Hey guys. Wondering if you could help me out. I have a Holley 650 Street Avenger that won't start my SBC. It sounds like it wants to start ONLY when I use starting fluid, but doesn't actually run. Even if I crack the throttle, I can see the fuel squirt in there, but I get no response. Fuel psi is steady 6. Any ideas?
SBC only wants to start with starter fluid.
Collapse
X
-
You need 3 things for the engine to run.
1. Air.
2. Fuel.
3. Spark.
I would check timing, then check spark at all the plugs.
I said all. Because I fixed a V8 that had seven bad plugs. It only had 2 hours of run time on the new plugs.On behalf of every manufacturer, delivery drivers, supply chain representatives, and workers of the world, "We're Sorry."
-
-
As stated above. Make sure your actually getting spark to the plugs.
Check your firing order, and make sure your #1 plug is where the rotor is pointing at on the distributor. If you have to, pull the cap and the #1 spark plug. Put your finger over the plug hole and turn it over. Watch the rotor every time it pops your finger, so you know where #1 should be firing.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by 69cam View PostAs stated above. Make sure your actually getting spark to the plugs.
Check your firing order, and make sure your #1 plug is where the rotor is pointing at on the distributor. If you have to, pull the cap and the #1 spark plug. Put your finger over the plug hole and turn it over. Watch the rotor every time it pops your finger, so you know where #1 should be firing.
I'm not pumping the pedal, because I really want to avoid flooding it.
I've done it before. So I've only been using starter fluid. But carb does squirt out fuel as it should.
Today, I threw in a fresh set of plugs. Triple checks wires are going to correct cylinder.
Also, I know timing is correct, as I used a piston stop on cylinder #1 on compression stroke.
It rotated backwards and divided between the two marks to find true top dead.
I was getting some backfire out the carb, but rotated distributor until it stopped happening.
I was able to get it to run for about 3 sec. By continuously spraying starting fluid.
Comment
-
-
I always pop off a valve cover, and watch that the intake valve is closing, to find top dead center.
Did you screw the idle all the way in, then out 1-1/2 turns? There's two of them.On behalf of every manufacturer, delivery drivers, supply chain representatives, and workers of the world, "We're Sorry."
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by BITE_ME View PostI always pop off a valve cover, and watch that the intake valve is closing, to find top dead center.
Did you screw the idle all the way in, then out 1-1/2 turns? There's two of them.
Would you mind looking over this pic? Anything out of the ordinary?
That hole in the middle, and the ones above & under it, look really black?
To they feed fuel for idle?
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Alxrez View PostThat hole in the middle, and the ones above & under it, look really black?
The two center screws aren't utilized because if they loosen, the engine would ingest them.
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....&p=686#post686 (Similar Forum Thread)
That center fitting, looks like a replaceable idle air bleed jet. (?)
To they feed fuel for idle?May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
Comment
-
-
On the lower right is the most infamous Holley set screw.
It's used to help tune the carb some times. If the idle mixture screw have no effect when turned.
Do to the fact that Holley's and any carburetor that has separate primary & secondary fuel bowls.
The fuel in the secondary will get old. So the secondaries need to be open just a small amount to allow fresh fuel in the secondary bowl all the time.
Anyway: I would remove the idle mixture screws, and spray some compressed air/carburetor cleaner in their mounting holes.On behalf of every manufacturer, delivery drivers, supply chain representatives, and workers of the world, "We're Sorry."
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Alxrez View PostDo you think if it was clogged, it would keep the car from idling?May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Alxrez View PostDo you think if it was clogged, it would keep the car from idling?
It should still start up if it's plugged.
Edit: The internet sucks.
It does not know what that part is for.
I've got 8 Edelbrocks, and 3 Rochester's. But no Holley's in front of me to see what passage it goes too.Last edited by BITE_ME; 03-15-2015, 07:03 PM.On behalf of every manufacturer, delivery drivers, supply chain representatives, and workers of the world, "We're Sorry."
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Alxrez View PostI'm running a line from the "full vacuum manifold" port to a vacuum tee that's on the manifold. Is this right would this cause it not to idle?
Or putting it another way: You don't put two "suckers" together. One "sucker" could be stronger than the other.
Are you sure your using the right spark plugs?
What's the make & model of the cylinder heads and spark plugs?On behalf of every manufacturer, delivery drivers, supply chain representatives, and workers of the world, "We're Sorry."
Comment
-
Comment