
Originally Posted by
strtcar
Before I put it back in the car, is there a need to do the B20 modification, or leave the +12V at A10 like it is by default?
Only you can answer that question. Does the car start without immediately stalling, due to an RPM Error?
From looking at the wiring, I don't see why it makes a difference, but you know more.
Then you don't understand the purpose of the modification, or you didn't read this LINK thoroughly.
May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.