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  • #46
    Well I ran it for a good while earlier. Long enough to get the coolant to 195 which is hotter than it runs going down the road by 20-30 degrees (seriously). Didn't act up at all. Tried revving it, tried putting it in any out of gear, nothing.
    I haven't tried it with the alternator unhooked, there's no point if it won't act up sitting in the driveway. Alternator is a brand new 1 wire deal I installed last year with a new 2 gauge cable to the starter, for reference.

    My only thought there is take it to a shop with a dyno to try and reproduce the problems, but I'm already over $2k into this thing buying the Sniper Master Kit and dual sync and trying to make it work, and I'll be damned if I spend $100 an hour on a dyno or $75 a pop getting it towed home every time I try to test drive it or get a data log. I've burned through a tank of gas already and put maybe 20 miles on it. It's absolutely devouring fuel and is definitely not normal. I mean I could have put an LS in it for this money. Say my alternator is somehow causing issues, which makes no sense to me considering the circumstances. Now I gotta buy a new alternator too?

    Something is seriously wrong with this thing. I went from a strong running car with my old carb and CDI setup to this. I'm not trying to give you crap and I do appreciate the input, but why would RFI/EMI only show up after the car is fully warmed up and been driven? I would think it would always be there, or at least be RPM based, or even repeatable with some sort of pattern other than actually driving it. It would not run at all Friday night after it started its crap. But it starts and idles perfectly in my driveway after a total cool down. That just does not sound like interference to me. Even if it is, I'm not throwing another dime at this setup with the hopes that the next chunk of cash I burn on it fixed it. How am I supposed to trust this thing after this? How do I know it won't decide to crap out on me again, but maybe 100 miles from home next time? I really want this thing to work, but at what point is it just burning time and money? This is unbelievably frustrating, and has been far from what I was led to believe it would be. I was totally prepared for learning time and having to fine tune, but this is ridiculous.

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    • #47
      Originally posted by Twisted Z View Post
      This was, again, with the car EFI running off it's own battery not hooked to the car system at all. My system seems to be fixed. It had nothing to do with anything people had pointed out, ALL Good advice BTW. See the thread I listed above. It is something in the handheld and it makes ZERO sense at all.
      Can you post exact what you did, because in your thread it's not very clear.
      1964 Chevy Nova, 383 Stroker, AFR 210 Heads, Ford 9inch w/TrueTrac/3.90 Gears, Powerglide Transmission. www.SoCalStreetCars.com

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      • #48
        Where did you buy it? Maybe you got a faulty ECU or something and need to send it back. What's the model number of the alternator you bought?
        1964 Chevy Nova, 383 Stroker, AFR 210 Heads, Ford 9inch w/TrueTrac/3.90 Gears, Powerglide Transmission. www.SoCalStreetCars.com

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        • #49
          Originally posted by RPnova View Post
          Can you post exact what you did, because in your thread it's not very clear.
          https://forums.holley.com/showthread...203#post104203

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          • #50
            Originally posted by RPnova View Post
            Where did you buy it? Maybe you got a faulty ECU or something and need to send it back. What's the model number of the alternator you bought?
            Bought it from Summit. They told me I need to have Holley tell them it's OK before they'll take anything back. I contacted Holley tech support yesterday and sent them a datalog of it idling perfectly, because again, it only acts up after driving. It will idle happily all day if I don't drive it. This is the alternator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
            Last edited by MrSinister55; 06-19-2018, 07:24 AM.

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            • #51
              Here's what I sent to Holley:
              https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsmWOSb6Xb-dgzGCIn4iArgv_krN
              https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsmWOSb6Xb-dgzNAeLme5bXN-OOr

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              • #52
                Got a few more datalogs this afternoon of the problems. Didn't leave my neighborhood, so it wasn't full blown with backfires and shooting flames from the exhaust, but this is what it does after being driven for about 10 minutes.
                https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsmWOSb6Xb-dgzVp-GOc9Yvd-aWo
                https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsmWOSb6Xb-dgzY3vAA73Rt11rm_
                https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsmWOSb6Xb-dgzcUNSOd3JFdB88P

                Also took a video of how rich this thing is at idle when cold. This is through the tailpipes, I had the cutouts open, so it's even worse than it looks here.
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlIROHKdR_U

                Here's what the handheld does when it's crapping out.
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4vazaza6BM

                I don't have any custom config files in that folder. Should I just upload what's in the base config folder?

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                • #53
                  From your YouTube video, it looks like the ECU is turning off for a second then back on. Where are you getting your ignition source from? Have you tried putting the ignition trigger wire directly to the battery?

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                  • #54
                    My best guess at this point is the ECU gets stuck in some kind of programming loop.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by 81 TransAm View Post
                      From your YouTube video, it looks like the ECU is turning off for a second then back on. Where are you getting your ignition source from? Have you tried putting the ignition trigger wire directly to the battery?
                      Ignition wire is connected to a three position switch that is connected directly to the battery. The switch was used to trigger the old CDI box before I removed it, and it never had any issues there. Doesn't mean it's still good, I understand. Only the Sniper pink wire is connected to the switch, there's nothing on the third pole on the switch. So say I remove the switch, splice the wire, and do more testing. Does that sound reasonable? What if it changes nothing? What you're saying makes total sense. What doesn't make sense is why it will only act up after being driven a bit. I assume the handheld stays running from the battery feed?
                      Last edited by MrSinister55; 06-19-2018, 06:49 PM.

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                      • #56
                        You must wire the pink 12 volt to a clean source such as the ignition switch. You need to wire the pink wire to the ignition switch. I have seen similar conditions as yours where the engine pops, backfires, and eventually stalls out. Although the ones I have seen the handheld flashes red and it says stall then eventually the engine stalls out but exactly as yours is doing. All of this is due to the the pink wire location. People think that the 12 volt wire can go any where when in fact it can not. The pink wire must go to a clean 12 volt source which is the ignition switch. I'm betting that 3 prong switch is not a CLEAN source and giving you all the problems.

                        After looking at your datalogs, the pink wire is the wire which causing all that RFI noise. It's not a clean source.

                        Also, it's going to be rich until the Sniper has a chance to Learn a little bit. And since yours is truly not running correctly yet, it should be rich, but it will clean up.

                        Go to Pep Boys and buy chair connectors. It will allow you to put two female spade connectors in one male spade connector so you don't have to splice. And you'll need one female spade connector for the pink 12 volt wire and be done with it.
                        Last edited by RPnova; 06-20-2018, 12:01 AM.
                        1964 Chevy Nova, 383 Stroker, AFR 210 Heads, Ford 9inch w/TrueTrac/3.90 Gears, Powerglide Transmission. www.SoCalStreetCars.com

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                        • #57
                          I'm very hesitant to touch that ignition switch wiring again. It's a mess back there, but I think I got rid of the worst of it when I went to put the coil hot on the ignition switch where it should have been. I'll do it if it will fix it.
                          This is on original style '55 ignition switch that's been jumped out from removing the ballast resistor. That will be cleaner than a switch going directly to the battery? The Sniper pink sharing the same spot as the hot for the coil is not going to cause problems?

                          Just for reference, I asked about triggering via a switch, but never got an answer on it: https://forums.holley.com/showthread...before-install

                          I want to say thanks to everyone for their input so far. It's definitely been frustrating, and I'm trying to be patient and not let it get the best of me.

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                          • #58
                            As a test run, the pink wire directly to the battery to see if it helps. If it does, then put a switch in that line.

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by 81 TransAm View Post
                              As a test run, the pink wire directly to the battery to see if it helps. If it does, then put a switch in that line.
                              A new switch. ;)
                              That's how it's setup now, but the switch could be suspect. The more I think about it, the open pole on that switch is probably not a good thing.
                              So do I need to go directly to the ignition switch with the pink wire, or can I replace my inline switch? I'm seeing conflicting things, and both of you guys have a lot more experience with this system than me.

                              EDIT: Emailed my datalogs and some other pertinent info to the guy I spoke to at Holley on Monday evening, and more datalogs again yesterday. Have not heard back yet. Is this normal?
                              Last edited by MrSinister55; 06-20-2018, 09:14 AM.

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                              • #60
                                From your own comments about the wiring being a mess and using an original '55 jumped out ignition switch, it's no wonder you're chasing your tail. I mistakenly ran the pink power wire to an accessory position on my fuse panel. Had all sorts of problems, like you, until I realized my mistake. Apparently, there's a reason it's printed in bold multiple times in the installation manual that you MUST have a clean power source. I ran my pink directly to the batteries as a test and it fixed it, instantly & permanently.

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