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Thread: Sync Question

  1. #1

    Default Sync Question

    I've been reading quite a few posts, and have not found an answer to my question yet. I had a customer drop a car off that they cannot get to run right, and I have no clue about the Holley system on the car. I have been on hold with Holley for hours, and left messages and they have never called me back, which is why I have turned to the forums for help. It's a '93 Firebird with a 5.7 LT1 engine in it. It's using the HP EFI system. The car runs terrible on acceleration. My main concern right now, is that the car idles and then the idle will raise to about 1200 RPM, after the laptop shows it lost sync. It also backfires at idle. It will also die, and it looses spark when it dies. This car has the Optispark distributor in it. When the car dies, it will also not trigger a noid light, but you can hear the injectors pulsing, which doesn't make any sense to me. When the car is running it will pulse the light. Any help I can get would be appreciated. He is supposed to have the car tuned after we get it running right.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you for the reply. I will read through those links, and see what I can come up with.

  4. #4
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    Here's two more forum threads that might be of interest to you:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....with-LS1-Coils (Holley EFI - LT1 Engine & LSx Coils)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....sequential-how (Holley EFI - LT1 Engine & Optispark)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Alright, I did a bunch of reading on the threads you posted into here. I made some ignition adjustments in the software for the crank signal to 47 degrees, instead of 60 like one of the guys did, and it runs and sounds a LOT better. I also upped the Dwell to 2 degrees instead of 1.5. The backfire is now gone. The car is running too rich and it needs to go to the tuner. But I still lose sync every once in a while, and I'm not really sure what that means. I'm thinking there is something going on with the distributor because that's where the cam/crank is on this setup. It was a new distributor when they built the engine, for whatever that's worth. I will be gone for a week, but will check in when I get back to see if there is any new info posted here. Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93Firebird View Post
    But I still lose sync every once in a while, and I'm not really sure what that means. I'm thinking there is something going on with the distributor because that's where the cam/crank is on this setup. It was a new distributor when they built the engine, for whatever that's worth.
    Record & review a System Log of this occurrence. You may have to get rid of the Optispark distributor.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....s-amp-Datalogs (Datalog & System Log Information)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Chicago IL
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    The ONLY Optispark distributor that works worth a crap,
    is the one from MSD that's $500 (MSD Part #83811).
    None of the others are worth a crap, even the stock GM one is total junk.

    If he doesn't have an MSD Optispark, it's a MUST HAVE item. There really is no other option.
    If he doesn't want to spend the money for the good Optispark,
    send him on his way, and don't tune the car.
    It's pointless to use anything other than the MSD Optispark, as everything else has/causes issues.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  8. #8

    Default

    I agree that the Optispark is completely terrible. A big part of the problem is the LT1 water pumps are known for pissing coolant out of the weep hole, straight onto the already suspect Optispark. That being said, why in the world would you spend $500 on even the best Optispark? Since he obviously already has the Holley HP, switching to LS coils or Holley waste fire might actually be cheaper, and there are other options for removing the Optispark too. That Optispark would be the first thing I got rid of if, I was building an LT1 type engine.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Chicago IL
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    If it's already wired for the Optispark, he can just put on the good MSD one that doesn't fail like the others do.
    Otherwise, it's a change to a crank trigger & a cam sync. Well guess what, it goes where the Optispark is anyways on an LT1, so it's 6 of one, half down of the other.
    For best results, he shouldn't use the Optispark for actual spark. It should strictly be for signal for the ECU, and then control spark and fire some LSx coils or some Holley coils sequentially.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  10. #10

    Default

    Ah, I see what you mean.
    Kind of unrelated, but another thing you can do to extend the life of the Optispark or cam sensor or whatever you have mounted there, is to swap the water pump out for one of the electric aftermarket ones that don't leak coolant after 10k miles.

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