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Thread: 1960 Pontiac with Pro-Jection 2D, help please!

  1. #11

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    OK, I found the 12V issue. Wire was severed, but the rubber jacket was hiding it. I have fixed it and now have +12V headed to both injector caps.

    My digital multimeter is a bit slow, so it's hard to test the pulse. I know my voltage drops to about 8-9 when cranking the car. I'd imagine, it should drop way down, if it's pulsing? Maybe I'll go buy a noid light.

    Thanks, DK

  2. #12

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    OK Danny,
    Had to buy a whole noid light kit at Advance Auto, but in the end, I think I got what we need. Hooked up the noid light to both injector tops and I had bright light at first and then small pulsing lights. Very small pulsing lights. The bulb barely lit up, but definitely pulsed. I plugged the tops back on, and injectors still not spraying any gas at all.

    Injectors clogged or bad? I pulled them out and can't notice anything out of the ordinary.
    Some gunky stuff and gas in there. I went and ahead and ordered the pair of injectors below based off other forum posts.

    Are these it?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-Pro-J...-/160535893443

    Thanks and please let me know what you think next. DK
    Last edited by dkyork; 03-03-2014 at 03:40 PM.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkyork View Post
    Hooked up the noid light to both injector tops and I had bright light at first and then small pulsing lights. Very small pulsing lights. The bulb barely lit up, but definitely pulsed.
    The injector drivers may be damaged or weak, from whatever caused the meltdown.
    I'd disconnect the injector caps, and probe the injector wiring at the ECU connector. (Jumper wires & noid light.)

    Injectors clogged or bad?
    One of those injectors looks like it's fried (burnt).

    I don't know...are they your part number?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  4. #14

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    I went ahead and ordered a pair of injectors with a new cap harness. I figured it's worth spending $100 before I look at spending $2k on the Avenger. Thanks and I'll report back when the parts come in. DK

  5. #15

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    Man, I'm beyond frustrated. The new injectors are spitting fuel great. I had to replace the fuel pump as well because it was losing pressure back toward the tank. The new fuel pump is quiet, and I'm getting a pretty steady 15 psi while idling (or trying to idle). If I turn the key to build up pressure while the engine is off, it does go down a little. Seems the regulator might be a little quirky. I adjusted it to about 16 psi.

    When I have all the ECU dials set to neutral position (all horizontal), I can't get this thing to idle. I've played with the mechanical idle screw and can't get it to idle above 550 RPM. When I try and apply a little gas, I hear a loud air sound coming form the TBA and it starts to die out. I let go and it goes back to idling around 550. I adjust the TPS sensor to .64V, which it was already pretty close.

    I just don't know what to do at this point. Fuel line new, fuel pump new, new regulator, new solenoid, new vacuum caps. Just the sounds of swooshing air from the carb at times. I have 2 vacuum caps on. I have the front middle hose going to the brakes and then there is a front line hose that wraps around the left side of the engine and down somewhere. Am I still getting air in the carb somewhere?

    One thing to note, is that if I turn the Main dial up 90 degrees, I can get the RPM up easily and push the pedal to about 2500 RPM before I hear that air swooshing sound from the TBA and it tries to die out.

    Any suggestions? Thanks, Dale
    Last edited by dkyork; 03-22-2014 at 06:09 PM.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkyork View Post
    If I turn the key to build up pressure while the engine is off, it does go down a little. Seems the regulator might be a little quirky.
    You mean the pressure drops after the initial prime time? If so, that's normal.

    Just the sounds of swooshing air from the carb at times.
    It's not a "carb", it's a throttle body. The air swooshing indicates the EFI unit is way off tune.

    Am I still getting air in the carb somewhere?
    With EFI, a vacuum leak causes a higher idle, not lower (unless the idle tune is way off).

    One thing to note, is that if I turn the Main dial up 90 degrees, I can get the RPM up easily and push the pedal to about 2500 RPM, before I hear that air swooshing sound from the TBA, and it tries to die out.
    Again, which engine is this? It may need more than 16 psi base fuel pressure.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #17

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    Ugh, don't know why I was saying carb. My brain is fried and I smashed my finger under the hood today. Pontiac had so many engine types that year I have yet to figure it out.

    Here's a paste below of what I found. I have the Hydramatic automatic transmission, so it's either the 215 with cheaper fuel or the 280 HP 4 speed one. I know this car was running great before with this TBI system installed, so I don't think it's undersized. I imagine I have the 215HP system. At least I hope so because I've been putting the cheap gas in it.

    "Catalinas came standard with a 235 horsepower (175 kW) version of the 389 with two-barrel carburetor and 8.6 to 1 compression mated to the three-speed manual transmission. When the optional four-speed Hydramatic transmission was ordered, the standard engine was 280 horsepower (210 kW) version of the same engine with higher 10.5 to 1 compression ratio. Available as a no-cost option with the Hydramatic transmission was the 215-horsepower 389 (dubbed the Economy V8) with 8.6 to 1 compression ratio which burned cheaper regular gasoline, instead of the premium and super-premium fuels required for the high-compression engines, and capable of achieving more than 20 MPG on the highway."

    One thing to note is that this car sat for about 12 years at my POP's house after he died. It took hurricane damage from a tree and I just didn't have the time or $ to get it towed to my house and fix it. Should I remove the TBA and clean it? I notice when the TB chokes a bit, I see the PSI dip a tad. Maybe I should remove the regulator, clean it out and put a new spring in? I'm not even sure how to replace it.

    EDIT: I found the engine code just now. A1, which signifies 283 HP according to the below link. Crap, I've been putting the cheap gas in it. According to the above, it says to use premium or super premium. You think that's it?!

    http://www.oldride.com/library/1960_..._catalina.html

    Thanks, Dale
    Last edited by dkyork; 03-22-2014 at 06:57 PM.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkyork View Post
    Maybe I should remove the regulator, clean it out and put a new spring in? I'm not even sure how to replace it.
    http://www.holley.com/512-1.asp (Fuel Pressure Regulator Service Kit)

    Crap, I've been putting the cheap gas in it. According to the above, it says to use premium or super premium. You think that's it?!
    No.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #19

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    Thanks Danny,
    I'll do this and also replace the hoses on the TB. I'll try bumping up the PSI to 18, and see if that gives it a bit more gas. I wonder if my TPS setting is out of whack since I adjust the mechanical idle screw so much. Actually, are the two dependent on each other? That's going to suck trying to get it set right, going back an forth and all.

    I'll let you know Danny, and thanks or your guidance. If there's any other direction you can point me in, please let me know. Dale

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkyork View Post
    I wonder if my TPS setting is out of whack since I adjust the mechanical idle screw so much. Actually, are the two dependent on each other?
    Of course it does. The TPS voltage at idle (on those early systems) has to be set at .63-.65 volts.
    This is imperative for proper operation. If you adjust the idle speed, you must also reset the TPS sensor voltage at idle.

    I'll let you know Danny, and thanks or your guidance. If there's any other direction you can point me in, please let me know.
    You don't want to know what I think of that EFI system:
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....-Pro-Jection-4 (Related Forum Thread)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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