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Thread: Crank Sensor & Trigger Wheel

  1. #1

    Default Crank Sensor & Trigger Wheel

    I'm setting up a Holley wheel on my blower hub now and am about 1/2 way on making the brackets for the sensor- but I still need to get that sensor and shims to fit it- I can't find a part number for them, does anyone know what they are?
    I'm trying to get close to the area and then layout a wheel to fit the hub. I don't suppose there is a wheel that's close to a blower hub bolt pattern now? It looks like I am going to have to start with a blank and lay it out to fit but something may already be a close match? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by prophet455 View Post
    I can't find a part number for them, does anyone know what they are?
    http://www.holley.com/554-117.asp (Holley 60-2 Crank Sensor)

    I don't suppose there is a wheel that's close to a blower hub bolt pattern now?
    I don't know, but Miller's Mule Machine & Design can custom make a 60-2 trigger wheel.
    Jason at Miller's Mule Machine & Design made my 6 inch trigger wheel with a 1.375" hole for $40. (I fabricated everything else.)
    However, if you send him your damper (or whatever you're attaching to) he can also mount the trigger wheel, and provide a universal crank sensor bracket.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

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    Thanks Danny, I saw you used a Cherry sensor. Since I'm modifying an MSD mount, is there a sensor that would be a more drop-in for that mounting system?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by prophet455 View Post
    Since I'm modifying an MSD mount, is there a sensor that would be a more drop-in for that mounting system?
    Not that I know of. However, you can use an MSD Flying Magnet crank trigger kit with Holley's DIS.
    You don't have to use the 60-2 type of crank trigger kit. Although, this will require a cam sync unit.
    Holley's 554-118 Hall-Effect crank sensor is a direct replacement for the MSD magnetic crank sensor.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5
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    Hey Danny, if you send a damper out to Millers, do you need to send instructions on what position to mount the wheel, or is that pretty universal if your mounting the sensor on the passenger side? Actually, I'm thinking of picking up from the drivers side for ease of wiring. I wouldn't want to send it off, then get a call that says "how do you need it positioned"?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick90lx View Post
    Hey Danny, if you send a damper out to Millers, do you need to send instructions on what position to mount the wheel...
    This depends on how the 60-2 trigger wheel will be attached to the damper.
    If it's a fixed mounting design, he'll need to know the exact wheel position.
    Since most people won't know this until everything is all bolted together,
    it's best to design 360° of rotational adjustability into the 60-2 trigger wheel.
    Slotted mounting holes, or numerous mounting holes for infinite positioning (LINK).

    The installed crank sensor mounting location is what matters, not the damper.
    The damper aspect is only to position the #1 cylinder at TDC, on the compression stroke.
    In other words, the trigger wheel mounting position has no relation to the damper; it's related to the crank sensor.

    Remember, for custom 60-2 crank trigger installations, the crank sensor mounting bracket can be positioned anywhere around the trigger wheel.
    The 9th, 10th, 11th or 12th tooth (after the missing teeth) just needs to align with the crank sensor, with the #1 cylinder at TDC.
    Since it's "waste-spark" ignition, it doesn't matter if the TDC #1 cylinder position is on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke.
    If using a single pulse cam sync, its 110°-250° BTDC #1 cylinder position MUST be on the compression stroke (not the exhaust stroke)!
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #7
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    The slotted design makes a lot of sense. I was having a hard time picturing it, those links helped. Thank you.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick90lx View Post
    The slotted design makes a lot of sense. I was having a hard time picturing it, those links helped. Thank you.
    You're welcome. Holley's SBC/BBC 60-2 trigger wheel is also slotted, but not as much (Link), because they know where the crank sensor is located (Link).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #9

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    Did you have to run a resistor with the Cherry sensor or was a pretty straight forward drop in to the system? I like the threaded body. Since I have to make the mounts- it gives me a little more adjustment. I assume it is still .015-.030 target? (I know you ran at .028").

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Remember, for custom 60-2 crank trigger installations, the crank sensor mounting bracket can be positioned anywhere around the trigger wheel.
    The 9th, 10th or 11th tooth (after the missing teeth) just needs to align with the crank sensor, with the #1 cylinder at TDC.
    Since it's "waste-spark" ignition, it doesn't matter if the TDC #1 cylinder position is on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke.
    If using a single pulse cam sync, its 110°-250° BTDC #1 cylinder position MUST be on the compression stroke (not the exhaust stroke)!
    Danny, I don't understand this comment (my ignorance).
    If I'm running a DIS setup and my crank trigger sensor is at the 9th or 10th tooth after how would the engine know where TDC is?
    I thought the trailing edge of the missing teeth gap had to line up with TDC. Does my question make sense? Tom

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