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Thread: HP ECU Upgrade

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    The IAC is resetting to the IAC Park position. I can hear that it is open when the car starts. Then I hear it close and bring the idle down.
    Well that seems like it's working properly. I don't know why it's not maintaining an idle.
    Do you have the correct (corresponding) Target Idle Speed RPM programmed in the Idle ICF?
    I wish you had just purchased the Chrysler IAC motor and plugged it in.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info (Read "IAC Notes")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. #22
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    I measured across the pins on the IAC I have. And I get the one in the middle of this pic:
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    I'm guessing that Holley uses the top one.

    Now tell me if I'm reading and understand how this works.
    When looking at this description
    "The four wires are A: purple/white "B LO", B: purple/black "B HI", C: purple/blue "A LO", D: purple/yellow "A HI"."
    I read this as the B is one coil and the A is the other coil. Each coil has a HI and LO. The HI would be the positive side and the LO would be the negative side.
    So pin A would be coil B negative and pin B would be coil B positive.
    Pin C would be coil A negative and pin D would be coil A positive.

    Then the IAC uses one coil to open the IAC, and the other coil to close the IAC. If this is correct then I should have it correct.
    It does close the IAC and I can change the IAC park position to a higher number and it will open at a higher position on a start up. So it can open the IAC.

    If I pull the IAC and plug it in and cycle the key, what should I see? Does it reset itself? I could change the park position each time to make it change position on key off.
    Maybe if I'm lucky I can look down the IAC hole with my little inspection camera and see the IAC, then I don't have to remove it.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    I'm guessing that Holley uses the top one.
    Yes, the top schematic is the Chrysler IAC.

    Then the IAC uses one coil to open the IAC, and the other coil to close the IAC. If this is correct then I should have it correct.
    Yes, that's the IAC stepper motor function.

    If I pull the IAC and plug it in and cycle the key, what should I see?
    Don't operate the IAC motor when it's removed from the throttle body. Most people damage it that way.

    Maybe if I'm lucky I can look down the IAC hole with my little inspection camera and see the IAC, then I don't have to remove it.
    Yes, I've always been able to see the IAC pintle by looking into the IAC air inlet port.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. #24
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    I'll leave the IAC in the TB. If I can't see it from the top, I know I can see it from the bottom.
    I pulled the powers off it. I will put them back on tomorrow. A reset may help.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Well that seems like it's working properly. I don't know why it's not maintaining an idle.
    Do you have the correct (corresponding) Target Idle Speed RPM programmed in the Idle ICF?
    I wish you had just purchased the Chrysler IAC motor and plugged it in.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info (Read "IAC Notes")
    Did you adjust the idle speed screw on throttle body, to achieve an IAC Position of about 2% at hot idle?
    Remember to perform another TPS AutoSet, whenever you adjust the idle speed screw on the throttle body.
    Ensure the proper type of Advanced Idle Control is selected in Idle Settings. "Slow" may provide the best idle quality.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #26
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    I did a TPS AutoSet.
    When I reconnect the powers, I'll do another TPS Autoset.
    I will have to recheck the idle speed in the spring when it's a little warmer.
    I'm only getting up to 150° coolant temperature in the cold weather.
    I have the Idle setting on Slow. Thanks for all your input.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    I'm only getting up to 150° coolant temperature in the cold weather.
    Read the middle paragraph. Just want to ensure your cold engine temperature isn't not causing another issue:

    Learn Issues (Self-Tuning)
    Check the Closed Loop & Learn settings in System Parameters.
    Ensure both are Enabled and "Learn Gain" is 100%.
    Learning won't happen if the idle (RPM) isn't stable.
    Try blocking off the IAC passage to see if it stabilizes the idle. If so, it may be IAC related.
    Ensure the Closed Loop & Learned Compensation Limits haven't reached their percentage limits.
    Initially, if the Closed Loop Advanced Control (1-5) is set too high, it can sometimes inhibit Learning.
    Also, ensure the Learning isn't working because of repeated "RPM Errors", causing repeated ECU "syncing".

    Learning happens at all RPMs, provided the Learn Parameters are programmed as such.
    Is the Coolant Temperature Enrichment % or A/F Ratio Offset still active? These must be at 100% & zero to enter Learn mode.
    You may need to reconfigure these tables if you're running the engine colder than what the base calibration specifies.

    Closed Loop & Learning isn't active during periods of acceleration enrichment or deceleration (zero TPS, 400 RPM above target idle).
    The engine needs to be at "steady-state" RPM for the Learning to function, at lower RPM.
    The Closed Loop Status has many momentary periods when it's inactive (Open Loop mode).
    This is normal due to the TPS & MAP based acceleration enrichment (transient fueling).
    Also, any "noise" on the TPS or MAP signal wire (false Rate of Change) will deactivate Closed Loop.
    https://www.holley.com/document/tech...__statuses.pdf (Sensor Diagnostics & Statuses)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #28
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    Yes, I set the Learn Parameters so the Learning would start at 140. Everything came on and that part of it worked great. Dialed the idle AFR in, in no time at all. Then put it in gear, and revved it a little and it worked great.

    Apart from the IAC issue, I was pleasantly surprised at how well it started up the first time. A little playing with the throttle for the first 20 seconds, and then it idled in on its own.
    Last edited by 81 TransAm; 12-14-2014 at 11:53 AM.

  9. #29
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    Christmas came early. I powered it up, did a TPS AutoSet, started it up, and warmed it up.
    Now when the IAC is closed, and you touch the throttle, it opens the IAC to my IAC Hold Position.
    I can see it on the laptop, and feel it on the TB port.
    As a test, I jacked the IAC Hold Position up to 80 and it opened it up.
    The only thing I notice now, is sometimes the ECU says the IAC is still open,
    but if you put your finger over the IAC port, it is closed.
    Must be a glitch in the comm to the laptop.
    I can live with that, as long as the ECU knows where it is.
    I turned on the Idle Spark control. Does that work nice. Smooths things right out.
    Now I just need to learn where everything is in the program. I know what I want to change,
    and getting there takes some thought. Getting old and slowing down.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    Christmas came early. I powered it up, did a TPS AutoSet, started it up, and warmed it up.
    Now when the IAC is closed, and you touch the throttle, it opens the IAC to my IAC Hold Position.
    Congratulations. I had a strong suspicion the IAC motor was functioning properly (after repinning the IAC connector).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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