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Thread: Eight Stack Problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Motala,Sweden
    Posts
    3

    Unhappy Eight Stack Problem

    Hi. I have got a strange & annoying problem since I converted from TBI to Eight stack on my Ford 460. It runs great, but the cylinders on passenger side (1-4) is running about 0.15-0.2 Lambda richer then cylinders 5-8. Especially cylinder 1 where the spark plug is black, while cylinders 5-8 are perfect. The Lambda sensor is measuring on cylinders 5-8. First, I thought that there was something wrong with injector on cylinder 1, so I shifted it with cylinder 2 but no difference. I have also checked the spark plugs, wires & ignition coils (I'm running waste-spark), but can't find anything that is wrong. It feels like I have run out of ideas now!

    Per-Ola Borgstrom
    Motala, SWEDEN

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,675

    Default

    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5480#post45480 (Read "Potential Causes of L & R Bank AFR Differences")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Are you sure your stacks are synchronized correctly? When I ran an eight stack, this was the most critical part of the setup.
    Tom

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,675

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FuelieNova View Post
    Are you sure your stacks are synchronized correctly?
    Yep...like synchronizing multiple carburetors on a motorcycle (same tool):
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-4025/overview/ (Popular Example)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Motala,Sweden
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I have used that type of synchronizing tool, and all cylinders are between 1/2 to 3/4 on the scale, at idle (600 RPM).
    /Per-Ola

  6. #6

    Default

    Switch your WBO2 sensors from side to side, and see if how the readings look then. Tom

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Motala,Sweden
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I think I have solved the problem. It seemed to be air pockets in the end of the fuel rail. I have moved the fuel pressure regulator away from the fuel rail, and also moved the outlet of the rail. Earlier it was about 3 inches in, and on the bottom of the fuel rail, but now it's in the end.
    http://www.borlainduction.com/200079...-air-horn.html (Borla Induction - Formerly TWM Induction)

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