Page 1 of 14 12311 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 133

Thread: New Member. Some questions please.

  1. #1

    Default New Member. Some questions please.

    Hi Everyone. I'm installing the Terminator 550-405. Couple of questions & suggestions.
    First install seems easy so far. The only drama was making the wiring hardness neat. Suggestion: The overly large relay should not be prewired, or should have longer wires, so you can fit it in a more appropriate location. Also, I based ECU location on the belief that the handheld controller plugged into the ECU, which it doesn't. The only other suggestion is that not everyone has Chevys. Some Ford throttle cable brackets would be nice.
    Questions: Is there a wiring diagram for the A/C IAC Kick off, or is it just a relay setup using the gray-yellow wire as the trigger for a relay?
    Also, the fan output. I'm using a standard 30A relay. Are the output wires supplying a negative or positive output and does it make any difference anyway? I tested the relay and it works with negative or positive trigger?
    I'm running an aftermarket HEI for a Cleveland engine. It only has a 12 volt supply and tach out signal. Is this connected to the yellow wire?
    I was going to use a fuel pump relay as well, for my fuel pump. I have a Bosch 044 which draws 15.5 amps. Do you think I need to worry about a relay or not?
    Being that I didn't receive an email when I registered, will I receive an email when someone replies to this thread?
    Thanks. Hoping for good results with this kit.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,693

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    Questions: Is there a wiring diagram for the A/C IAC Kick off, or is it just a relay setup using the gray-yellow wire as the trigger for a relay?
    If you're referring to the "A/C Shutdown", it triggers a relay with +12V:
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10653rev9.pdf (Terminator EFI Manual - Page 19 & 20)

    Also, the fan output. I'm using a standard 30A relay. Are the output wires supplying a negative or positive output and does it make any difference anyway? I tested the relay and it works with negative or positive trigger?
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10653rev9.pdf (Terminator EFI Manual - Page 19)

    I'm running an aftermarket HEI for a Cleveland engine. It only has a 12 volt supply and tach out signal. Is this connected to the yellow wire?
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10653rev9.pdf (Terminator EFI Manual - Section 13, Page 14)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....4913#post44913 (Ignition Wiring Info - Read This!)

    I was going to use a fuel pump relay as well, for my fuel pump. I have a Bosch 044 which draws 15.5 amps. Do you think I need to worry about a relay or not?
    I've never used the ECU's fuel pump trigger wire to directly power the pump (even if it is less than 10 amps).
    I've always used a separate relay (shown below) because that green wire is still only 14 AWG.
    The 2nd fuel pump relay is used so the fuel injectors aren't subjected to the pump's amp draw.
    It's only a 20 amp fuse and it also feeds power to the fuel injectors (& ignition coils - LSx, MOD & HEMI).
    I prefer to use 10 gauge wire due to its long length, especially for high output race pumps.
    You'd simply use the green fuel pump wire to trigger your additional fuel pump relay.
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-753 (Holley 12-753 Fuel Pump Relay Kit)
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10059.pdf
    (Holley 12-753 Fuel Pump Relay Kit Instructions)
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...arts/30-199QFT (Quick Fuel 30-199QFT Fuel Pump Relay Kit)
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/40100G (Mr. Gasket 40100G Sealed Relay Kit)
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5593pt/overview/ (Pico Wiring 5593PT Sealed Relay Kit)
    Delphi Metri-Pack 630 Pull-To-Seat female terminals for retrofitting to a sealed relay socket connector:
    #12033997 10/12 AWG (3.0 mm²), #12066614 14/16 AWG (2.0-1.0 mm²), #12020156 18/20 AWG (0.80-0.50 mm²)

    Being that I didn't receive an email when I registered, will I receive an email when someone replies to this thread?
    The email notification function doesn't work on this forum. Everyone is currently registered.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks. Heaps for the quick reply, wasn't accepting that.

    I've read the manual and watch every video I can. Was just making sure I had read it correctly.

    I was a little concerned about the HEI mainly, as I bench tested it first and it has +12V positive coming out of the tach signal. Should I fuse this wire? Cheers.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,693

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I'm running an aftermarket HEI for a Cleveland engine. It only has a 12 volt supply and tach out signal.
    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I was a little concerned about the HEI mainly, as I bench tested it first and it has +12V positive coming out of the tach signal. Should I fuse this wire?
    I don't think the TACH out signal is ever fused. Contact the aftermarket HEI manufacturer for their requirements.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Had the first startup today, all went great. Only drama, thermostatic fans aren't coming on. Here's a link to the first startup:
    http://s1264.photobucket.com/user/kn...ngine%20fit-up

  6. #6

    Default

    OK so it's running. Just I have fouled two set of plugs now. Running super fat at idle (black smoke) idles slows & cuts out. Hard to restart, have to open throttle. It runs OK with new plugs, but very rich and runs bad as the plugs foul. I have turned the idle screw up, so the TPS is at 2% than reset the TPS. Thinking the WBO2 sensor may be fouled as well. The engine is 393" Cleveland, Comp Cam 291, THR7 235° @ .050" hydraulic roller Thumpr. What do I do next? Cheers.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,693

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    Just I have fouled two set of plugs now. Running super fat at idle (black smoke) idles slows & cuts out. Hard to restart, have to open throttle. It runs OK with new plugs, but very rich and runs bad as the plugs foul.
    Is the EFI system in Closed Loop? What happens with the A/F Ratio? Is the EFI system Learning (self-tuning), when it reaches operating temperature? Do the Learn Table values look like they've been corrupted from a defective WBO2 sensor? Is your ignition timing synchronized (Link)?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This! (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read This!)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #8

    Default

    Yes, it appears to be in Closed Loop. I don't get to run it long, before it starts to foul the plugs. What I do notice is, if I manage to hold the revs at 3500 rpm to try & clear the plugs and some fuel, it will clear and then the ECU adds fuel, and it floods & slows. I will need to check some more things first, and try to get a longer run in to do some checks. Is there a way to clean the WBO2 sensor without damaging it? The ECU isn't controlling timing; is this what you mean by synchronize the timing? I have set the timing to 15° BTDC. Running large cap HEI yellow wire to tach out. Cheers.
    Last edited by knightrider; 01-05-2016 at 03:06 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,693

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by knightrider View Post
    I don't get to run it long, before it starts to foul the plugs. What I do notice is, if I manage to hold the revs at 3500 rpm to try & clear the plugs and some fuel, it will clear and then the ECU adds fuel, and it floods & slows.
    Which base calibration did you use to create your Global Folder? This seems like you started with a base calibration that's too rich. If it's too rich (won't idle long enough to enter Learn mode - 160°F), try the next larger base calibration. It's leaner in the idle & lower regions of the Base Fuel Table, but enriched at high load & WOT. If you compare the Base Fuel Tables in the various base calibrations, you'll see what I mean.

    Is there a way to clean the WBO2 sensor without damaging it?
    No, I wouldn't attempt it.

    The ECU isn't controlling timing; is this what you mean by synchronize the timing?
    Yes.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. Default

    Thanks Danny. I was reading that you recommend hooking the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum. Is this correct for non-ECU control timing? I thought vacuum advance was for cruise only, for better fuel economy. Could running full vacuum at idle cause the engine to run on when switched off? Cheers.

Page 1 of 14 12311 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us