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  1. #1

    Default New Member. Some questions please.

    Hi Everyone. I'm installing the Terminator 550-405. Couple of questions & suggestions.
    First install seems easy so far. The only drama was making the wiring hardness neat. Suggestion: The overly large relay should not be prewired, or should have longer wires, so you can fit it in a more appropriate location. Also, I based ECU location on the belief that the handheld controller plugged into the ECU, which it doesn't. The only other suggestion is that not everyone has Chevys. Some Ford throttle cable brackets would be nice.
    Questions: Is there a wiring diagram for the A/C IAC Kick off, or is it just a relay setup using the gray-yellow wire as the trigger for a relay?
    Also, the fan output. I'm using a standard 30A relay. Are the output wires supplying a negative or positive output and does it make any difference anyway? I tested the relay and it works with negative or positive trigger?
    I'm running an aftermarket HEI for a Cleveland engine. It only has a 12 volt supply and tach out signal. Is this connected to the yellow wire?
    I was going to use a fuel pump relay as well, for my fuel pump. I have a Bosch 044 which draws 15.5 amps. Do you think I need to worry about a relay or not?
    Being that I didn't receive an email when I registered, will I receive an email when someone replies to this thread?
    Thanks. Hoping for good results with this kit.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,083

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    Questions: Is there a wiring diagram for the A/C IAC Kick off, or is it just a relay setup using the gray-yellow wire as the trigger for a relay?
    If you're referring to the "A/C Shutdown", it triggers a relay with +12V:
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10653rev9.pdf (Terminator EFI Manual - Page 19 & 20)

    Also, the fan output. I'm using a standard 30A relay. Are the output wires supplying a negative or positive output and does it make any difference anyway? I tested the relay and it works with negative or positive trigger?
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10653rev9.pdf (Terminator EFI Manual - Page 19)

    I'm running an aftermarket HEI for a Cleveland engine. It only has a 12 volt supply and tach out signal. Is this connected to the yellow wire?
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10653rev9.pdf (Terminator EFI Manual - Section 13, Page 14)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....4913#post44913 (Ignition Wiring Info - Read This!)

    I was going to use a fuel pump relay as well, for my fuel pump. I have a Bosch 044 which draws 15.5 amps. Do you think I need to worry about a relay or not?
    I've never used the ECU's fuel pump trigger wire to directly power the pump (even if it is less than 10 amps).
    I've always used a separate relay (shown below) because that green wire is still only 14 AWG.
    The 2nd fuel pump relay is used so the fuel injectors aren't subjected to the pump's amp draw.
    It's only a 20 amp fuse and it also feeds power to the fuel injectors (& ignition coils - LSx, MOD & HEMI).
    I prefer to use 10 gauge wire due to its long length, especially for high output race pumps.
    You'd simply use the green fuel pump wire to trigger your additional fuel pump relay.
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-753 (Holley 12-753 Fuel Pump Relay Kit)
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10059.pdf
    (Holley 12-753 Fuel Pump Relay Kit Instructions)
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...arts/30-199QFT (Quick Fuel 30-199QFT Fuel Pump Relay Kit)
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/40100G (Mr. Gasket 40100G Sealed Relay Kit)
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5593pt/overview/ (Pico Wiring 5593PT Sealed Relay Kit)
    Delphi Metri-Pack 630 Pull-To-Seat female terminals for retrofitting to a sealed relay socket connector:
    #12033997 10/12 AWG (3.0 mm²), #12066614 14/16 AWG (2.0-1.0 mm²), #12020156 18/20 AWG (0.80-0.50 mm²)

    Being that I didn't receive an email when I registered, will I receive an email when someone replies to this thread?
    The email notification function doesn't work on this forum. Everyone is currently registered.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks. Heaps for the quick reply, wasn't accepting that.

    I've read the manual and watch every video I can. Was just making sure I had read it correctly.

    I was a little concerned about the HEI mainly, as I bench tested it first and it has +12V positive coming out of the tach signal. Should I fuse this wire? Cheers.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I'm running an aftermarket HEI for a Cleveland engine. It only has a 12 volt supply and tach out signal.
    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I was a little concerned about the HEI mainly, as I bench tested it first and it has +12V positive coming out of the tach signal. Should I fuse this wire?
    I don't think the TACH out signal is ever fused. Contact the aftermarket HEI manufacturer for their requirements.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Had the first startup today, all went great. Only drama, thermostatic fans aren't coming on. Here's a link to the first startup:
    http://s1264.photobucket.com/user/kn...ngine%20fit-up

  6. #6

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    OK so it's running. Just I have fouled two set of plugs now. Running super fat at idle (black smoke) idles slows & cuts out. Hard to restart, have to open throttle. It runs OK with new plugs, but very rich and runs bad as the plugs foul. I have turned the idle screw up, so the TPS is at 2% than reset the TPS. Thinking the WBO2 sensor may be fouled as well. The engine is 393" Cleveland, Comp Cam 291, THR7 235° @ .050" hydraulic roller Thumpr. What do I do next? Cheers.

  7. #7

    Default

    Hi Danny. Ran the engine again, going a little better, still cutting out, slow idle. The IAC Position is always at 30%. Shouldn't it go to 100% if the engine is going to stall, to try and maintain the correct idle speed? Idle drops as low as 500 rpm, IAC still at only 30%. Target idle is 900 rpm. Cheers.

    Sent from phone, forgot that did TPS AutoSet again, it's now working still idling slow, rich & stalls, but the IAC did go to 100% to try to keep the idle. Starting to frustrate me now. Cheers.

    Hi Danny. Can you tell me if I adjust the idle screw multiple times, and reset the TPS each time, so it reads 0%, how do you know where the throttle is in relation to factory settings? Cheers.
    Last edited by knightrider; 01-05-2016 at 09:07 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,083

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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    Sent from phone, forgot that did TPS AutoSet again, it's now working still idling slow, rich & stalls, but the IAC did go to 100% to try to keep the idle.
    That's because the idle TPS Position wasn't at 0%, hence activating the IAC Hold Position.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....8315#post48315 (Additional Information)

    Can you tell me if I adjust the idle screw multiple times, and reset the TPS each time, so it reads 0%, how do you know where the throttle is in relation to factory settings?
    No, but it doesn't matter, because after installation, it will be a different setting for every engine.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info (IAC Information)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #9

    Default

    Hi Danny. I'm being asked to upgrade from firmware 00000587 to 00001589. Do I need to do this, as I don't have internet access? Also, said it was setup as Holley HP is this correct? Cheers.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,083

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I'm being asked to upgrade from firmware 00000587 to 00001589. Do I need to do this, as I don't have internet access?
    It should not be necessary, because most of those improvements were for LSx applications. See for yourself in this LINK.

    Also, said it was setup as Holley HP is this correct?
    Yes, the Terminator EFI is an HP EFI system, when a USB cable is connected for tuning purposes.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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