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Thread: Terminator with HP ECU?

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    "What's your Ignition Type and how are your Ignition Parameters configured?"
    Ignition Type ...... ― "Custom"
    Crank Sensor Type ― "60-2"
    Sensor Type ....... ― "Digital Falling"
    Inductive Delay ... ― "240.0 usec" I kept missing this even though there was a pop-up message about it being over 50. Is this the problem?
    Timing Offset ...... ― "29"
    TDC Tooth Number ― "12"
    Cam Sensor Type . ― Not Used
    Sensor Type ........ ― "Digital Falling"
    Output Setup Type ― "DIS Waste Fire"
    Dwell Time .......... ― "3.5-5.0 msec" (← Read end of page 3 - Link.)

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedphreake View Post
    Inductive Delay .... ― "240.0 usec" I kept missing this even though there was a pop-up message about it being over 50. Is this the problem?
    No. That's not what that warning message means.
    It means if left unsynchronized, the timing can advance beyond what the Timing Table specifies.
    That's just a warning message to ensure you synchronize the timing at higher RPM (Inductive Delay).
    After synchronizing the timing, ignore that warning message and never adjust the Inductive Delay again.

    Timing Offset ...... ― "29"
    Why is there this much Timing Offset? Adjust the crank sensor position to get it closer to zero.

    Output Setup Type ― "DIS Waste Fire"
    Why isn't this set to "DIS Coil On Plug"?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #23

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    I can't find it right this second, but somewhere I read to put the engine at 60° BTDC and set the crank sensor to the 11th tooth. I couldn't get it to align, so I set it to 12. When I sync the timing, I got the #1 plug to fire at 0°, and the on screen timing set to 0°. I'll reset the crank wheel and get it closer to zero.

    I thought DIS Waste Fire is what I needed to use when there is no cam sync?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedphreake View Post
    I can't find it right this second, but somewhere I read to put the engine at 60° BTDC and set the crank sensor to the 11th tooth. I couldn't get it to align, so I set it to 12. When I sync the timing, I got the #1 plug to fire at 0°, and the on screen timing set to 0°.
    I inquired about the Timing Offset value (not the TDC Tooth Number).

    I thought DIS Waste Fire is what I needed to use when there is no cam sync?
    Oh...that's why I asked. You really should be running a cam sync unit. I realize Holley EFI can also fire CNP coils in waste-spark mode, but I question if it's acceptable for long term use, due to their much higher dwell time. CNP coils are simply not designed for this, however, it's still a good troubleshooting/emergency option if the cam sensor fails.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    I inquired about the Timing Offset value (not the TDC Tooth Number).
    The Timing Offset is where I got the timing to read correct, the way I had setup the crank trigger.

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Oh...that's why I asked. You really should be running a cam sync unit. I realize Holley EFI can also fire CNP coils in waste-spark mode, but I question if it's acceptable for long term use, due to their much higher dwell time. CNP coils are simply not designed for this, however, it's still a good troubleshooting/emergency option if the cam sensor fails.
    What's the easiest way to setup a cam sync on a SBC?

    Any other thoughts on why I can't get this to run? I'll be working on it tomorrow, and adjusting the crank sensor to get the Timing Offset as close to zero as I can. Other than that, I don't know what to be looking for.

    Thanks, Jeff

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedphreake View Post
    What's the easiest way to setup a cam sync on a SBC?
    The EFI Connection cam sync unit (Link) is the most popular option.

    Any other thoughts on why I can't get this to run?
    Typical No-Start Checks:
    Does the Data Monitor display legitimate cranking RPM?
    Does the Data Monitor display legitimate sensor values?
    Does a Datalog indicate any RPM Errors?
    Are the fuel injectors spraying fuel?
    Have you performed a TPS AutoSet?
    Is the fuel pressure set to proper psi?
    Does the fuel pump prime for 5 seconds at key-on?
    Is the ECU controlling timing?
    Does the timing light indicate there's spark/ignition?
    What does your ignition system consist of?
    Is the correct ignition type entered in Ignition Parameters?
    Are the spark plugs fuel fouled/wet?
    Are you running in sequential mode?
    If so, which cam sync sensor type is it?
    Is the ignition timing synchronized with the ECU?
    Is the keyed 12V red/white wire powered when cranking?
    Is the battery fully charged?
    The engine won't start if the throttle is opened beyond the "Clear Flood TPS" setting.
    Is it correctly wired as shown in the wiring manual? (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - LINK)

    If the Data Monitor doesn't display consistent RPM (after syncing), start troubleshooting the crank sensor.
    If all EFI wiring is correct, I'd record a Datalog and if necessary, a System Log also:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....p-SL-Data-Logs (Sensor Diagnostics & Datalogs)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    The EFI Connection cam sync unit (Link) is the most popular option.
    I was looking at that last night.

    If the Data Monitor doesn't display consistent RPM (after syncing), start troubleshooting the crank sensor.
    Reads 140-150 RPM while cranking.

    If all EFI wiring is correct, I'd record a Datalog and if necessary, a System Log also:
    Will do this and see what it shows.

  8. #28

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    Well, I got it to run last night. Rechecked everything; only real changes I made was realigning the crank sensor so I have 0° offset, and I added a separate relay to power the coil & switched 12V wires. I still have a couple issues though.

    It does not show an WBO2 reading. It has a red dot next to it on the gauge panel. What do I look for to fix that?

    Also, under System, Closed Loop/Learn, general section, if the "Enable Closed Loop" box is check, it runs very rich. I have a separate WBO2 gauge that reads 10-11 AFR. If I uncheck the box, it will run 12-13 AFR and idle better. Still not that good, but better. Should that box be checked or unchecked?

    Lastly, what should the fuel pressure be? If I load a base calibration for TBI, it automatically loads the "Actual Fuel Pressure" at 43, but the install instructions say TBI fuel pressure is supposed to be 21. Which is correct?

    Thanks again for all the help.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedphreake View Post
    It does not show an WBO2 reading. It has a red dot next to it on the gauge panel. What do I look for to fix that?
    https://www.holley.com/document/tech...__statuses.pdf (Sensor Diagnostics & Statuses)

    Also, under System, Closed Loop/Learn, general section, if the "Enable Closed Loop" box is check, it runs very rich. I have a separate WBO2 gauge that reads 10-11 AFR. If I uncheck the box, it will run 12-13 AFR and idle better. Still not that good, but better. Should that box be checked or unchecked?
    Closed Loop & Learn should be enabled (System ICF). Ensure both are Enabled and "Learn Gain" is 100%.

    Lastly, what should the fuel pressure be? If I load a base calibration for TBI, it automatically loads the "Actual Fuel Pressure" at 43, but the install instructions say TBI fuel pressure is supposed to be 21. Which is correct?
    You didn't read the Terminator manual. Page 29 states the fuel pressure is 43 psi.
    Also, the Terminator EFI base calibrations are based on 43 psi of fuel pressure.
    If you're running anything other than 43 psi, it must be changed in the calibration.

    It's supposed to be set at 43 psi. Did you enter this change ("Fuel Pres") in the programming?
    http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...R10653rev3.pdf (Terminator EFI Manual)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. #30

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    According to the troubleshooting, the red dot means the O2 is unplugged. I tried unplugging it and plugging it back in, but it still does not read. What else can I do to troubleshoot this?

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