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Thread: Barely starts and won't idle, FIRST START UP.

  1. #21

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    Yeah, that's gotta be it. I'm going to bolt in the exhaust this weekend and see if it changes anything. I took a look at the datalog, and the system is trying to correct 100%. It will idle, but the second you try to give it even the tiniest of throttle it dies.


  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Dayton, OH
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    307

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    Leaks downstream of the WBO2 sensor can cause false lean reading, so you know that open exhaust 3" beyond the sensor has to be a huge problem. I'd put the rest of the exhaust on, before I tried troubleshooting anymore. You could be chasing your tail for nothing, IMO.

    Oh, and my bad on the description of sending files; I didn't know Danny was talking about taking screenshots and posting them. My insomnia clouds the brain sometimes, LOL.
    93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400

  3. #23

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    Hey no worries man. Any help is much appreciated, insomnia and all. Ha ha ha.

  4. #24

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    OK, so I put the exhaust on my car, made sure there is no leaks, and I'm getting something similar still. But now when I blip the throttle, the AFR goes to where it's supposed to be. As soon as I let it go back to idle, the AFR goes back to 32-35. The idle is still lower then it's supposed to be. Around 500-700, and the target is 800.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1320king View Post
    But now when I blip the throttle, the AFR goes to where it's supposed to be. As soon as I let it go back to idle, the AFR goes back to 32-35.
    If the "Actual System Pressure" parameter is entered correctly, then the Base Fuel Table is too lean for some reason.
    The Base Fuel Table needs to be adjusted, if the engine won't run long enough to enter Learn mode.

    Ensure the fuel pressure is properly adjusted and the "Actual System Pressure" (Terminator - "Fuel Pres") is accurately entered in Engine Parameters.
    With TBI, the Actual System Pressure is measured anytime engine is running (no vacuum reference hose), or key-on/engine-off pump running.
    With MPFI, the Actual System Pressure is measured with the vacuum reference hose temporarily disconnected, or key-on/engine-off pump running.

    The idle is still lower then it's supposed to be. Around 500-700, and the target is 800.
    This is a common occurrence when an engine isn't idling properly (MAP kPa too high).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #26

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    OK, so I just realized my actual pressure while idling is 61 psi, and in the ECU, I have it at 58 psi. Is the 3 psi more enough to cause this? I'm going to change it and try again within the hour.

    Another odd thing is, if I slowly tip the throttle in, it dies. BUT if I blip it, it stays on.

  7. #27
    Join Date
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    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1320king View Post
    OK, so I just realized my actual pressure while idling is 61 psi, and in the ECU, I have it at 58 psi. Is the 3 psi more enough to cause this?
    I don't know...just correct it. The Engine & Ignition Parameters are very important; please ensure they're correct for your engine. I linked this in post #2:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This! (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read This!)

    Another odd thing is, if I slowly tip the throttle in, it dies. BUT if I blip it, it stays on.
    That's not odd at all. Blipping the throttle adds Acceleration Enrichment fuel, which helps your lean engine remain running. It further corroborates the fact that the Base Fuel Table is too lean.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #28

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    Thanks Danny. Going to add fuel to the Base Fuel Table and see how it responds. I figured it was an AFR sensor issue and never bothered to touch the map yet.

    Another thing Danny:
    I overlayed my idle and blipping of the throttle datalog, and I see it's saying I'm only at 15° timing, but my Base Spark Table for the cells I'm in, is 22-24. I also see on my datalog, that the Knock Retard is triggered, which is causing this. Does that mean it's knocking at idle?
    Last edited by 1320king; 05-08-2015 at 05:05 PM.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1320king View Post
    I also see on my datalog, that the Knock Retard is triggered, which is causing this.
    For initial tuning purposes, temporarily disable the knock sensor(s), until you get the engine running right.

    Does that mean it's knocking at idle?
    No, the ECU just hasn't been tuned to the knock sensor.
    Although, I zero the Max Timing Retard Table in the idle area:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ors-Holley-EFI (Knock Sensor Information)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. #30

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    Turned knock sensors off, added some fuel in the idle zone...IT'S ALIVE! Thank you so much Danny for your help! So, so, so happy.

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