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Thread: Up & running but with startup issues.

  1. #21

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    It's funny you suggested a new distributor. I came across this FAST unit. What are your thoughts on this piece. Does it look compatible?
    It doesn't seem like there is much out there for a 351C. If switching to a computer controlled distributor, the MSD box is eliminated correct?
    http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/ford...istributorhtml

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehkohler View Post
    I came across this FAST unit. What are your thoughts on this piece. Does it look compatible?
    Yes, it's compatible and this is how it's done: http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ons-Holley-EFI (FAST Dual Sync Distributor)
    Nice thing about it is, it also supports sequential injection if you ever convert to multi-port EFI. But so does the Ford TFI, which is easier to setup.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #23

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    I think I'm gonna spring for the new distributor. But before I do, just to be clear: In fig. 11 on pg. 19 they feature a crank trigger. When using the distributor I'm essentially ignoring the crank trigger in the diagram and replacing it with the new FAST distributor, correct? I'm NOT running a crank trigger as well, right?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehkohler View Post
    When using the distributor, I'm essentially ignoring the crank trigger in the diagram and replacing it with the new FAST distributor, correct?
    Correct.

    I'm NOT running a crank trigger as well, right?
    Correct.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #25

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    Whoa!!! Let's hold on a minute! Disregard my last post. After looking at those instructions and realizing a crank trigger can be used, I might save myself $350. I have a crank trigger for this engine. So here we go again with the questions. (I'm sorry for beating you up with all these questions but I am a newbie with this EFI stuff.) With that being said and seeing as how I have an MSD crank trigger. Correct me, if I'm wrong but I think I would need to refer to figure 9 on page 17, correct?

    #1. In figure 9 on page 17, there's a small diagram of showing the order of components. It shows like this (crank trigger)-(Holley EFI)-(CD box)-(coil)-(spark plug). When it shows from 'coil' to 'spark plug', I'm assuming that "spark plug" means to a 'LOCKED OUT' distributor then to the plugs, correct? I just wanna make sure that the distributor is still used to simply send spark to the plugs.

    #2. When using the crank trigger, what are the setup/syncing procedures? I mean do I set the crank trigger up the same as I would under a carbed setup? (Meaning rotate the motor on the compression stroke to a desired degree and the insert the distributor with the rotor pointing to #1 on the cap?) When doing this, what is the base/beginning 'desired' timing value to get me in the ball park? 25° 40°?

    #3. If the ECU will be controlling timing, there will be no need to be adjusting the magnetic pickup on the arm other than to initially set things up, correct?

    #4. When using this ignition setup, do I have to upgrade to the HP software and tune the system off the computer, or can I still use the hand-held?

    For questions #2 & #4, is there a link or formal step-by-step instructions for me to refer to? Thank you.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehkohler View Post
    Correct me, if I'm wrong but I think I would need to refer to figure 9 on page 17, correct?
    Don't use the MSD magnetic crank sensor.
    If using an MSD Flying Magnet crank trigger kit, it's highly recommended to use Holley's 554-118 Hall-Effect replacement (direct-fit) crank sensor.

    #1. I just wanna make sure that the distributor is still used to simply send spark to the plugs.
    Yes, that's correct. With a crank trigger, turning the distributor only adjusts rotor phasing.
    The crank sensor sliding bracket, now does the task that turning the distributor once did.

    #2. When using the crank trigger, what are the setup/syncing procedures? I mean do I set the crank trigger up the same as I would under a carbed setup?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....m-Sensor-Setup (Magnetic & Hall-Effect Crank/Cam Sensor Setup)

    When doing this, what is the base/beginning 'desired' timing value to get me in the ball park? 25° 40°?
    Again, if you don't know your engine's timing requirements, just use the Timing Table in the Global Folder.

    #3. If the ECU will be controlling timing, there will be no need to be adjusting the magnetic pickup on the arm other than to initially set things up, correct?
    Correct, the crank sensor adjustment will only be used to initially setup the timing synchronization at idle.

    #4. When using this ignition setup, do I have to upgrade to the HP software and tune the system off the computer, or can I still use the hand-held?
    The latest V2 software can be downloaded here: http://www.holley.com/TechService/Li...#FuelInjection
    Read the 199R10632rev5 PDF document for a "V2 Software Update Overview" (in "Holley EFI V2 Instructions").
    Be sure to successfully install the new V2 software, before installing the ECU firmware (read "V2 Update Instructions").
    Ensure the Holley EFI software is not open and the ECU is not powered on/connected when installing the new software.

    Software & Firmware Versions:
    Software: click "Help" tab (top toolbar) & "About Holley EFI".
    Firmware: click "Sync With ECU" & "Get ECU Info" (Key-on/USB connected).
    The latest software & firmware can be downloaded here:
    http://www.holley.com/TechService/Li...#FuelInjection (Holley EFI Technical Library)
    http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...9R10546rev.pdf (HP & Dominator Quick Start Guide)
    http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...20Firmware.pdf (How To Update ECU Firmware)
    Before updating firmware, ensure the current Global Folder is saved somewhere, since it will be erased from the ECU.

    EFI Software Help Information/Instructions:
    ‒ On the top Toolbar, click "Help" & "Contents". This opens all Help topics.
    ‒ When navigating the software, click "Help ?", drag it to any parameter and click again.
    ..This automatically opens the definitions for that specific parameter.
    ‒ Tuning information can be read by clicking the F1 key, when you're viewing any screen.
    http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...10555rev11.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #27

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    OK, that all seems pretty straight and I think I can handle that. But I have one more question for tonight.
    - Is there a harness for the Hall-Effect sensor other than part #558-306 that ONLY has the wires for the Hall-Effect sensor and NOT the cam sensor?
    (I'm gonna have almost as much in a sensor and harness as a new distributor. Ha Ha!)
    - Oh, and real quick..I have a fuel pressure gauge mounted at the regulator and then one in the interior.
    How critical is it to have the transducer #554-102 installed and hooked up to the ECU?

    Harness 558-410, might that be a possibility? Maybe I could just use the plug for the crank (and if needed reposition the wires in the 10 pin plug that goes to the harness), and then just tuck the cam sensor plug away. Do you have an idea how long this harness is? (It's funny, a fully assembled harness is $50 cheaper than the one the user has to assemble...but $50 is $50!)

    As always, thank you Danny. I'd be screwed without your help!!!
    Last edited by ehkohler; 10-12-2013 at 10:45 PM.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehkohler View Post
    How critical is it to have the transducer #554-102 installed and hooked up to the ECU?
    Holley's oil & fuel pressure transducers are optional for Data Monitoring and Data Logging purposes.
    With them, you can also create custom programmable I/O...but that's another discussion.

    Harness 558-410, might that be a possibility? Maybe I could just use the plug for the crank (and if needed reposition the wires in the 10 pin plug that goes to the harness)...
    Yes, you can use the 558-410 ignition harness. One of the connectors is correct for Holley's 554-118 Hall-Effect crank sensor.
    As you said, you'll just need to repin it for the crank sensor signal, because the correct connector is wired for the cam sync sensor.
    Note: Because the correct connector is wired for the cam sync sensor, it's too short to reach the crank sensor location.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #29

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    Well good news. I got things sorted out for now. I added a vacuum line to the regulator and then I started a new calibration. Once I did that and got it fired up, I advanced the timing to about 20°. Then the hand held kept showing it wanted more like 25°, so I put it at 25°. I let it warn up and start Learning. Then I took it to the streets. I brought it back and knocked the timing back to 20°, because 25° initial and then 18° advance, I had way too much timing and not enough compression or octane. So the 20° & 18° seemed safe at 38°. It ran well. It obviously needs to Learn more and for some reason I lost my IAC setting, so a TPS AutoSet was done. But none the less it seems I'm on the right track.

    But I'll be starting from scratch again once I install the crank trigger. So don't think your in the clear yet Danny. Regardless thanks for your patience and the help.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehkohler View Post
    But I'll be starting from scratch again once I install the crank trigger.
    No need to "start from scratch", just change your Ignition Parameters.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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