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Thread: Converting A GM 572 720 HP Crate Engine

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1fast10 View Post
    If we do the FAST dual sync, and block off the cap, it's just a matter of the dual coil setup. What other harnesses should we do?
    The dual post coils are for a Waste-Spark ignition system. Yes, you can still run the Waste Spark ignition with the FAST dual sync distributor (cap & rotor removed).

    So FAST dual sync, block off cap. And dual coil setup, the 559-839 kit, and I'm assuming one additional harness is that all we would need?
    The Holley 556-101 Waste-Spark system includes the four coils and the ignition harness you'll need. The FAST dual sync distributor requires the Holley 558-313 ignition adapter harness.

    If I do coil-near-plug for this car, I would like to eliminate the MSD box entirely.
    Yes, multiple coil ignition systems (CNP/COP/DIS) don't use CD ignition boxes.
    Multiple coil ignition systems (CNP/COP/DIS) use the ECU as the ignition controller.

    We also don't have the room to add the 60-2 crank trigger to the front drive.
    You don't have to use the 60-2 crank trigger kit with Holley's Waste-Spark ignition system.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. #12

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    What about the Mallory FireStorm dual sync? It comes without a cap.

    OK, I've got the entire system wired in and ready to go. What Global Folder should I use as a baseline? Engine is 572 BBC. 80 lb/hr injectors on E85 fuel. I read instructions for FAST and set the crank at 50°, along with moving sensor on distributor. I setup crank as instructions stated, along with changing the firing order. What else do I need to setup?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1fast10 View Post
    What about the Mallory FireStorm dual sync? It comes without a cap.

    I looks great. It's an 8x crank signal, with a 1x cam sync signal. Hall-Effect sensors.
    http://mallory-ignition.com/microsit...tem/index.html (Mallory FireStorm Ignition Information)
    http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...20sensor&dds=1 (FireStorm Dual Sync Sensor Unit)
    http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...ctions_77S.pdf (FireStorm Dual Sync Sensor Instructions)

    As long as the cam sensor position is adjustable, it should be compatible:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....m-Sensor-Setup (Crank & Cam Sensor Setup)

    The crank sensor is always synchronized by installing & turning the dual sync unit. Read above link.
    I hope the cam sensor position is adjustable, or you may have to skew the firing order (in EFI software).

    OK, I've got the entire system wired in and ready to go. What Global Folder should I use as a baseline? Engine is 572 BBC. 80 lb/hr injectors on E85 fuel.
    It's imperative the Engine & Ignition Parameters, Sensors, Idle & Spark ICFs are verified to be correct, before initially starting the engine.
    If this isn't a DBW application, ensure the DBW ICF isn't included in your Global Folder (Toolbox, "Remove Individual Config", Drive-By-Wire).

    A base calibration is what you start with to create your Global Folder.
    Five ICFs (software icons) are required to operate the engine: Fuel, Spark, System, Sensor & Idle.
    Program the correct information into the Engine Parameters, Ignition Parameters, Sensors, Idle & Spark ICFs.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...librations.pdf (Base Calibrations)
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...r10546rev1.pdf (Quick Start Guide)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This! (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read This!)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....9676#post29676 (E85 Base Calibration Conversion Info)

    I read instructions for FAST and set the crank at 50°, along with moving sensor on distributor. I setup crank as instructions stated, along with changing the firing order. What else do I need to setup?
    Everything you need to know is in Holley's instructions for the FAST Dual Sync Distributor.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ons-Holley-EFI (FAST Dual Sync Distributor)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. #14

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    Thanks for the help. We ordered the kit yesterday and anything else we needed.
    This car has Auto Meter gauges that are electric. Uses one wire sensor for oil pressure & water temp.
    I do have a few questions. Can these be wired into the sensors that come with the kit to simply wiring?
    If not, can they be used in the I/O Harness & datalogged? That way just to show any differences if we have a gauge issue.
    The Auto Meter gauges has three wires at back of the gauge, and only one wire to a sending unit if that helps.

  5. #15
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    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Creating a custom Input (Inputs/Outputs ICF):
    1st Click on the Inputs/Outputs ICF and Inputs.
    2nd Name it, select Type, Enable it & Configure it.
    3rd It must be Pin-Mapped to an available J1 ECU connector Input pin; click "View Inputs" on the Pin Map.
    Then click & drag it to an available J1 Connector Input pin. Now you can run this wire to your sensor's signal terminal.

    Creating a custom Output (Inputs/Outputs ICF):
    1st Click on the Inputs/Outputs ICF and Outputs.
    2nd Name it, select Type, Enable it & Configure it. Select the Switched/Sensor Input Triggers and activation criteria.
    3rd It must be Pin-Mapped to an available J1 ECU connector Output pin; click "View Outputs" on the Pin Map.
    Then click & drag it to an available J1 Connector Output pin. Now you can run this wire to your component relay.
    A relay must be used because all the ECU's Outputs are rated at a maximum of 2 amps.

    FYI: Holley's 554-111 High Current Relay (device/solenoid driver) is not for use as a continuous duty pulsing relay.
    It's rated at 40 amps and can operate at 100% duty cycle continuously or temporarily pulsing (PWM) high currents.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r11304.pdf (NOS 15620NOS Solid State Relay Instructions - See Page 2)

    You're actually programming the ECU to assign a specific function to that Input/Output pin/circuit.
    It doesn't have a specific assigned pin; it's any available I/O pin, according to which Input/Output Type you selected.
    Don't worry, the EFI software won't allow you to make a mistake with the Pin Map.

    To connect up to 4 Inputs & Outputs to the EFI Main Harness, use I/O Auxiliary Harness 558-400.
    Eight Wire I/O Auxiliary Harness Connector Pin-Out (also in the Holley EFI Wiring Manual - LINK):
    Pin A...A12...White/Blue (Input #1) F,5,2,T,H,G
    Pin B...A3....White/Red (Input #2) F,5,2,T,H,G
    Pin C...A13...White/Black (Input #3) F,5,G
    Pin D...A4....White/Green (Input #4) F,5,G
    Pin E...B12...Gray/Yellow (Output #1) H,P+
    Pin F...B11...Gray/Red (Output #2) H,P+
    Pin G...B10...Gray/Black (Output #3) G,P−
    Pin H...B3....Gray/Green (Output #4) G,P−
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness Instructions)
    The 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness is 20 feet long, and it's "plug & play" into the EFI main harness.

    If the I/O menu icon (ICF) isn't already uploaded (added) to the top Toolbar, follow these instructions:
    (This same procedure applies to all the various Individual Configuration menu icons/items.)
    The "I/O" function is an "Individual Configuration" of the Holley EFI software.
    At top of screen, Click "Toolbox" and "Add Individual Config".
    At top of new window, select "Individual Configuration Library".
    At bottom of new window, select "Holley EFI Inputs/Outputs Config".
    Select "I/O" and open "Base Config - Blank.io".
    The "I/O" icon will then be present at top of screen.
    Quote Originally Posted by 1fast10 View Post
    Can these be wired into the sensors that come with the kit to simply wiring?
    1 or 2-wire thermistors send a variable resistance measured in Ohms. This signal can not be shared by two devices. Conversely, RPM & 0-5V signals (3-wire sensors) can be split.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3598#post53598 (Wiring Additional Sensors - Holley HP & Dominator ECUs)
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 2.1 "Pin-Outs", Pages 6, 7 & 8)
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 4.0 "Primary Sensors [& Sensor Types]", Page 8)
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 9.0 "Programmable Inputs & Outputs", Pages 27 & 28)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5244#post55244 (Splice Cap/Shrink Tube Info)

    The Auto Meter gauges has three wires at back of the gauge, and only one wire to a sending unit if that helps.
    It's the sending unit or sensor that matters, not the gauge itself.

    If not, can they be used in the I/O Harness and datalogged? That way just to show any differences if we have a gauge issue.
    Yes. If you create an custom Input (Inputs/Outputs ICF) with these sending units, they can be displayed on the Data Monitor & Data Logger.

    Here are five Input examples:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ture-ECU-Input (Transmission Temperature Input)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ith-Holley-EFI (Vehicle Speed Sensor Input)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...6659#post96659 (Crankcase Pressure Sensor)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....8211#post68211 (Internal/ECU Datalogger Switch)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3996#post83996 (AEM 30-2056 12 Position Trim Pot)

    Here are seven Output examples:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3022#post63022 (Simple Shift Light)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5217#post55217 (Shift Light Per Gear)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....0874#post70874 (Lean AFR Safety Output)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....0600#post60600 (Time Based Timing Retard)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....2395#post82395 (Gear Based/Timed Output Setup)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7756#post77756 (Engine Safety Output Information)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...4142#post94142 (Digital Dash Shift Light)

    Originally Posted by Holley EFI Wiring Manual & Diagrams
    9.0 Programmable Inputs & Outputs
    Programmable input and outputs are intended to be any input or output that is created by the user when a Global Folder is configured. Once configured, they must be assigned a to a specific pin location on the Pin Map, and then physically wired per the assigned location.

    NOTE 1: As a standard wiring practice, DO NOT wire any input or output to a source that draws more than 2 amps. This is especially true when connecting to something with a “coil”, such as any type of solenoid. If the device exceeds 2 amps, you should connect the input or output to the trigger side of the relay used to power the device, not directly to the device. Note that this 2 amp limit pertains to inputs as well (not just outputs). When depowered, some solenoids create a large fly-back voltage that is fed directly back into an input trigger of the ECU, if that input is directly connected to the solenoid.

    9.1 Inputs
    There are seven types of inputs that can be configured. The following lists them and reviews wiring recommendations. The designation on the Pin Map (Inputs) is given first, then a description.
    1. “H” – Switched 12V or “High Side” input – This input will be triggered when system voltage is applied. Minimum triggering voltage is 4.5V. Do not exceed 24V.
    Wiring: Connect up to any voltage source that is desired to trigger this input. See NOTE 1 above.
    2. “G” – Switched Ground or “Low Side” input – This input will be triggered when a ground is applied.
    Wiring: Connect up to any ground source that is desired to trigger this input. See NOTE 1 above.
    3. “5” – 0-5 volt sensor input – Any 0-5 volt sensor input such as a TPS, MAP sensor, pressure transducer, and many others.
    Wiring: Wire the signal wire from the 0-5V sensor used into the appropriate pin. Any 0-5V sensor requires a +5V reference voltage and a sensor ground. Each HEFI connector that has 0-5V inputs has its own +5V reference voltage output and sensor ground. These need to be properly wired to each 0-5V sensor used.
    It is acceptable to have multiple sensors share the same +5V and ground reference lines. Be sure to solder, heat shrink, etc. wires properly as poor connections will cause for inaccurate or faulty sensor readings.
    Do not use +5V reference or ground sources from other controllers or power supplies to support the sensor, or sensor accuracy may be compromised.
    4. “2” – 0-20 volt sensor input – Any 0-20 volt sensor input
    Wiring: Connect to desired voltage input.
    5. “T” – Thermistor temperature input – Most coolant and air temperature sensors are a 2 wire “thermistor” design.
    Wiring: Connect to one side of the thermistor device. Connect the other side of the thermistor device to a “Sensor Ground” input pin to the ECU (same pins for a 0-5V sensor).
    6. “F” – Frequency or a Digital Speed Input – Designed for a digital voltage input from a speed/rotation sensor. A Hall-Effect sensor is the common sensor used. Voltage range can be 4.5 to 24 volts.
    Wiring: A Hall-Effect sensor has 3 wires: Power, Ground, and Signal. Most sensors can be supplied with battery voltage (12V), a few require a 5 volt reference. Check with the specifications of your specific sensor. Although not usually needed with a Hall-Effect sensor, it is always advised to use a shielded/grounded cable to wire them (all three wires can be shielded). The following is advised when wiring a Hall-Effect sensor.
    Signal – Run the sensor signal wire into the Pin Mapped channel
    Power – Either supply with clean switched power, or if it is not used for another purpose, you can power from Pin P1B-B20 which is a clean 12V power source. If the sensor requires 5 volts, use a +5V reference line.
    Ground – It is best to connect to an IPU (Inductive/Magnetic Pickup) or Sensor Ground.
    Shield Wire – If using shielded/grounded cable, connect the shield ground wire to the ECU only. It is best to connect it to an IPU ground.
    7. “S” – Inductive Speed Input – Designed for an A/C voltage input from a speed/rotation sensor. A magnetic sensor is the common sensor used. The minimum arming voltage is 50 mV.
    Wiring: It is highly advised to always use a shielded/grounded cable for any inductive signal. They are very susceptible to noise. An inductive sensor has two wires - a “positive” and “negative”. Connect the positive lead to the “S” input pin that was Pin Mapped. Connect the negative side to an IPU ground.

    9.2 Outputs
    All PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) and switched outputs are rated at a maximum of 2A. If a device will draw more than 2A, some type or relay must be used. If the output is PWM, do not use a “switching” relay, but rather a solid state type relay designed to be pulse width modulated.
    There are four types of outputs that can be configured. The following lists them and reviews wiring recommendations. The designation on the Pin Map (Outputs) is given first, then a description.
    1. “H” – Switched 12V or “High Side” output – will output system voltage level.
    Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. See NOTE 1 above.
    2. “G” – Ground or “Low Side” output – will output a ground trigger.
    Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. See NOTE 1 above.
    3. “P+” - 12V Pulse Width Modulated output – Outputs a high side pulse width modulated output to control items such as a progressive nitrous solenoid or a PWM IAC – will output system voltage level. See NOTE 1 above.
    Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. A PWM device has 2 wires, connector the other side of the device to ground.
    4. “P-” – Ground Pulse Width Modulated output – Outputs a low side pulse width modulated output to control items such as a progressive nitrous solenoid or a PWM IAC. See NOTE 1 above.
    Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. A PWM device has 2 wires, connector the other side of the device to a voltage source.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #16

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    Kind of hijacking on this thread, but regarding this below.
    I name the Input, select Type, Enable it, but the Configure button is greyed out.
    On the Outputs screen, the configure button is available? Thanks.

    Creating a custom Output (I/O ICF):
    1st Click on the I/O ICF and Outputs.
    2nd Name it, select Type, Enable it & Configure it. Select the Switched/Sensor Input Triggers and activation criteria.
    3rd It must be Pin-Mapped to an available J1 ECU connector Output pin; click "View Outputs" on the Pin Map.
    Then click & drag it to an available J1 Connector Output pin.Now you can run this wire to your component relay.
    A relay must be used because all the ECU's Outputs are rated at a maximum of 2 amps.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Launchpad View Post
    Kind of hijacking on this thread, but regarding this below.
    I name the Input, select Type, Enable it, but the Configure button is greyed out.
    On the Outputs screen, the configure button is available?
    It depends on which "Type" of Input it is. The Configure parameters are only programmable on sensor type of Inputs, not switched Inputs (since it's not necessary).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #18

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    Oh I see, thanks. This is just a ground activated switch for drive oil on a boat. Thanks.

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