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Thread: Bump Box Using SSR

  1. #1

    Default Bump Box Using SSR

    Guys, did anyone try the to wire a bump box to Holley with a single relay. If someone would share the wiring diagram, it would be great. I would like to use my transbrake & bump box for staging.

  2. #2
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    See the thread over on YellowBullet.com.
    -Scott
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    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
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  3. #3
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    Yeah, I included it in this thread (post #3), but I don't think he found it helpful:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....-Help-Bump-Box (Related Forum Thread)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. #4
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    This is the Three Relay Version. This is my multiple relay version with a bump that you can set the timer & frequency.
    Takes 3 relays. 2 that are normal, and one Holley "Nitrous Driver" (which is a solid state relay) for PWM.
    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    Here's how my setup is:
    I send my transbrake button and my bump button, directly into the ECU and let the ECU handle all of the outputs.



    When I press the transbrake button, multiple things happen.
    My transbrake output sends +12V to trigger a relay for the transbrake solenoid, and my bump PWM command goes to the solid state relay.
    It does this anytime I am holding the transbrake button so it is already on and ready for the Bump Button to trigger the change over relay.

    When I hit the bump button, it triggers the relay to change from pin 87a to pin 87.
    So it switches from constant +12V for the transbrake to a PWM +12V signal.
    (Remember, the Holley solid state relay uses a PWM- to trigger it, but it outputs a PWM+ signal to whatever device you are triggering.

    I use a non-Pin Mapped output for the bump button, and then I use a linked output to make the bump relay trigger output activate.
    So it only activates when I have the transbrake button pressed, and I press the bump button and it triggers for an actual bump time...and then shuts off. My "Trigger Time" output is the one that goes to pin 85 of the change over relay.









    It may seem a little complex.
    But it gives me normal transbrake control, with a bump button that I can adjust how far it bumps, how long it bumps, how soft or how hard it bumps.

    The way I have it set now, it's a pretty small bump, and it's smooth as glass.
    So I can stage as shallow or as deep as I want, by pressing the bump button once or multiple times.
    Last edited by S2H; 08-28-2017 at 09:07 PM.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  5. #5

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    Which one do you prefer or advise? With a single relay, you didn't have the advantage of using the transbrake alone, I guess?

  6. #6
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    I use the 3 relay version. (Notice that 3 relay version was a post by me over on YellowBullet.com.)

    Both work fine.
    If you want your bump to be a predetermined time length, you will need the 3 relay version.
    If you are OK with the bump lasting as long as you hold your bump button, then you can use the 1 relay version.

    The 1 relay version, as long as you hold your finger on it, it will bump for that length of time.
    If you hold the button for 3 seconds, it will bump for 3 seconds.

    The 3 relay version, it doesn't matter how long you push the button. You set the time, and it only bumps for as long as the time you set.
    If you set it to bump for 0.15 seconds, you can hold your finger on it for 3 minutes, and it will still only bump for 0.15 seconds.

    The 3 relay version is much more consistent, but the 1 relay version is easier to wire up.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  7. #7

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    I prefer something consistent. I will just do it the way you did it. Does it matter if I use PWM+ or PWM− (since I have the 8 input/output)? I'm already using 2 for boost control, and I would like to use the other 2 PWM+ for air shifter & bump box/transbrake.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarrah View Post
    Does it matter if I use PWM+ or PWM− (since I have the 8 input/output)?
    If you're referring to the Holley 554-111 solid state relay, it must be PWM− triggered.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #9
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    It must be PWM− for the Holley solid state relay that I have listed in the drawings above.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  10. #10

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    I did the single relay way and love it. You can set it up soft enough to wear the car creeps into the stage beam so gently, it's like you are idling in. You can also do it to where you tap the bump button and it jumps forward. Pretty easy to wire also.

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