unplug the temp sensor and ground the brown wire. See if the engine runs leaner. This tricks the ECU into thinking the engine is at 200 degrees and leans the fuel mixture down. It does the opposite if you just unplug the sensor. With the brown wire unplugged it makes the ECU think it is -20 degrees and richens the mixture. If it leans the engine with the wire grounded it could be a faulty temp sensor.
    Of course check all of the other things like grounds, timing, and plug temperature.
    Hope this helps, Thanks

  4. #4
    Colotow Guest

    Default

    Thanks for the help. Good possibility the fuel pressure is up around 20 psi. I replaced the TPS once, the unit is on the bench right now, I'll ohm check it, see how smooth it looks before I put it back on, and check the temp sensor.

    So, if I do need parts, it's possible to upgrade/convert to a newer style injector? And, are there any upgrades to the programming in the older style controller? One thing I noticed, the instructions talked about either grounding or powering the pink wire to switch fuel maps, I'm reasonably sure mine is an older unit than that.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colotow View Post
    So, if I do need parts, it's possible to upgrade/convert to a newer style injector?
    Yes, you can with the 4bbl TBIs & the 2bbl TBIs, but you also need to upgrade to the new style injector pod
    (injector bore housing) and injector harness; which is really more money than its worth (in my opinion).
    Last edited by Danny Cabral; 03-12-2010 at 01:53 PM.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #6
    Buickguy Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Colotow View Post
    Thanks for the help. Good possibility the fuel pressure is up around 20 psi. I replaced the TPS once, the unit is on the bench right now, I'll ohm check it, see how smooth it looks before I put it back on, and check the temp sensor.

    So, if I do need parts, it's possible to upgrade/convert to a newer style injector? And, are there any upgrades to the programming in the older style controller? One thing I noticed, the instructions talked about either grounding or powering the pink wire to switch fuel maps, I'm reasonably sure mine is an older unit than that.
    If this is the very first design analog ECU made for Holley by MSD (was rectangular in shape and had heat sink fins on the top of the box) then I do believe they had a different ECU for either small block or big block kits..... My memory is a little fuzzy since it has been many years since those were offered

    If you have the second generation Analog system (rectangular smooth box with no heat sink fins on top) you would hook the pink wire to ground to select from small block operation (360 cu inches or less). The pink wire would need to be hooked to a 12 volt switched source to set it for a big block application (larger that 360 cu. inches). Danny is correct on the new style injectors and injector pod. The 2D ecu currently used is a direct replacement for the older analog system. You can get it from any Holley dealer under P/N 534-55. You will also need an adapter harness to hook the digital ECU to your old style main harness. The P/N for the adapter harness is 534-23. Thanks, hope this helps.

  7. #7
    Colotow Guest

    Default

    OK, I need a little more help.
    Checked the temp sensor, it's perfect from ice water to boiling.
    Opened the ECU end cover, and checked, I am set in the small block setting.
    Replaced the TPS, it was flaky, checked the fuel pressure and return pressure, I'm ok there.

    Got it running, it's not overheating like it was before, but it's way rich, I have the TPS adjusted all the way to the stops lean, and all the knobs, idle, midrange, and power are turned all the way down lean. It's running better, but still too rich. I backed the fuel pressure down a little more, didn't help much if at all.

    It is 18 years old, starting to wonder if the ECU has gone bad, there's not much else left. Can it be mailed in and checked? If so, how much? I know it's old tech now, but when it worked right, it was great, and if I can get it to work for a few more years for less than going back to a carb or buying a new, and much more expensive kit, I'd like to run it a bit longer.

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