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Thread: 1st Gen Pro-Jection Tuning Issue.

  1. #1

    Default 1st Gen Pro-Jection Tuning Issue.

    Hi. I have installed a brand new Holley Pro-Jection 1st generation.
    I have a 900 cfm throttle body and a 700 cfm.
    Can't get it tuned right.

    Details:
    383 Chevy stroker 9.5 compression.
    Edelbrock intake rpm cam.
    MSD DIS ignition.

    Innovate wideband A/F ratio meter.
    I have the fuel pump connected with a relay.
    If I tune the mid 3000 rpm A/F ratio 14.

    The idle becomes too lean. Increased the TPS senor, but can't hit the target.
    I have the mid range maxed too lean, looks like the mid section is too rich. And the idle to lean cant get them together.
    Increased the TPS sensor in steps 0.98 is too rich and all the knobs are leaned out max step back with 0.05V.
    But still they don't come close, I still need to dial rich on the idle to keep it running.

    I have tried the 700 cfm but needed pow1 & pow2 maxed out to keep it running.
    But still mid is really rich and need to lean it out to the max. Got the TPS set on 0.95 and got the idle and mid close together.
    But overall it was too lean and had no dial range so I think the 700 cfm is too small.

    The tuning I did, tune mid 3000 rpm A/F ratio to 14 then idle, but idle is too lean increased the TPS sensor in 0.10V steps.
    Till 0.95 to get idle richer, but then the mid is way too rich. They are too far off each other.

    Fuel return line pressure is 8 psi. Decreased & increased pressure, no success.
    What can I do to make it work, it must be possible? Leon from the Netherlands.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,676

    Default

    Sounds like you've done everything you can do. Some engines simply won't tolerate the very limited tuning control that the hand-held calibration module offers.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Don't you think I overlooked something or what I can try?
    Would Holley have told me back in the day? Oh bummer buster.
    Some engines don't work. If it was a Nissan OK, but it's a SBC.
    How can I make the mid leaner, lower fuel pressure?
    There must be someone that's done this a couple of times the tuning of a first gen.
    Thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,676

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vettebak View Post
    How can I make the mid leaner, lower fuel pressure?
    You said you already tried that (unsuccessful).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    I'm certainly no expert on these, but I did play with one for awhile, (used) before going to a (used) Commander 950, and now upgraded to HP EFI.
    I would think you would be better off with the smaller throttle body as it likely has smaller injectors.
    Have you checked return line pressure drop? I've forgotten the allowable, but the smaller the return, the less dependable that pressure regulation is.
    You might experiment with replacing the temperature sensor --even temporarily-- with a pot that you can manually adjust.
    I assume that you've checked the TPS for proper alignment and operation.
    How about the "big block/small block" wire which switches the Fuel Maps, (forget off the top of my head) how do you have that setup?

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