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Thread: Smells too much gas.

  1. #11
    maik21 Guest

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    I can't read timing because timing gun isn't working right. Sometimes it flash and sometimes it don't. If I get another one, I will post results.

  2. #12
    maik21 Guest

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    I read timing wrong.

    My friend help me with the timing gun and it read 44° at idle. So he set to 24° on idle and 35° for max advance (WOT).

    I will test car tomorrow and post results.

    Thanks for your help.

  3. #13
    maik21 Guest

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    It works fine with a new tune. I use the 347 Ford file and did a %- less gas to all fuel map, then take a ride and did a %- less fuel to the cruise speed map. Now it works fine.

    Is there a power gain if I set timing high? Timing now is 35° from 3000-6500.

    This car was running past year 12.7 in 1/4 mile with a carb and same distributor. I use some information from a book called "Small Block Ford" and they say you can set the best ignition timing for drag without a timing gun. So, you rev engine to 3000 rpm then move distributor to the left or right and you will feel in your hand less vibration (engine runs smoother, quiet, no vibration). So this is the best ignition timing for race. So I did same thing but I rev to 4000 rpms. I never know what was the ignition timing with this procedure.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    22,963

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    Quote Originally Posted by maik21 View Post
    Is there a power gain if I set timing higher? Timing now its 35° from 3000-6500.
    Only a dynamometer can answer that question. Besides, we don't know your engine specifications.

    I use some information from a book called "Small Block Ford" and they say you can set the best ignition timing for drag without a timing gun. So, you rev engine to 3000 rpm then move distributor to the left or right and you will feel in your hand less vibration (engine runs smoother, quiet, no vibration). So this is the best ignition timing for race. So I did same thing but I rev to 4000 rpms. I never know what was the ignition timing with this procedure.
    ALWAYS use a timing light when adjusting a mechanical advance distributor. Record each change.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #15
    maik21 Guest

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    Well, car runs better and I went to drag strip yesterday.

    It runs 12.4 ET and I'm very happy about that. I did 2 datalogs and I saw I don't have a 12.6-12.8 AFR from 3000-5000 at WOT. So I put more gas in that rpm range and AFR change a little but I don't get the 12.6-12.8 AFR.

    Maybe I'm wrong trying to force this AFR?

    I have the datalog and the Fuel Table. If I put more gas in the 3000-6000 range at WOT (and 80 kPa-100 kPa), I will have the same numbers on the fuel table.

    Did I need to put more fuel? Or is this normal?

    Thank you Danny.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,963

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    Quote Originally Posted by maik21 View Post
    If i put more gas in the 3000-6000 range at wot (and 80kpa-100kpa) i will have the same numbers on the fuel table.
    Raising or lowering areas of the Fuel Graph, does change the numbers on the Fuel Map (if that's what you meant).
    Does your Target Air/Fuel Ratio map have 12.6-12.8 programmed in those WOT areas?
    I suggest changing all the O2 Compensation Limits to 25% (especially for tuning purposes) to allow the ECU to correct the most it can.
    In this link, read my posts about how to tune an engine using the data logger:
    http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...?post/2236964/
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #17
    droopie85gt Guest

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    I would also say, pick up a TFI distributor and get rid of that mechanical distributor. I wasn't at first, but Danny convinced me it would be best. If you understand wiring basics and can understand the install schematics, it is easy. I went to Autozone and bought a replacement pigtail for the TFI module, then followed the schematics and wired it up to the C950 thru my MSD. Holley has a TFI harness, but if your car wasn't factory TFI, you'd still have to do some wiring and soldering. I'd recommend soldering everything you can. I used a couple of spade disconnects, but I double and triple checked the crimps.

  8. #18
    maik21 Guest

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    Yeah, TFI distributors are great. Engine is running one of them right now.

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