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Thread: Wiring Holley 558-306 Crank/Cam Sensor Harness

  1. #11

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    Danny, I was reading this thread (Link). It referred to using pin B20 for the cam/crank harness in this thread:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7990#post47990
    Do I need to do anything different than what I was already going to do with my harness? My base kit is the 550-606N.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by strtcar View Post
    Do I need to do anything different than what I was already going to do with my harness?
    No, the pin B20 modification (Link) doesn't change how you build your crank/cam sensor harness.
    The pin B20 modification is performed at the ECU end of the main harness (not the sensor end).

    My base kit is the 550-606N.
    Yes, the pin B20 modification (Link) would apply to this main harness, if you decide to do it.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    No, the pin B20 modification (Link) doesn't change how you build your crank/cam sensor harness.
    The pin B20 modification is performed at the ECU end of the main harness (not the sensor end).

    Yes, the pin B20 modification (Link) would apply to this main harness, if you decide to do it.
    OK, harness is out of the car one last time to lengthen/shorten few sensors. Before I put it back in the car, is there a need to do the B20 modification, or leave the +12V at A10 like it is by default? I'd rather have to do the fix now, than when it's back in the car. From looking at the wiring, I don't see why it makes a difference but you know more.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by strtcar View Post
    Before I put it back in the car, is there a need to do the B20 modification, or leave the +12V at A10 like it is by default?
    Only you can answer that question. Does the car start without immediately stalling, due to an RPM Error?

    From looking at the wiring, I don't see why it makes a difference, but you know more.
    Then you don't understand the purpose of the modification, or you didn't read this LINK thoroughly.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #15

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    Does this look right to you? I took apart the harness right by the loose +12V switch wire. There is a splice, on the end leading towards the engine side of the harness. Cut that, then route that end to B20, leave the splice going from ECU to Switched +12V intact, and still connect that to Switched +12V?


  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by strtcar View Post
    Cut that, then route that end to B20, leave the splice going from ECU to Switched +12V intact, and still connect that to Switched +12V?
    Yes, cut the wire leading to the Ignition connector (at the splice pictured), and connect it to P1B-B20. It's very simple (Link). Leave the other Switched +12V red/white wire connected to P1A-A10.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #17

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    Finally making the harness tonight. Holley only provided six Metri-Pack 280 connectors. I need seven; 2 sensors, 2 grounds, 2 shield, 1 shared power. Any recommendation on where to get one of these?
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by strtcar View Post
    Holley only provided six Metri-Pack 280 connectors.
    Which Holley EFI harness connector has a Metri-Pack 280 connector? Did you mean Metri-Pack 150?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....als-Holley-EFI (Additional Information)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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