Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: Pro-Jection 2D

  1. #1

    Default Pro-Jection 2D

    I recently installed a older model Pro-Jection 2D kit, second generation I believe. I've got it tuned pretty well, but after driving 5 or 6 miles, the engine will completely shut off. It happens sporadically. When it happens the RPM gauge seems to drop first. Not sure if I'm loosing a tach signal, or if I have a voltage issue. When it dies, the battery seems weak. It will not start right back up, it needs to set for a good 5 minutes, and then it will restart and run fine for a bit. I checked all wiring connections and they're good. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,075

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fordrulz View Post
    It will not start right back up, it needs to set for a good 5 minutes, and then it will restart and run fine for a bit.
    This indicates it's running excessively rich, and it won't restart until the excess fuel has evaporated.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    This indicates it's running excessively rich, and it won't restart until the excess fuel has evaporated.
    It the best fix to adjust the TPS sensor?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,075

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fordrulz View Post
    It the best fix to adjust the TPS sensor?
    The TPS sensor should already be adjusted to 0.63-0.65 volts at idle. No further adjustment is required.
    http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...99R9975rev.pdf (Early Pro-Jection 2D Manual)
    https://www.holley.com/document/199r9777-6rev2.pdf (Late Pro-Jection 2D Manual)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    The TPS sensor should already be adjusted to 0.63-0.65 volts at idle. No further adjustment is required.
    http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...99R9975rev.pdf (Early Pro-Jection 2D Manual)
    https://www.holley.com/document/199r9777-6rev2.pdf (Late Pro-Jection 2D Manual)
    What would be the most accurate way to tell rich vs. lean condition while adjusting?
    Just for my knowledge, how does a rich condition make the engine just cut out like it's doing?
    Thanks again for the info!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,075

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fordrulz View Post
    What would be the most accurate way to tell rich vs. lean condition while adjusting?
    I highly suggest you invest in a wideband O2 sensor kit:
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/534-201
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10485rev1.pdf
    Otherwise, you'll drive yourself crazy questioning which direction to tune.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #7

    Default Pro-Jection 2D

    I recently installed an older model Pro-Jection 2D kit, second generation I believe. I've got it tuned pretty well, but after 20 miles or so the engine will backfire & stall, but start right back up. Any idea what might be happening? The fuel pressure is set at 15 psi, and return line pressure is below 4 psi. Thanks.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,075

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fordrulz View Post
    I recently installed an older model Pro-Jection 2D kit, second generation I believe. I've got it tuned pretty well...
    Holley Pro-Jection 2/4D EFI systems were never "well tuned". They were very crude EFI systems that lacked any real tuning capability.

    I've got it tuned pretty well, but after 20 miles or so the engine will backfire & stall, but start right back up.
    I'd check the TPS voltage at idle, to see if it's moving out of range when thermally heat soaked. See post #4 above.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #9

    Default

    Found out there was a 160° thermostat installed instead of a 180°. I swapped it out and I will see what happens. Might be thinking the engine is too cold and adding too much fuel.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,075

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fordrulz
    I've got it tuned pretty well, but after 20 miles or so the engine will backfire & stall, but start right back up.
    I swapped it out and I will see what happens. Might be thinking the engine is too cold and adding too much fuel.
    That was a good find. But after 20 miles, the engine should be further heat soaked, not colder.
    Ignition misfiring or ignition module overheating? Narrowband oxygen sensor malfunctioning?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us