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Thread: New Member. Some questions please.

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    Thanks again. I've actually backed the Cranking Timing back to 10°. I'm also trying the Inductive Delay at 50 usec and reset the distributor to match what's on the screen. I'll do some more testing with it, but it's all going pretty good.

    Just out of interest, I can't see a way to choose which cylinder is no #1 on the cap as it has to be where the pickup lines up. Is that correct? Not wanting to move the body of the distributor only the rotor. Cheers.

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I'm also trying the Inductive Delay at 50 usec and reset the distributor to match what's on the screen.
    The Inductive delay is not a trial thing (as in a road test). It's a simple setting, then it's never adjusted again.
    Inductive Delay ― "100.0 usec" ( Synchronization info, adjusted per application.)

    Just out of interest, I can't see a way to choose which cylinder is no #1 on the cap as it has to be where the pickup lines up. Is that correct?
    There is no #1 cylinder identification. Please refer to the Holley Dual Sync Distributor installation instructions & video in post #144 above.

    Not wanting to move the body of the distributor only the rotor. Cheers.
    That's an Ignition Reference Angle thing.
    Holley Dual Sync Distributor Ignition Reference Angle ― "50°" ( Inherent rotor-phasing of this unit.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. Default

    Some questions about timing values in the table I'm seeing on the laptop. When setting the handheld controller I might have WOT timing set a say 30°, but looking in the timing table I see values as high as 34 at WOT MAP from 91-105 kPa. My first thought was is I have the set the coolant modifier to add timing below a set temp so maybe it shows that, but I cleared all that back to zero. So not sure why I'm seeing higher values other than what's in the table, a bend of the cruise timing along with WOT & idle?

    Also had it run on a dyno for the first. I'm running in Open Loop and Learn turned off at the moment because I've had another WBO2 sensor fail. My base tune is pretty good and thought I'd get the AFR checked to see where it's at. It's running around 12:1 at WOT in Open Loop which is pretty close. I have it set to 12.5:1. Here's video of it in the dyno. It's just a in car shoot, but sounds strong: https://youtu.be/2anErJxjQ4w. I'd really like to understand why I need to keep replacing WBO2 sensors. It's only the second one, but how long should one get out if these, I'm just using the Bosch unit? Cheers.

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    Some questions about timing values in the table I'm seeing on the laptop. When setting the handheld controller I might have WOT timing set a say 30°, but looking in the timing table I see values as high as 34 at WOT MAP from 91-105 kPa. My first thought was is I have the set the coolant modifier to add timing below a set temp so maybe it shows that, but I cleared all that back to zero. So not sure why I'm seeing higher values other than what's in the table, a bend of the cruise timing along with WOT & idle?
    Forget the 3.5" TSLCD Idle, Cruise & WOT settings. The Base Timing Table programming in the Holley EFI software has precedence.

    Also had it run on a dyno for the first. I'm running in Open Loop and Learn turned off at the moment because I've had another WBO2 sensor fail. My base tune is pretty good and thought I'd get the AFR checked to see where it's at. It's running around 12:1 at WOT in Open Loop which is pretty close. I have it set to 12.5:1. Here's video of it in the dyno. It's just a in car shoot, but sounds strong: https://youtu.be/2anErJxjQ4w. I'd really like to understand why I need to keep replacing WBO2 sensors. It's only the second one, but how long should one get out if these, I'm just using the Bosch unit?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ension-Harness (WBO2 Sensor Information - Read 5th & 6th paragraphs under "Wideband O2 Sensor Notes".)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. Default

    Thanks. I'll just use the Holley EFI software to set the timing which is what I've been doing, but was just curious to the difference.

    As for the WBO2 sensor, thanks for the link and you've told me this before about the extension bung. What would be considered a good run out of a WBO2 sensor using this setup? Cheers and thanks again.

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    Thanks. I'll just use the Holley EFI software to set the timing which is what I've been doing, but was just curious to the difference.
    The 3.5" TSLCD Idle, Cruise & WOT settings are a "blended" representation. The Base Timing Table is the real deal (accurate timing at every RPM & MAP kPa cell).

    As for the WBO2 sensor, thanks for the link and you've told me this before about the extension bung. What would be considered a good run out of a WBO2 sensor using this setup?
    I have years of service on my dual NTK WBO2 sensors.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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