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Thread: Help With Commander 950

  1. #21

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    How do we check the RPM signal if it's valid? On the ECU, it shows that it's receiving the signal (when cranking, Fuel Pump On is highlighted red), even if it's a weak signal?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient View Post
    How do we check the RPM signal if it's valid? On the ECU, it shows that it's receiving the signal (when cranking, Fuel Pump On is highlighted red), even if it's a weak signal?
    The Fuel Pump On red light just indicates there's activity on the RPM signal. It could still be a illegitimate signal. Are all your Engine Parameters (Hardware Settings) programmed correctly?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #23

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    It's V8, Closed Loop, TBI, Inductive Pickup, Speed Density, 1 bar MAP.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient View Post
    ...Inductive Pickup...
    I'm not sure about this. I haven't used the C950 in many years, and I've always used ECU timing control. I'm not sure if you're supposed to select "Coil − (No Spark Control)". I realize the C950 manual states not to use it with a capacitive discharge ignition, but I forget if that just means not to select this with ECU controlled timing and a CD ignition box. I think you'll have to call Holley Tech. Personally, I've never run EFI without timing control; it's really half an EFI system.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #25

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    Thank you very much anyway. You have been really helpful.

    The manual said never connect the yellow wire when a capacitive discharge ignition is used, so I left that disconnected.
    I also tried select "Coil − (No Spark Control)", but no luck. I will contact tech support to see if they can help.
    If not, I think I will have 2 options. First, change to ECU timing control setup. Second, go back to carb.

  6. #26

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    Sorry for the delay. I have not tried with a PC, so that's what I will do next. The engine was already on two years ago with the same fault system, but not fired more. The fuel pump does not turn on for 5 seconds, nor does the voltage probe directly. If directly instead, very good pressure. The distributor is a MSD P/N 8366. And in this point of view, would only turn it on and see this it just right, but as I mention already fired long ago and it did not move. The rest I owe it to the weekend. Much appreciate your help my friend.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enmiguel View Post
    The fuel pump does not turn on for 5 seconds, nor does the voltage probe directly.
    I would troubleshoot the system relay and check the fuse. Is there a Base Map loaded?

    The distributor is a MSD P/N 8366.
    MSD (Ford) TFI and MSD (GM) HEI distributors are notorious for having inferior ignition modules (and cranking is the worst aspect).
    Replace the ignition module with a genuine GM ignition module.
    (This same rationale applies to Ford TFI distributors too.)
    ‒ Ignition module for MSD 8366 Pro-Billet Distributors:
    GM 19179578
    ACDelco D1943A
    http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...CO_D1943A.html
    http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...EI_modules.jpg
    ‒ I'd also verify the GM HEI module polarity is wired correctly:
    http://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15
    http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm

    ‒ Apply heat sink (thermal conductive) paste on the bottom of the module before installing it.
    Often times, dielectric grease is wrongly used and will lead to an overheated (failed) module.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. #28

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    Hello, I'm back. Sorry not to write before, but I've been working full. I could turn, change the relay, and load a Base Map from the PC and everything works. It just stopped turning for a while, for something related to oxygen (was saying rich/lean O2 Voltage 0), and did not want to inject more fuel. Don't know if it was from the time the car was stopped and everything is dusty, or maybe more. Again, thank you very much for your help.

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