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Thread: New Member. Some questions please.

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    Thanks Danny. I'll get my head around it all. I think I can probably can machine off the front of the balancer by the same amount of the trigger wheel thickness, so I can run the trigger wheel on the front. I thought after reading your write-up, that I would need a 60-2 wheel, not a 36-1?

    • Holley's waste-spark DIS system gets its signal from the two missing teeth on the 60-2 trigger wheel.
    It's "waste-spark" because the two missing teeth send the TDC signal every time #1 cylinder is up (near TDC of compression stroke and near TDC of exhaust stroke). It doesn't know when the #1 cylinder is ONLY on the compression stroke, hence the need for a cam sync sensor for sequential use. If you don't need or want sequential injection, then you just need an oil pump drive plug. In other words, the two missing teeth (60-2 trigger wheel) are only for DIS ignition and the cam sync sensor is only for sequential fuel injection. If you're not using the 60-2 crank trigger with Holley's DIS, then a cam sync sensor must be used (sequentially injected or not).

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I thought after reading your write-up, that I would need a 60-2 wheel, not a 36-1?
    No. You need a missing teeth type crank trigger kit (12-1, 24-1, 36-1, 60-2, etc.) or a 4x MSD Flying Magnet type crank trigger kit with a 1x cam sync unit.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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    I'm trying to cleanup some of my wiring. I wanted to run a relay for the Switched +12V positive from the ignition key, rather than have spliced wires. So I thought I could just run a relay using the ignition wire as a trigger to the relay, but I must be getting feed back as it won't turn off. Engine keeps running after the key is turned off. Do I need a special relay or diode? Seem to have 5 volts at the trigger wire when I turn off the ignition key, engine still running. Cheers.

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I'm trying to cleanup some of my wiring. I wanted to run a relay for the Switched +12V positive from the ignition key, rather than have spliced wires.
    There's still a spliced ignition switch wire connected to your additional relay. Just connect that wire directly to the Switched +12V red/white wire. Easy & simple.

    So I thought I could just run a relay using the ignition wire as a trigger to the relay, but I must be getting feed back as it won't turn off. Engine keeps running after the key is turned off. Do I need a special relay or diode?
    Yes, try a diode protected relay. But adding an unnecessary relay doesn't cleanup your wiring.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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    Thanks Danny. It will cleanup the wiring in my case when your trying to add more stuff that needs keyed ignition power like stereo/GPS/TACH/H.E.I distributor, etc. Also takes the load off the the ignition switch which was the main reason behind my thoughts. I will try the diode protected relay, but I have just run the spliced ignition wire to a buss bar so I can have multiple pickup points for now.

    I was also having problems with my aftermarket tachometer reading incorrect above 2000 RPM. It's a stepped motor type. I had it picking up from the H.E.I large cap tach out wire, but it wouldn't read correct above 2K, so I changed to the ignition plug on the Holley harness A28 blue/white wire, works great now spot on. Hope that's OK to do so? Cheers.

    Video of the tachometer reading incorrectly: http://s1264.photobucket.com/user/kn.../library/Tacho
    Last edited by knightrider; 09-25-2016 at 03:40 AM.

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    ...so I changed to the ignition plug on the Holley harness A28 blue/white wire, works great now spot on. Hope that's OK to do so?
    Yes. http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7583#post47583 (Tachometer Signal Information)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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    Looking to upgrade to the 7" Digital Dash. What's the difference between part #553-106 & #553-109? Does the 553-109 just have more sensors included? Also, will I be able tune with the 7" Digital Dash the same as I can with the handheld controller? Would seem silly to have to use the handheld if I have the Digital Dash. Is there any newer models coming I should wait for, like full width screen with no borders around the screen? Cheers.

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    Looking to upgrade to the 7" Digital Dash. What's the difference between part #553-106 & #553-109? Does the 553-109 just have more sensors included?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ith-Holley-EFI (Similar Forum Thread)

    Is there any newer models coming I should wait for, like full width screen with no borders around the screen?
    No.

    Also, will I be able tune with the 7" Digital Dash the same as I can with the handheld controller? Would seem silly to have to use the handheld if I have the Digital Dash.
    I'm currently field testing the latest Digital Dash tuning software/firmware. It actually has more tuning parameters than the 3.5" TSLCD unit. It's supposed to be available in October.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan W. @ Holley EFI
    We finished up the production release last week and uploaded the newest firmware to the site today. The major revisions are listed below.

    V4 ECU Configuration/Tuning
    - ECU tuning functionality has been added allowing the user to modify parameters of an
    attached ECU. Refer to the user manual for more details.
    Gauge Averaging
    - Monitored data can now be averaged (e.g., fuel gauge)
    Button inputs
    - Under Dash Configuration, the Local I/O channel name for the SW to GND type can be
    set to [left], [right], [up], [down], or [ok] to emulate those functions on the main dashboard
    screen.
    External mouse
    - If an USB mouse is plugged in, the mouse pointer is automatically hidden after 10
    seconds.
    Odometer
    - An odometer channel has been added to the list of channels. Before using, please set
    the Speed/Odometer source under the Dash Configuration/Vehicle tab.
    Security lockout
    - Various editing features can be password-protected, see user manual for more details.
    Main Menu
    - The main menu layout has changed to accommodate new features
    __________________
    Ryan W.
    Holley EFI
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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    Thought I would update this thread, as it's getting close to a year now since I've had mine up & running. All going great now, touch wood. I have made some changes to my car which have improved the whole overall running, starting & driveability of the car. Changed my AOD converter to 2800 stall non-lockup. Engine is much happier now, gear shifts are very smooth as well. I can also run a slightly higher idle speed and more timing with the converter.

    Fitted a 16V voltage booster to power the H.E.I distributor also iridium spark plugs has help with fuel fouling, and if they do foul it will clean up easy with a drive. (I have to move my car in & out each day at work, so by the end of the week it needs a good run.)

    I don't have a working fuel gauge, so I fill up every time I drive the car. On the highway driving I get about 150K to 24 liters, not sure how that works out in MPG, but it's pretty damn good for a big heavy Ford Fairlane with a 393" stroker 3.89 rear end. Now I just need my 7" Digital Dash, Holley's dual sync distributor and CNP smart coils.

    I haven't had to get anyone to laptop tune the car. I would like to at some stage, but worried about it getting screwed up. It's running so well now anyway. Starts first turn of the key, idles without touching the throttle still needs to be warmed up before driving. Cheers & thanks to Danny for your help over the past year. I'm sure I will need more help along the way.

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    Hi, looking to get a spare WBO2 sensor. Which one should I get, the NTK or Bosch. I have the Bosch now, but is the NTK better? The NTK $400.00 AU here. Cheers.

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