Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 345
Results 41 to 50 of 50

Thread: HP EFI - no cam signal?

  1. #41

    Default

    The vacuum itself I understand the concepts of. But this noise is new, and wasn't there when I first got this motor up and running; and it is really loud. That said, I screwed the IAC back together, but even all the way compressed it is reading as being at 50%, maybe it will calibrate itself.

    I played around with the vacuum tester and a different MAP sensor to get the hang of it, then took mine off the car to test it. Looking closely at the bottom, it had a piece of rubber in it. Pulled that out and now it seems to work fine. What a dumb thing to overlook.

    I made the changes you suggested, and now it idles better. Though still higher than I'd like, and still floating around a bit. From what I gather, it's in a much better range overall though.

    Once I can get it driveable and fix the ignition, so I can actually turn off the engine, I'm going to get this thing to a tuner. But I really appreciate everyone's help so far. Just wish I had more time to spend on actually learning more about it.

    Name:  mapcleaned.jpg
Views: 158
Size:  99.8 KB

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,947

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chuckd71 View Post
    I played around with the vacuum tester and a different MAP sensor to get the hang of it, then took mine off the car to test it. Looking closely at the bottom, it had a piece of rubber in it. Pulled that out and now it seems to work fine. What a dumb thing to overlook.
    I'm glad you found that problem. Now you need to clear the Learn Table of those erroneous higher kPa values.

    I made the changes you suggested, and now it idles better. Though still higher than I'd like, and still floating around a bit. From what I gather, it's in a much better range overall though.
    Have you programmed the Target Idle Speed (RPM) in the Idle ICF?
    Is the idle speed screw adjusted on the throttle body, to achieve an IAC Position of about 2% at hot idle?
    Remember to perform another TPS AutoSet, whenever you adjust the idle speed screw on the throttle body.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info (IAC Information - Read "IAC NOTES")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #43

    Default

    I just cleared the Learn Table, but someone in another forum (before I fixed the MAP) suggested I transfer my old Learn to base. Can I wipe that as well, or do I need to start over with a new Global Folder.

    This is what the idle speed is setup like, but it's idling in the 1100-1300 range.

    It looks like I have to put further idling work on hold. My battery is low and I think I need to address this ignition cylinder problem. I do perform TPS resets whenever I touch the screw though.

    Name:  targetidle.jpg
Views: 151
Size:  63.2 KB

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,947

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chuckd71 View Post
    I just cleared the Learn Table, but someone in another forum (before I fixed the MAP) suggested I transfer my old Learn to base. Can I wipe that as well, or do I need to start over with a new Global Folder.
    If you don't have a copy of the last "known to be good" Global Folder, you'll have to start over (which may be a good thing).

    This is what the idle speed is setup like, but it's idling in the 1100-1300 range.
    If the throttle blades are set correctly, you may need a new IAC motor.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #45

    Default

    Does doing a TPS AutoSet not set a new 0%? For example, if it's currently set at 2% and I AutoSet it, does the old 2% now become the new 0%?
    It started raining so I think for today the work is done, but first thing in the AM, I will start over with a new Global Folder. If nothing else, it will allow me to better track the changes made along the way.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Chicago IL
    Posts
    1,952

    Default

    Yes, TPS AutoSet sets wherever the TPS position is at currently as the new 0/100 positions.
    It samples the voltage output by the TPS sensor, lowest value is 0%, highest value is 100%.
    Everything in between is linear between 0% and 100%.

    It only sets the TPS to zero, not the IAC.
    If the IAC never reads a lower number, then it's likely bad.

    An easy way to test the IAC is to set the IAC Parked Position to zero, and then turn the key, then just unplug the IAC.
    It will be set to zero at that point, which should be all the way closed (pintle pushed out till it seals the IAC hole).
    You can then remove it from the throttle body and see where it sits.

    Then set the table all to 100 and you can check the other direction...it should move all the way back in.

    By a self setting IAC reset, the IAC sequence moves it all the way closed (until it cant move any more),
    and it calls that Zero, and then moves it to the specified Parked Position.
    It's quite a beautiful arrangement that makes it work on any Throttle body with an IAC orifice.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  7. #47

    Default

    Did the above and the IAC seems to be working.
    The car idles around 750-800 ish now, though it does still swing a bit.
    I played around with the timing, but I think I need to read up a bit on what changing it
    will do, I've seen something close to 40 recommended at idle, but that sounds like a lot.
    Right now, it has sort of a lawn-mower sound to it up front, and a popcorn machine sound out the pipes.
    Here is a video showing what I mean: https://flic.kr/p/oB1gFk
    As long as it doesn't rain later, I'm going to try getting around the block a few times.
    If that is successful, I'll make a gas run. At that point, I'll feel okay about driving to a tuners place.

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Chicago IL
    Posts
    1,952

    Default

    Your cam isn't very big, but it is bigger than stock.
    I suggest setting your desired idle to around 800-850 rpm.
    (Just raise the whole table you show in a post above by 200 rpm.)

    I HIGHLY doubt it wants 40° at idle.
    That setup should want 24°-28° at idle.

    Try setting the Idle spark PID settings to 40/60.
    And base spark in the area, it idles to 24° and go from there.
    -Scott
    Don't forget to check out progress on my Race Car:
    Project Blasphemy - 8.07 @ 171
    Low 8 Second Street Car

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,947

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    I HIGHLY doubt it wants 40° at idle.
    That setup should want 24°-28° at idle.
    Yeah, I've never used more than 28° of idle timing on anything.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. #50

    Default

    40 sounded like a lot and I hadn't tried it, but a guy over on LS1TECH, with a vaguely similar setup, found it to work for him. Sadly one size fits all, doesn't apply here.
    I made the changes suggested and it is driveable, more or less. It will on occasion die when in gear, but a bit of gas will keep it going.
    After 5 miles or so of slow road driving, I took it out to an area with a 55 mph speed limit, and tried to get on it a bit. It didn't rev past 2800 rpm, and it sounded sort of bogged down. Giving it gas at any speed, just gets a sort of muted response and slow increase in speed. Much better than before though. I think I could make it to a tuner, but I'm going to save this Global Folder somewhere and keep playing around with it a bit.

    Edit: Went on the longest drive so far, a whole ten miles, with about 5 of that being on the interstate. I pretty much need a calendar to measure 0-70 times, the motor just won't rev at all. The LS1 I had before would spin like crazy, so I'm sure this is just another indication that I could use some hands-on tuning help. I eventually got up to cruising speed and everything seems to be in order, temps, pressures and all that look good. Not sure I'd want to drive it like this more than a couple miles, but if nothing else it's good to know that progress is being made.
    Last edited by chuckd71; 08-24-2014 at 08:51 PM.

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 345

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us