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Thread: Holley EFI V3 Software

  1. #21

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    Maybe I can email you the log or something? Here's what I think you want. Today three times out of say seven times, it went from syncing to RPM, and the RPM stayed solid. I had the fuel pump off, so it didn't start. Then sometimes I get no RPM at all.

  2. #22

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    And way zoomed in:


  3. #23
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    From the looks of that, you have a crank signal, but no cam signal. So the cam signal is likely your issue. I'll PM you my email to send me the log to look closer at.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    From the looks of that, you have a crank signal, but no cam signal.
    Yeah, the cam signal (post #21) is flatlined.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #25
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    I just wanted to pass on some info. Through some emails and a little use of the System Logs,
    we ended up getting it running with a Minimum Signal Voltage of 0.25V on the cam, and Filtering set to 4.

    The problem is that the signal is very noisy when cranking, and 0.25V clears most of the noise.
    And the Filtering at 4 seems to be enough to catch the small spikes above that value.
    Once it gets running, and it has some RPM, the cam signal cleans up considerably,
    but the issue was getting it to sync, and get RPM to actually fire up to begin with.

    In the picture below, you can see that most of the lower spikes (the noise) are all around .20V, so it has to be higher than that value.
    And everything is below .25V, with the exception of the one I circled in red.
    There's also one to the left of it a few pulses that is close to the .25V line, and those are the tiny spikes that need to be filtered out.

    Last edited by S2H; 11-06-2014 at 12:21 AM.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  6. #26

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    Thank you very much for helping! This man knows his stuff.

  7. #27
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    6-5-4-8-1-3-7-2 is the Holley EFI/Modular engine Firing Order. Coyote is: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2
    (It's actually 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, but for some reason the Holley EFI needs the batch of 4 swapped).

    Also, for reference:
    The pushrod 5.0 HO (Roller Cam Fuel Injected) pushrod firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
    The pushrod 5.0 non-HO (Flat Tappet Cam Carbureted) firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
    Last edited by S2H; 11-06-2014 at 01:33 AM.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  8. #28

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    So what's needed to fix the ECT readings? What's the cons of doing it through the software?

  9. #29
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    If your ECT readings are incorrect, you will need to either use a sensor that is predefined or set it up as a custom sensor and add in the values your sensor needs.
    ECT & IAT may not read exactly the same, due to location of the sensors and the fluids they come in contact with, sometimes they read differently.
    Easiest test it to take them both off the engine, and let them sit in the open air for a while and then see what they read in the Holley software.

    If they still read differently, you need to figure out why. Possibly a bad wiring connection or a shorted out wire, possibly a bad sensor.
    Possibly just that you have it setup incorrectly. Looking at the file you sent me last night, you have ECT Offset values. Normally they need to just be set to ZERO.
    If you aren't using a Holley provided coolant temp sensor, you will need to change the setting to "Custom", and manually enter the temperature vs resistance values for your sensor.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  10. #30
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    When my engine is stone cold, my (Holley) CTS & MAT sensors are always within 1°-2° of each other (no calibration Offsets).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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