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Thread: Wiring Sensors?

  1. #1

    Default Wiring Sensors?

    When wiring 0-5V sensors into the J2B harness, do I need to keep my speed sensor ground separate from all the other 0-5V sensors?
    There is a sensor ground and a speed sensor ground, can they both connect to the same sensor ground bus I've made?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3pedals View Post
    When wiring 0-5V sensors into the J2B harness, do I need to keep my speed sensor ground separate from all the other 0-5V sensors?
    Pin A14 (P1A) is a crank & cam sensor ground (VR Magnetic & Hall-Effect), and can also be a shield ground.
    Pin A18 (P1A & P2A) is a general Sensor Ground.
    Pin A22 (P2A) is a speed sensor ground for Digital Speed (Hall-Effect) & IPU Speed (VR Magnetic) type sensors.
    Pin A26 (P1A & P2A) can power several +5V sensors.
    The Dominator ECU has "Sensor +5V" & "Sensor Ground" pins available on the P1A, P2A, P3 & P4 ECU connectors.
    Pin B20 is a clean, ECU regulated +12V for ignition crank & cam sensors. Pin B20 is at the P1B & P2B ECU connector.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10633rev.pdf (Pin B20 Example - Step 3A)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7990#post47990 (Related Forum Post - Pin B20)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7584#post47584 (Similar Forum Post - Sensor Wiring)
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual)
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 2.1 "Pin-Outs", Pages 6, 7 & 8)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....als-Holley-EFI (Holley ECU Connectors & Terminals)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....8389#post58389 (How To Create A Custom Input/Output)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5244#post55244 (Splice Cap/Shrink Tube Info)

    Custom sensors and/or harnesses:
    1) The ECU already has the pull-up resistor for sinking output (open collector) sensors inside, so don't add anything.
    2) The ECU already has the shield (drain) wire connection/pin grounded inside, so don't ground it at the sensor end.
    http://www.newark.com/pdfs/techartic...haWire/USC.pdf (Shielded Wiring - look for "drain wire" on page 2 & 3.)
    Think of the shield wire as an antenna pointing to the sensor; it's only supposed to be grounded at the ECU end.

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    Originally Posted by Holley EFI Wiring Manual & Diagrams
    9.0 Programmable Inputs & Outputs
    Programmable input and outputs are intended to be any input or output that is created by the user when a Global Folder is configured. Once configured, they must be assigned a to a specific pin location on the Pin Map, and then physically wired per the assigned location.

    NOTE 1: As a standard wiring practice, DO NOT wire any input or output to a source that draws more than 2 amps. This is especially true when connecting to something with a “coil”, such as any type of solenoid. If the device exceeds 2 amps, you should connect the input or output to the trigger side of the relay used to power the device, not directly to the device. Note that this 2 amp limit pertains to inputs as well (not just outputs). When depowered, some solenoids create a large fly-back voltage that is fed directly back into an input trigger of the ECU, if that input is directly connected to the solenoid.

    9.1 Inputs
    There are seven types of inputs that can be configured. The following lists them and reviews wiring recommendations. The designation on the Pin Map (Inputs) is given first, then a description.
    1. “H” – Switched 12V or “High Side” input – This input will be triggered when system voltage is applied. Minimum triggering voltage is 4.5V. Do not exceed 24V.
    Wiring: Connect up to any voltage source that is desired to trigger this input. See NOTE 1 above.
    2. “G” – Switched Ground or “Low Side” input – This input will be triggered when a ground is applied.
    Wiring: Connect up to any ground source that is desired to trigger this input. See NOTE 1 above.
    3. “5” – 0-5 volt sensor input – Any 0-5 volt sensor input such as a TPS, MAP sensor, pressure transducer, and many others.
    Wiring: Wire the signal wire from the 0-5V sensor used into the appropriate pin. Any 0-5V sensor requires a +5V reference voltage and a sensor ground. Each HEFI connector that has 0-5V inputs has its own +5V reference voltage output and sensor ground. These need to be properly wired to each 0-5V sensor used.
    It is acceptable to have multiple sensors share the same +5V and ground reference lines. Be sure to solder, heat shrink, etc. wires properly as poor connections will cause for inaccurate or faulty sensor readings.
    Do not use +5V reference or ground sources from other controllers or power supplies to support the sensor, or sensor accuracy may be compromised.
    4. “2” – 0-20 volt sensor input – Any 0-20 volt sensor input
    Wiring: Connect to desired voltage input.
    5. “T” – Thermistor temperature input – Most coolant and air temperature sensors are a 2 wire “thermistor” design.
    Wiring: Connect to one side of the thermistor device. Connect the other side of the thermistor device to a “Sensor Ground” input pin to the ECU (same pins for a 0-5V sensor).
    6. “F” – Frequency or a Digital Speed Input – Designed for a digital voltage input from a speed/rotation sensor. A Hall-Effect sensor is the common sensor used. Voltage range can be 4.5 to 24 volts.
    Wiring: A Hall-Effect sensor has 3 wires: Power, Ground, and Signal. Most sensors can be supplied with battery voltage (12V), a few require a 5 volt reference. Check with the specifications of your specific sensor. Although not usually needed with a Hall-Effect sensor, it is always advised to use a shielded/grounded cable to wire them (all three wires can be shielded). The following is advised when wiring a Hall-Effect sensor.
    Signal – Run the sensor signal wire into the Pin Mapped channel
    Power – Either supply with clean switched power, or if it is not used for another purpose, you can power from Pin P1B-B20 which is a clean 12V power source. If the sensor requires 5 volts, use a +5V reference line.
    Ground – It is best to connect to an IPU (Inductive/Magnetic Pickup) or Sensor Ground.
    Shield Wire – If using shielded/grounded cable, connect the shield ground wire to the ECU only. It is best to connect it to an IPU ground.
    7. “S” – Inductive Speed Input – Designed for an A/C voltage input from a speed/rotation sensor. A magnetic sensor is the common sensor used. The minimum arming voltage is 50 mV.
    Wiring: It is highly advised to always use a shielded/grounded cable for any inductive signal. They are very susceptible to noise. An inductive sensor has two wires - a “positive” and “negative”. Connect the positive lead to the “S” input pin that was Pin Mapped. Connect the negative side to an IPU ground.

    9.2 Outputs
    All PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) and switched outputs are rated at a maximum of 2A. If a device will draw more than 2A, some type or relay must be used. If the output is PWM, do not use a “switching” relay, but rather a solid state type relay designed to be pulse width modulated.
    There are four types of outputs that can be configured. The following lists them and reviews wiring recommendations. The designation on the Pin Map (Outputs) is given first, then a description.
    1. “H” – Switched 12V or “High Side” output – will output system voltage level.
    Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. See NOTE 1 above.
    2. “G” – Ground or “Low Side” output – will output a ground trigger.
    Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. See NOTE 1 above.
    3. “P+” - 12V Pulse Width Modulated output – Outputs a high side pulse width modulated output to control items such as a progressive nitrous solenoid or a PWM IAC – will output system voltage level. See NOTE 1 above.
    Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. A PWM device has 2 wires, connector the other side of the device to ground.
    4. “P-” – Ground Pulse Width Modulated output – Outputs a low side pulse width modulated output to control items such as a progressive nitrous solenoid or a PWM IAC. See NOTE 1 above.
    Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. A PWM device has 2 wires, connector the other side of the device to a voltage source.
    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Dominator Auxiliary Harnesses: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...efi/harnesses/

    To connect up to 4 Inputs & Outputs to the EFI Main Harness, use I/O Auxiliary Harness 558-400.
    Eight Wire I/O Auxiliary Harness Connector Pin-Out (also in the Holley EFI Wiring Manual - LINK):
    Pin A...A12...White/Blue (Input #1) F,5,2,T,H,G
    Pin B...A3....White/Red (Input #2) F,5,2,T,H,G
    Pin C...A13...White/Black (Input #3) F,5,G
    Pin D...A4....White/Green (Input #4) F,5,G
    Pin E...B12...Gray/Yellow (Output #1) H,P+
    Pin F...B11...Gray/Red (Output #2) H,P+
    Pin G...B10...Gray/Black (Output #3) G,P−
    Pin H...B3....Gray/Green (Output #4) G,P−
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10516.pdf (Holley 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness Instructions)

    The 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness is 20 feet long.
    It's "plug & play" into the main harness, and an easy way to connect common things like an electric cooling fan (Link).
    This I/O Auxiliary Harness isn't required for the optional oil & fuel pressure transducers, which are also "plug & play" into the main harness.
    The oil & fuel pressure transducers are used for Data Monitoring, Data Logging and setup Outputs based on oil & fuel pressure.

    If the I/O menu icon (ICF) isn't already uploaded (added) to the top Toolbar, follow these instructions:
    (This same procedure applies to all the various Individual Configuration menu icons/items.)
    The "I/O" function is an "Individual Configuration" of the Holley EFI software.
    At top of screen, Click "Toolbox" and "Add Individual Config".
    At top of new window, select "Individual Configuration Library".
    At bottom of new window, select "Holley EFI Inputs/Outputs Config".
    Select "I/O" and open "Base Config - Blank.io".
    The "I/O" icon will then be present at top of screen.
    There is a sensor ground and a speed sensor ground, can they both connect to the same sensor ground bus I've made?
    The sensors will usually work fine anyway, but the ECU ground circuitry is optimized for each particular sensor type.

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    The 10-pin Ignition Connector has one "Chassis Ground" (loose black wire ground) and two "IPU Grounds" (clean ECU ground). Don't use "Chassis Ground" to ground an ignition module (or crank & cam sensors). It's quick & easy to move the ignition module ground wire from (cavity) pin D "Chassis Ground" to pin C or G "IPU Ground", where it should be.

    If you don't have the actual Metri-Pack terminal release tool, a "safety pin" will work.
    It just needs to be a stiff wire between .030"-.035" in diameter to release the terminal tab.
    Then reopen (bend) the terminal tab before reinsertion, so it will clip (lock) into the cavity.
    http://www.whiteproducts.com/removal_tools.shtml (T-6 Micro Terminal Release Pick Tool)

    Also, don't use (cavity) pin E "Switched +12V" from the 10-pin Ignition Connector, to power an ignition module (or crank & cam sensors), unless you've modified the wiring source to connect from pin B20 - EST 12V Output (P1B ECU Connector). This LINK explains why & how to do it.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (For Reference - Holley EFI Wiring Manual, Section 13 "Wiring Appendix")
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (For Reference - Holley EFI Wiring Manual, Section 2.1 "ECU Pin-Outs")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

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    Good info here!

  4. #4

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    So if you have an HP, where do you ground a Hall-Effect sensor for driveshaft RPM? Pin A22 is for speed, but not on the HP. So do I just go to A18 general sensor ground? Also, would just grounding to battery work, out of curiosity?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jesse92 View Post
    Pin A22 is for speed, but not on the HP.
    Correct, the HP ECU doesn't have a J2A connector.

    So do I just go to A18 general sensor ground?
    Yes.

    Also, would just grounding to battery work, out of curiosity?
    Yes.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #6

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    Danny, when you say J1A & J2A can power several 5V sensors, are there any limits to this? Can I stack 10 on one 5V circuit? I believe J1A already has five 5V sensors if all are used in the main wiring. Can more be stacked on top of that if you don't have the J2A or J3 harnesses? At least four more since there are four possible 5V inputs on J1A. Thanks, Marc

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdaniels View Post
    Can I stack 10 on one 5V circuit? Can more be stacked on top of that if you don't have the J2A or J3 harnesses?
    Yes & yes. (These 5V sensors don't draw any amperage.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #8

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    New here and new to Holley EFI. Putting my first system together. Thanks for being so helpful!

  9. #9
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    You're welcome, and thanks for the compliment.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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