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Thread: Blown Fuse

  1. #1

    Default Blown Fuse

    Engine is running perfect at the moment. I fused the red/white wire (switched +12V).
    The ECU will blow this fuse after a couple of laps at the track.
    I started with a 10 amp fuse, being just a switch wire.
    Now there's already a 30 amp fuse. It will blow this after some time. This worries me.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    27,483

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arno View Post
    I started with a 10 amp fuse, being just a switch wire.
    What engine application & main harness is this? The red/white wire isn't always just a switched +12V wire. In non-LSx applications, it also feeds power to pin "E" of the Ignition connector. I'd look for a defective ignition component or pickup sensor. Also, ensure the red/white switched +12V wire isn't chaffing or shorting to ground somewhere.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 13, Wiring Appendix)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    It's an LS1, with a Kinsler stack. I use the Holley HP, with the Holley Harness.
    We had some problems before, when the engine wouldn't run. It turned out that the injectors were drawing too much power out of the ECU, and that it didn't work anymore. There was just power enough to keep it Online, but the engine would not run. We changed the injectors, and now everything is working as it should, but it's blowing a 30 amp fuse on the red/white wire. Makes me think rather, the injectors were the problem.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    27,483

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arno View Post
    We had some problems before, when the engine wouldn't run. It turned out that the injectors were drawing too much power out of the ECU, and that it didn't work anymore. There was just power enough to keep it Online, but the engine would not run. We changed the injectors, and now everything is working as it should, but it's blowing a 30 amp fuse on the red/white wire.
    That doesn't make sense. If the fuel injectors were drawing too much amperage, they would've blown the fuse near the system relay.
    Is the red/white switched +12V wire feeding power to anything else? Electronic transmission harness maybe? Additional accessory wiring?
    If you think you have a defective ECU, you'll have to contact Holley Tech Service (Link). If you still suspect the fuel injector power wiring, read below.

    Troubleshoot the system relay & its wiring. The system relay's coil is grounded at terminal #85 by the loose black wire.
    The ECU's J1A-A2, (22 AWG red wire) energizes +12V the system relay coil at terminal #86,
    during the 5 second Fuel Pump Prime time, when cranking, and when the engine is running.
    There's a fuse next to the system relay, that powers the relay (14 AWG red wire) at terminal #87.
    The system relay activates the fuel pump, and powers the fuel injectors (& ignition coils - LSx, MOD & HEMI) from terminal #30.
    The ECU pulses the ground side of the injectors to spray fuel.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual, Section 13 - Wiring Appendix)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    I'm having essentially the exact same problem. Just about guaranteed that the 10 amp fuse for this wire blows at about the 8th lap on every session, halfway up the fastest straight, when engine is at maximum power. Will last all session if I back it off to about 80% effort. My application is an LS2.

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