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Thread: Bogging/Cutting Out Problem

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,985

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    That's expensive. I would've eliminated the Ford TFI module by now. Read post #40 again.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. #52

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    Danny, is the MSD Flying Magnet kit all I need, or are there any additional parts I need to purchase to do the swap? I would love to get rid of the TFI module. My distributor's PIP sensor or pickup, may also be causing some issues too. Will I still need to buy the Motorcraft one or does it cancel out that also? Maybe a dumb question, but hey this stuff is still new to me (BWD distributor, so the pickup may be as bad as the module was).
    '91 Mustang Notchback, daily driver/drag car. 306", 3000 lbs with me & full interior, Team-z upper/lower CA's, X pipe & MAC Pro Dumps, built AOD, Silverfox custom valve body, BTE custom 4000 stall, 4.56s, Trick Flow Track Heat heads, Track Max cam, 1.72 RR, ported rpm air-gap, Terminator EFI, 12 gallon fuel cell, Strange adjustable shocks, 4 cyl front springs, M/T 295/50/16 drag radials. 11.95@115

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,985

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rhino0487 View Post
    Danny, is the MSD Flying Magnet kit all I need, or are there any additional parts I need to purchase to do the swap? I would love to get rid of the TFI module.
    With a single coil distributor ignition, if you don't want sequential injection, an MSD Flying Magnet crank trigger kit & CD ignition box is all that's required.
    (The CD ignition box fires the coil.) If using an MSD Flying Magnet crank trigger kit, use Holley's 554-118 direct fit replacement Hall-Effect crank sensor.

    The Hall-Effect crank & cam sensors are wired as seen in the Holley EFI Wiring Manual:
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Figure 11/12, Page 20/21)

    My distributor's PIP sensor or pickup, may also be causing some issues too. Will I still need to buy the Motorcraft one or does it cancel out that also?
    If you want sequential injection or a coil-per-cylinder ignition system, a cam sync sensor is required (which
    means you'd need to retain the internal Hall-Effect PIP pickup sensor, but still eliminate the TFI module).
    Of course, you'll have to change your Ignition Parameters to "Custom", and select the appropriate settings.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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