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Thread: Tuning MY Avenger Setup (Specific To My Vehicle)

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    Just flashed my ECU to FW V587 off the handheld's SD card. Uploaded configuration no problem. I'm now editing via laptop with SW V2.

    However, one strange thing I noticed though is; the oil pressure sensor that I'm not using, it keeps flashing between "error" and -11°. Not sure what's up with that.
    Last edited by octanejunkie; 12-30-2014 at 10:57 PM.

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    However, one strange thing I noticed though is; the oil pressure sensor that I'm not using, it keeps flashing between "error" and -11°. Not sure what's up with that.
    That's normal IF not using the fuel & oil pressure transducers. Just ignore their channel display.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    That's normal IF not using the fuel & oil pressure transducers. Just ignore their channel display.
    Any way to suppress the unused sensor output?

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    22,129

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    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    Any way to suppress the unused sensor output?
    Yeah, install the fuel & oil pressure transducers. Just kidding...but actually, they're very informative.

    The fuel & oil pressure transducers are completely optional. The engine runs the same with or without them.
    The fuel & oil pressure transducers are used for Data Monitoring, Data Logging and setup Outputs based on fuel & oil pressure.

    This is not to be confused with the "Actual System Pressure" fuel parameter (in Engine Parameters),
    which must be entered accurately because the ECU does use this single value for lb/hr calculations.
    With TBI, the Actual System Pressure is measured anytime engine is running (no vacuum reference hose), or key-on/engine-off pump running.
    With MPFI, the Actual System Pressure is measured with the vacuum reference hose temporarily disconnected, or key-on/engine-off pump running.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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    Even with the larger cam & Base Fuel Map, my truck still pings, sometimes badly.

    I've lowered the target AFRs across the board, as well as retarding the timing to try to keep if from pinging.

    On acceleration the truck putters, sounds a bit like an exhaust leak, but I know it's not.

    Coming off the pedal while cruising it goes lean & pings too. I don't want to destroy my engine...but what am I missing?

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  6. #26
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    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    Even with the larger cam & Base Fuel Map, my truck still pings, sometimes badly.
    Is the ignition timing fully synchronized? At idle and at higher RPM (Inductive Delay)?
    We started discussing this, but never came to a conclusion. Does your timing light match the Timing Table?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ing-Holley-EFI (Ignition Timing Synchronization)

    Coming off the pedal while cruising it goes lean & pings too. I don't want to destroy my engine...but what am I missing?
    Ensure the Decel Fuel Cutoff is disabled, especially for initial tuning purposes. (Fuel ICF, Fuel Modifiers, Fuel Control, Decel Fuel Cutoff.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Is the ignition timing fully synchronized? At idle and at higher RPM (Inductive Delay)?
    We started discussing this, but never came to a conclusion. Does your timing light match the Timing Table?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ing-Holley-EFI (Ignition Timing Synchronization)
    Gonna do that today... going to my buddy's house so I have a helper.

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Ensure the Decel Fuel Cutoff is disabled, especially for initial tuning purposes. (Fuel ICF, Fuel Modifiers, Fuel Control, Decel Fuel Cutoff.)
    Yup, it is. Thanks, Danny


    P.S. While I'm in there, I'd like to program in a fast idle cold start, similar to auto choke, to
    help the engine warm up faster on cold mornings. It's been cold here lately (relative, I know).

    Would I simply adjust Idle Settings > Idle Speed through out the temp range?
    -Currently, it is flat across the board.
    -Start at 1600 RPM and smoothly reduce to 875 RPM @ 120° for instance?

    OR do I also need to adjust Fuel > After Start Enrichment AND Spark > Timing vs. Coolant Temperature? (Currently all zeros.)

    Also looking at the Fuel Table, seems I should smooth it out across the board.
    There are some obvious jumps that could also be affecting performance/smoothness.

    BTW, Happy New Year!
    Last edited by Danny Cabral; 12-31-2014 at 11:20 PM.

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  8. #28
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    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    Would I simply adjust Idle Settings > Idle Speed through out the temp range?
    Yes.

    -Currently, it is flat across the board.
    That's not right.

    -Start at 1600 RPM and smoothly reduce to 875 RPM @ 120° for instance?
    You should only need about 1300 RPM at the left cold end, and gradually decrease it toward your hot idle temperature.

    OR do I also need to adjust Fuel > After Start Enrichment AND Spark > Timing vs. Coolant Temperature? (Currently all zeros.)
    No, that's not for increasing cold idle RPM speed.

    EFI Software Help Information/Instructions:
    ‒ On the top Toolbar, click "Help" & "Contents". This opens all Help topics.
    ‒ When navigating the software, click "Help ?", drag it to any parameter and click again.
    ..This automatically opens the definitions for that specific parameter.
    ‒ Tuning information can be read by clicking the F1 key, when you're viewing any screen.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev16.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual)

    Also looking at the Fuel Table, seems I should smooth it out across the board.
    There are some obvious jumps that could also be affecting performance/smoothness.
    Ensure the Base Fuel Table is smooth by viewing the Fuel Graph.
    One aspect of viewing the Fuel Graph: It's better to zoom in, by highlighting segments of the Base Fuel Table, and click "Graph".
    This method offers much greater detail. Looking at the entire "Fuel Graph" will almost always look smooth, because it's not as magnified.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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    Thanks Danny. 1300 sounds good, though my factory cars' cold idle is somewhat higher.

    As far as smoothing graphs, is it ever wise to select all & smooth, or just work in smaller areas?
    Last edited by octanejunkie; 01-01-2015 at 12:24 PM.

    '59 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup 3" lift (1" body all around, 2" rear suspension) & dual sway bars
    357ci SBC, Vortec heads, 214°/224° @ 0.050 cam/under .050" lift/112° LSA & roller rockers
    2.5" ram horn manifolds, dual 2.25" pipes, H-pipe behind trans, 14" Flowmaster mufflers
    Power steering, tilt column, power disc brakes up front, A/C (Vintage Air kit pending)
    700R4 transmission, 2200 stall, 3.42 limited-slip rear end & 31.5" tires

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,129

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    Quote Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
    I went through the spark sync procedure and feel a bit lost. I'm not sure my spark is physically advancing at all.
    The computer shows it advancing on the graph, but there's almost no advance shown on a timing light - at least not at when parked & revving the engine.
    That's not good! Post #11 states you've been driving "10-20 miles every other day on it to Learn".
    If you were using the Enable Static Timing Set (temporarily fixed timing), then of course, there is no change in timing advance.

    With my HEI distributor, I plotted a similar curve. Knowing my Vortex heads won't tolerate more that 32° total,
    I would end up with starting with an idle spark of about 10° - all of this plotted with vacuum advance disconnected.
    The vacuum advance is disconnected? Are you using a computer controlled distributor?
    Is this an ECU timing controlled application? What does your ignition system consist of?

    However, at idle, a timing light still shows only 10° on the balancer, but the software shows 25.
    You'll have to read that timing synchronization LINK again. It's very thorough.
    Is "GM HEI (computer Controlled)" selected as the Ignition Type in Ignition Parameters?
    Is 10° set as Ignition Reference Angle? The Inductive Delay is the 2nd synchronization step.

    Summary: The initial (idle) timing is synchronized by turning the distributor or adjusting the crank trigger, and locking it down. The timing at higher RPM is synchronized by adjusting the Inductive Delay in the EFI software. The first synchronization is physical, and the second synchronization is electronic (Inductive Delay). Believe the timing light above all else...it's always the real timing (if there's a discrepancy). When finished, the timing as viewed on the laptop, should match what you see with the timing light, at all RPMs. Once the ignition timing is fully synchronized, the Timing Table can be tuned for each application.

    I set the initial 10° by cranking the engine with injector harness disconnected, so it wouldn't start and rotating the distributor.
    Is 10° the Cranking Timing set in Cranking Parameters (Ignition Parameters - System ICF)?

    I guess I haven't synced my timing at idle properly, and the problems I'm experiencing are all timing related.
    Yes, I agree. Ignition timing synchronization is very important!

    Thanks Danny. 1300 sounds good, though my factory cars' cold idle is somewhat higher.
    This is user programmable EFI...do what your engine needs. I'm not there, so I can only advise you.

    As far as smoothing graphs, is it ever wise to select all & smooth, or just work in smaller areas?
    No, don't "select all & smooth", unless you're sure the entire Base Fuel Table is too lean or too rich.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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