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Thread: Low Oil Pressure Safety Feature

  1. #11
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    Just do exactly what I posted above.
    You can add up to 5 things in the safety output, that can trigger the "Boost Safety" to cut the ignition.

    If you need more than 5 things, you can make another output (make it 12V) and send it back into an input (a 20V input), to treat it as a sensor.
    Then you can make that output also have 5 more things, and include it in the safety output. Effective stacking outputs to get 9 things that can trigger the safety.

    If 9 isn't enough, stack another...but seriously, if you have that much stuff triggering the ignition cut, you probably have bigger issues to solve. LOL.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by turboborse View Post
    I called Holley the other day with the exact same questions. Over boost rev limit? Low oil pressure shut off? Low fuel pressure shut off? Needless to say the guy was no help at all. In fact, he told me to wire in a stand alone pressure switch into the ignition!? What?
    No, that's not necessary at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    If 9 isn't enough, stack another...but seriously, if you have that much stuff triggering the ignition cut, you probably have bigger issues to solve. LOL.
    LOL! I'm glad you mentioned that...I was beginning to wonder about your Global Folder.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    The N/A fuel pressure does not change at WOT (wide open throttle). At full throttle, the fuel pressure is the static fuel pressure.
    When creating the fuel pressure output, configure it using the various Sensor Input Triggers, so it's only active at WOT.
    I would agree with this for N/A applications, however, this is a boosted setup.
    I had this exact problem when a fuse blew, and the motor was coming up on boost (7 psi), and did not reach final boost due to the lean spike/melted spark plugs.
    I was hoping the Sensor Input Triggers would have the ability to do some math functions. I.E. Trigger active when (Fuel Base + Manifold Press - Atmosphere < Fuel Base)

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transam-z View Post
    I would agree with this for N/A applications, however, this is a boosted setup.
    Sorry, I forgot you're a boosted application. You're right, a forced induction application will increase fuel pressure 1:1 under boost. Use Injector Duty Cycle instead.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #15

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    What about a fan safety. My car overheated when the high speed fan didn't come on because of a fuse. How would I shut the motor down at 220° or so?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by turboborse View Post
    What about a fan safety. My car overheated when the high speed fan didn't come on because of a fuse. How would I shut the motor down at 220° or so?
    See post #4 & #11 by S2H. Once you start using the EFI software, it will all make sense.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #17

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    OK I'm lost. I have the Boost ICF loaded. Can't figure out what to do from here. I'm running twin turbos with 14# wastegates and a manual boost controller. I want to setup:
    1. Over Boost Rev Limit
    2. Low Fuel Pressure Kill
    3. Low Oil Pressure Kill
    4. High Coolant Temp Kill
    Forgot to mention this is the HP EFI. I do have a fuel pressure transducer, and oil pressure transducer. Can I still accomplish all this with no extra wiring, and step-by-step word-for-word how?
    Last edited by Turbohorse; 11-05-2014 at 08:15 PM.

  8. #18
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    Over Boost rev is setup in the Boost ICF. Just set the max boost level and set the drop down on the right to cut ignition, or if using the Holley boost control set it to dump the wastegate. I like to make my Over Boost dump the wastegate, and my safety kill the ignition.



    I actually don't use the low fuel pressure, but I added it to this picture so you could see it.
    The reason I don't use it is because I use a boost reference regulator, so fuel pressure rises with boost and drops with vacuum.
    This keeps the pressure at the injector nozzle constant, even though the rail pressure changes (as boost pushes up on
    the injector it takes more fuel pressure to spray the same amount of fuel as when there is zero pressure against it).

    Instead I prefer to use Injector Duty Cycle as my choice for fuel safety.
    If fuel pressure drops, the Holley will add fuel in closed loop, as fuel amount goes up, so will Injector Duty Cycle.
    So low pressure will cause high Injector Duty Cycle, and if it goes above 100 the injector is static open.
    Injector Duty Cycle is just a simple internal math calculation.
    Fueling is commanded in a pulse width, a time in milliseconds.
    The ECU doesn't care about the RPM. All it knows is that it needs "X" amount of fuel to complete the task.
    It looks up the Injector size and specified system pressure, and does some math and says "spray the injector for this long".
    It will calculate more than 100% duty cycle and it will command it, but the injector can only do 100%. It can't physically do any more
    internally. It might say do 20 ms, but if it only has enough time to get to 17 ms, it will just reset at that point
    and tell it to try to spray 20 ms again...effective making it stay open 100% of the time.


    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  9. #19

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    Yes, that last screen is what I need. I couldn't figure out how to get there, or set it up so I could access it. Looked everywhere just didn't know how to do it.

  10. #20

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    OK, I think I see what you did. Boost ICF ➡ Safety Setup (named Switched Trigger). Then the last screen you put up will be available. I'll try that after work tonight.
    I want a fuel kill for running out or getting low on gas, and a plugged filter/strainer causing low pressure. I ruined a pump one time from that.
    My last tuner also accidentally put 33 psi of boost to my motor, and mangled the head gaskets.
    And as I mentioned, I overheated my motor recently from the high speed fan not coming on. The old engine has had a rough life.

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