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Thread: Smells too much gas.

  1. #1
    maik21 Guest

    Default Smells too much gas.

    Hi people. I have a big question. It smells too much gas in exhaust.

    Car is running 2 resonators in the exhaust only. There is no muffler. AFR is set at 14.71, because on 15.0 or leaner, RPM drops and then rise so I put 14.7 and it helps.

    I'm not controlling spark with ECU. Spark is controlled by distributor (mechanic and vacuum).

    Fuel injector are the 85lb/hr and engine is a 5.0L from a '96 Ford Explorer. Only an F303 cam with 288° in/out and 512" of lift in/out.

    On spark it runs a MSD 6AL, and spark gap are set to 0.039".

    So, if it's running AFR of 14.7 at idle, why it smells too much gas?

    Thank you.

  2. #2
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    We're talking about the idle, correct?
    How much timing advance at idle?
    Which wideband O2 sensor kit?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3
    maik21 Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    We're talking about the idle, correct?
    How much timing advance at idle?
    Which wideband O2 sensor kit?
    Yes, we are talking about idle.

    Timing advance I don't know how much I'm running because I set it manually to drag race and engine isn't knocking, but engine starts a little hard. A friend of mine will come to my house in about an hour, so he can read timing with a timing gun. I will post ASAP.

    Wideband O2 sensor is a type kit "DIY" from 14point7.com.
    This kit has a AFR from 10-20 and volt output are from 0V to 5V.
    So 10 AFR is for 0V.
    and 20 AFR is for 5V.

    I did a table and put into the air fuel ratio vs voltage table.

  4. #4
    maik21 Guest

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    Ignition timing is 13° BTDC at idle.
    Output of wideband O2 is linear from 0 volts to 5 volts. (10 AFR to 20 AFR.)
    Last edited by maik21; 03-13-2011 at 11:28 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by maik21 View Post
    Ignition timing is 13° btdc at idle.
    Increase the ignition timing to 25° in the idle area.
    The engine will run more efficient and require less fuel.
    This is why computer controlled timing is such a necessity.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #6
    maik21 Guest

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    I read the timing with the vacuum line on distributor connected. Is this right?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by maik21 View Post
    I read the timing with the vacuum line on distributor connected. is this right?
    No, disconnect the vacuum hose (& plug it) when reading the timing.
    Also, connect the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum; not ported.
    This may be your only problem, if you had it on the ported (timed) fitting.
    The (ported) timed spark port is only for emissions/EGR engines.

    Ported/timed vs full manifold vacuum advance:
    http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/240867/
    Last edited by Danny Cabral; 03-14-2011 at 11:42 AM.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #8
    maik21 Guest

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    I will take a look and post result.

  9. #9
    maik21 Guest

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    I disconnected distributor advance vacuum from TBI port vacuum.

    Then, I connect distributor advance vacuum to a full vacuum in the brake booster line.

    Now I have a 22° of ignition timing at idle and it don't smells fuel too much. Engine idles better and I lowered AFR to 15.00 and put idle rpm to 850.

    Only problem now is that I can't past from 4000 rpm with gear in neutral. It sounds like engine try to stop when I reach those rpms. If I press quickly gas, it revs fine.

    Need I calibrate timing? I saw AFR in neutral on 3000 rpm and it was very rich, so I lean it and only work from 3000 to 4000 rpm.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by maik21 View Post
    Now I have a 22° of ignition timing at idle and it don't smells fuel too much. Engine idles better and I lowered AFR to 15.00 and put idle rpm to 850.
    OK, good. Personally, I would use a little more timing at idle but you're limited with what you can do with a mechanical distributor.


    only problem now is that i cant past from 4000 rpm with gear in neutral. it sounds like engine try to stop when i reach those RPMs. if i press quickly gas, it revs fine.
    need i to calibrate timing? i saw AFR in neutral on 3000 rpm and it was veeeery rich so i lean it and only work from 3000 to 4000 rpm.
    Now you can continue with basic engine tuning.
    What's the timing at this RPM/kPa problem area?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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