Major Issues After Install

[Danny Cabral]

Changing the distributor doesn't change the actual tuning (if you had ECU controlled timing beforehand). Check the ignition timing synchronization (LINK), not the tuning.

Originally Posted by Danny Cabral The Target Air/Fuel Ratio Table & Base Fuel/Timing Table (and MAP kPa & RPM axes/scales) should be configured using the Sniper EFI software: In the Sniper EFI software (LINK), Target Air/Fuel Ratio Table (Fuel ICF) & Base Timing Table (Spark ICF), select "2D Table" Type (not "Simple"). The Target Air/Fuel Ratio Table & Base Timing Table can then be properly configured & tuned for any engine. I always suggest taking notes of your current distributor's ignition timing specs/curves beforehand, and then program the Base Timing Table accordingly. https://www.holley.com/support/resou...Fuel_Injection (Sniper EFI Software & Holley 558-443 CAN/USB Dongle) https://forums.holley.com/showthread...679#post100679 (Sniper EFI Optional Comm/Data Cable Accessories)

[rschid]

Danny, do you have a link for timing synchronization? Maybe that's my issue.
EDIT: Never mind, I found your post. Does this also apply to the HyperSpark?

[Danny Cabral]

Does this also apply to the HyperSpark?

http://documents.holley.com/199r11525.pdf (Holley/Sniper HyperSpark Distributor Instructions)

[rschid]

Thanks Danny, I knew I missed something.

[Danny Cabral]

You're welcome.

[rschid]

UPDATE. So this morning I put a fresh set of spark plugs in the car, and then completed the step of the install that I had skipped (in my excitement to try it out) and the thing runs like a top. (Thanks Danny!) Without a doubt my problems were self inflicted with the ignition system install. If you're experiencing backfire, stalling and just a poor running engine, go back, double check that you have competed all the steps. In my case, my Inductive Delay ended up at 140 instead of 100.

[Danny Cabral]

...then completed the step of the install that I had skipped (in my excitement to try it out) and the thing runs like a top. (Thanks Danny!)

You're welcome.

[MrSinister55]

Ditching the switch and going direct to the battery with the pink wire didn't work. I'm noticing the hotter the engine gets, the worse the symptoms are, but it has to be hot for them to start at all. That sounds like ignition interference, possibly from the coil. Coil gets hot, resistance goes up, and I get crazy RFI. Maybe, I don't know. I'm glad I'm bald because I'd be pulling my hair out. I also noticed my handheld freaking out again and the shift light on my tach flashing in time with the handheld glitches. I've never seen it do this before. Seems like it's definitely interference, but from what? Could the tach be causing it, or is it just being affected by the same interference? Here's a few videos. Is this worse than typical RFI? I don't want to just start replacing parts and hoping.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Diro-9Ueu5M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhpI3xyW6yU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyVeiSgQ4u0

[81 TransAm]

I can't remember, but did you do any testing with the alternator unplugged?

[MrSinister55]

I can't remember, but did you do any testing with the alternator unplugged.

I have not. Should I just pull the battery wire? Removing the belt stops my water pump, so that's a no go.

[81 TransAm]

What alternator are you using? Is it a SI10? If so, just pull the trigger plug and remove the wire going to the battery.

[MrSinister55]

It's a cheap 1-wire deal. Unplugged the battery cable from the alternator. No difference. I also have a nasty miss now. This is killing me. I have a spare coil. It's a Blaster 2 epoxy filled high vibration model. Would it be worth swapping out?

[81 TransAm]

What are you using for plugs & wires?

[MrSinister55]

Been there already. New last year Moroso Ultra 40 wires & NGK resistor plugs.
So far, this is what I've tried to no avail:
Disconnecting alternator.
Changing to resistor spark plugs.
Connecting the pink wire directly to the battery.
Adding several more battery grounds to both the block and frame.
Grounding the alternator case.
RFI wrap on the alternator cable and harness.
RFI wrap on the distributor cap and plug wire ends.
RFI shielding on the coil.
RFI shielding on the front and rear of the Sniper unit.
Changing my air cleaner so it doesn't touch the plug wires.
Rerouting Sniper wiring to get it as far away from everything else as possible.

My last attempt will be swapping my coil out for a spare I have with maybe a couple hundred miles on it. After that, this thing is going back to Holley to either get fixed, or returned. I don't know what the record is for time spent trying to make one of these things work, but I bet I own it. It's been six weeks since install, and most of my free time has gone to fighting with this thing. The added stress is also not needed. The new miss I've developed is worrying, and I'm seriously concerned about hurting the engine at this point. I think anyone who saw this thing in person when it acts up wouldn't find that statement unreasonable.

[Danny Cabral]

FYI: It's not safe to run an alternator with the wiring disconnected; remove the alternator belt (safe alternator test).
It's only a momentary test, so the engine won't overheat. Use a shorter water pump belt if you have to.
http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf (Alternator AC Ripple Voltage Test)
http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/aut...e/beatbook.pdf (Fluke Multimeter Testing - Page 3 & 4)
https://forums.holley.com/showthread...0251#post50251 (Related Forum Thread)