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Thread: Replacement Sensors & Parts

  1. #1

    Default Replacement Sensors & Parts

    I realize this system is still new, but wondered if anyone has found any sensors or parts that are prone to failure? I'm running it on an off road vehicle, and looking at what I might want to carry as spares. I figure it would be smart to have a spare oxygen sensor, anything else that would be recommended to carry?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by JWMcCrary View Post
    I'm running it on an off road vehicle, and looking at what I might want to carry as spares.
    It's funny you mention this, because just this week, I was thinking about how old my Holley EFI system is (2010), and that I haven't had to replace anything! Granted, it's not my daily driven vehicle, but still impressive.

    I figure it would be smart to have a spare oxygen sensor, anything else that would be recommended to carry?
    If you bring a laptop with you, you can enter the EFI software and run the engine in Open Loop mode (the ECU will then ignore the failed WBO2 sensor). However, I understand you have the Terminator EFI, so you're probably not tuning with a laptop.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #3

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    For me it's risk/reward. I would have a spare MAP, TPS, IAT, & WBO2 sensor for sure. Tom

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by FuelieNova View Post
    For me it's risk/reward. I would have a spare MAP, TPS, IAT, & WBO2 sensor for sure. Tom
    This is one of the first things I did after purchase. I called Holley to get the information because I didn't want to be stuck (so to speak), or not able to obtain them from a parts store. From what I was told, the only part you CAN'T get aftermarket is their WBO2 sensor, so you need to get that from Holley.

    CTS - TX3 Standard Motor Products
    IAT - AX32 Standard Motor Products
    TPS - TH191 Standard Motor Products
    MAP - AS60 Standard Motor Products (or GM 16212460)

    At least you can obtain the above parts from a parts store on the road. The WBO2 sensor is the only one you need to carry from Holley.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by FuelieNova View Post
    I would have a spare MAP, TPS, IAT, & WBO2 sensor for sure.
    Quote Originally Posted by weendoggy View Post
    At least you can obtain the above parts from a parts store on the road.
    Well, the TPS sensor won't exactly leave you stranded. You can just disconnect that sensor, and the engine will continue running without its input (NOTE).
    EDIT: You must use the coolant temperature sensor. Otherwise, the ECU receives a constant -40°F signal, and runs the engine excessively rich.
    Same thing occurs without an IAT/MAT sensor. You'd have to neutralize the Coolant/Air Temperature Enrichment table with 100% (no correction).

    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....=2760#post2760 (Replacement Sensors For Holley EFI - Auto Parts Store)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  6. #6
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    If the CTS fails, it reports the lowest possible temperature in the tune. So if the lowest value is -40°, then it's going to treat everything as if it was really -40° for ECT. Which means if you are controlling fans thru the software, they won't ever come on.

    Personally, I like to control the fans on a switch, and make it so that it can come on with ECT or with the manual switch. Takes some trickery, you end up using an output per fan, going back into an input per fan, and then a secondary output that will output based on the fan or the switch. Basically the regular fan outputs are treated as "switches". The ECU doesn't know it's not a physical toggle, all it knows is it will see voltage or a ground coming into the ECU thru an input. The output you setup, so that it activates when the "Fan Input" switch is turned on. Or when the actual Toggle for the Fans is turned on. I use it to force my fans on when I want/need them to really cool things down quickly, but it would also work as a way to turn them on if the CTS fails.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    If the CTS fails, it reports the lowest possible temperature in the tune. So if the lowest value is -40°, then it's going to treat everything as if it was really -40° for ECT...
    Thanks. Now that you mention it, I do remember seeing -40°F when I disconnected the CTS sensor a long time ago.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  8. #8

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    I think it depends on the application. The reason I want spares of everything is because I do cross country trips in my Nova, If I'm going from Minneapolis to California, and have a problem during the trip, I want to just pull over & replace the sensor, and be on my merry way. For the price of the sensors, it's cheap insurance.
    Tom

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FuelieNova View Post
    For the price of the sensors, it's cheap insurance.
    For the record, I never stated it isn't a good idea. This thread just made me remember how reliable/dependable the Holley EFI system is.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    For the record, I never stated it isn't a good idea. This thread just made me remember how reliable/dependable the Holley EFI system is.
    Actually, if you think about it, these are the same sensors that are used on a lot of regular engine systems. It really shows how dependable EFI systems are. Just nice to know they aren't proprietary (exception: WBO2 sensor).

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