Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 31 to 37 of 37

Thread: MSD 8360 Distributor & 6AL to HP Wiring Harness

  1. #31

    Default

    Hi Dan, I'm having some major grief with starting up my car for the first time. Andy from Hilborn wrote the base map for me for my engine, so I think thats OK. I followed all the TPS AutoSet instructions and everything. The motor will barely idle and black smoke is coming out of the exhaust. I'm pretty sure the timing is OK, as when I removed the old distributor I marked out #7 on the firewall, which is where the rotor was pointing to it. I set the butterflies at idle so they are just open using a piece of paper for clearance. Do you think my timing could be out, would timing cause the heavy black smoke? Trying to get up to the rod rod today, would sure be nice to get her running so I can drive her. Thanks, Morey

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,936

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smalliehunter View Post
    Andy from Hilborn wrote the base map for me for my engine, so I think thats OK.
    OK...if you say so.

    I'm pretty sure the timing is OK, as when I removed the old distributor I marked out #7 on the firewall, which is where the rotor was pointing to it.
    Your timing is not synchronized. The base (distributor) timing should be synchronized before starting the engine:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ing-Holley-EFI (Ignition Timing Synchronization - Read This!)

    I set the butterflies at idle so they are just open using a piece of paper for clearance.
    You'll most likely need to open the throttle blades more than that. When you get it to idle properly:
    Adjust the idle speed screw on throttle body, to achieve an IAC Position of about 2% at hot idle.
    Remember to perform another TPS AutoSet, whenever you adjust the idle speed screw on the throttle body.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info (IAC Info - Read "IAC Notes")

    Do you think my timing could be out, would timing cause the heavy black smoke?
    Heavy black smoke is caused by an extremely rich AFR condition (base calibration).
    I'd look at where it's trying to idle on the Base Fuel Table. How many lbs/hr of fuel?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....8687#post48687 (Additional Information)

    Trying to get up to the rod rod today, would sure be nice to get her running so I can drive her.
    You're probably not driving it, today.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #33

    Default

    OK, I'm checking into this stuff right now and will provide the info. Thanks.

  4. #34

    Default

    Dan, needless to say I didn't get to the show, I'm more concerned about getting the car running correctly than getting to the show. I'm going to start with the timing from scratch at #1 TDC to make sure this isn't out of whack, and then go from there. I'll follow your timing sync instructions to the letter. One odd thing in the HP software, is that the Learn Table doesn't have any data, no yellow dot to follow like on the Holley videos. Does this mean my WBO2 band sensor isn't working? When I USB LINK, I get all the green lights and no errors. I checked my settings, and Andy set the WBO2 to Bosch, which is the sensor that can with the HP Kit. All my gauges work on the panel in the HP display, my AFR gauge reads around 13 ish at 1200 RPM. I noticed my TPS reads 29% at 1200 RPM, this is after adjusting the idle and doing a TPS AutoSet, powering down the ECM and then starting the motor. Shouldn't the TPS read a lower % at idle? Today will be a process of elimination day. Thanks, Morey

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,936

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smalliehunter View Post
    I'll follow your timing sync instructions to the letter.
    Yes, it's imperative that the ignition timing is fully synchronized.

    One odd thing in the HP software, is that the Learn Table doesn't have any data, no yellow dot to follow like on the Holley videos.
    The ECU doesn't enter Learn mode until the engine reaching normal operating temperature.

    Shouldn't the TPS read a lower % at idle?
    At idle (no throttle), the TPS Position should be 0%.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #36

    Default

    Dan, does the CTS tell the ECU when the engine is at normal operating temp or the IAC sensor? Remember, I don't have an IAC in my system...I do have a CTS. Why do you think the TPS would not read 0% when at idle, and after I've performed the TPS AutoSet? This would explain the rich condition with heavy black smoke, would it not? One thing I should mention, when I installed my TPS, I had to install it on the throttle shaft with the TPS turned clockwise approximately 20%, so the body of the TPS lined up with the holes on the end of the throttle body and was straight up and down. This was due to the notch on the shaft not in the correct position. In other words, the TPS is preloaded about 20% of it's full rotation. I didn't think this would be an issue, as doesn't the TPS AutoSet reset it to zero %, no mater what position it's in? I'd really like to know more about how the HP system works in general, so I don't have to keep bothering you all the time. Is there some type of a tutorial or guide that you would recommend that doesn't get into the heavy detail, but does cover the basics and general operation? Thanks again, Dan

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,936

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smalliehunter View Post
    Dan, does the CTS tell the ECU when the engine is at normal operating temp or the IAC sensor?
    The CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) transmits the engine temperature signal to the ECU. I was shocked that you asked me this.
    The IAC motor/valve is not a sensor, it's an actuator. You were informed of this in post #21.

    Why do you think the TPS would not read 0% when at idle, and after I've performed the TPS AutoSet?
    If the TPS AutoSet was successful, either the TPS AutoSet isn't being saved,
    the TPS sensor is defective, or throttle lever isn't fully returning to idle position.

    This would explain the rich condition with heavy black smoke, would it not?
    No.

    I didn't think this would be an issue, as doesn't the TPS AutoSet reset it to zero %, no mater what position it's in?
    Yes.

    I'd really like to know more about how the HP system works in general, so I don't have to keep bothering you all the time. Is there some type of a tutorial or guide that you would recommend that doesn't get into the heavy detail, but does cover the basics and general operation?
    I would start by reading "Step-By-Step Beginner's Tuning" in the "Help" Contents of the Holley EFI Software.
    However, you will need help with this. I highly suggest you stop & seek the help of a professional EFI tuner.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us