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Holley vs Sniper in-tank retrofit returnless which one?

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  • Holley vs Sniper in-tank retrofit returnless which one?

    Good Morning! I'm at the point of my install that I need to consider the fuel system. I know I'm going with the returnless in-tank retro fit.
    Comparing the Holley 12-158 Diecast In-Tank Retrofit Fuel Pump Modules vs the Holley Sniper 19-360 In-Tank Retrofit Fuel Pump Modules
    I see the HydraMat on the Holley unit and the Sniper has the 340 LPH pump also around a couple hundred bucks cheaper.
    I trust you guys to point me in the right direction. The Holley worth the extra $$ or is the Sniper good enough? Thanks! Also, any experiences you can share with either are welcome as well.

  • #2
    What engine and what HP range? You need to pick a pump that is just above your requirement. A 340 LPH pump on a 300 HP engine is overkill and pump will be constantly bypassing fuel which could conceivably end up heating up the fuel in your tank. If your engine requires 200 LPH, 340 will not provide any benefit. With a returnless system there is a potential for fuel pulsations at the Sniper. A pressure damper would be well advised. Use the search function to find posts about these pulsations. Also purchase an in-line pressure setup to mount up at the Sniper to confirm a steady pressure. I think in the long run you will pay more for a returnless system as compared to the cost and time in running a return line. There are a number of flexible EFI rated hoses, fittings, and hard lines that make the job pretty easy.

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    • #3
      First off thanks for the fast response! This is going on a SBF 347, sub-400 HP. Cruiser, no drag racing. Yes, I have a fuel pressure gauge. Right now the fuel line is the 3/8" Vapor Guard Tank to TBI. Future plans are to convert to braided line. My thoughts where with the rubber lines, it would decrease the fuel pulsing versus hard-line/rubber line combinations. Is that wrong thinking? But yes, I can add a Radium fuel damper.

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      • #4
        Not sure what you're putting it in, but I'm building a similar 347 and I'm using an Aeromotive tank for a 1970 Mustang. I'm using an external regulator near the tank with a return line back into the tank. You could do something similar, use a regular pump and then an external regulator in back. If the pump fails, all you have to do is replace the pump instead of an internally regulated pump. With an external regulator you have an option of setting your fuel pressure. The Aeromotive tank I'm using is 200 LPH. My truck I used a retrofit Holley pump and ran a return line, but an external regulator returning to the pump would have worked. Some braided lines tend to weep gas vapors and may not work as well as the Vapor Guard hose that you currently have. Some systems will have pulsations regardless of hard lines or tubing so you won't really know until you have it hooked up.

        For the initial setup on the truck, I'm using the Corvette filter/regulator with return line. The actual return will only be about 12". The Corvette fuel pressure regulator works well with the 200 LPH pump, but Aeromotive does not recommend its use on their 340 LPH option. I think the issues that they outline with the small regulator versus big flow also apply to other pumps when they constantly bypass unneeded flow. https://aeromotiveinc.com/aeromotive...gulator-combo/

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        • #5
          Originally posted by GPatrick View Post
          Some braided lines tend to weep gas vapors and may not work as well as the Vapor Guard hose that you currently have.
          Not if the inner fuel hose is PTFE (Teflon). FYI: Earl's Speed Flex -6AN stainless steel braided PTFE hose & Speed Seal fittings is the best fuel line I've ever used.
          Additional Information: https://forums.holley.com/showthread...6686#post96686 (Holley Sniper EFI Fuel System Plumbing - Posts #2, #6, #14)
          May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
          '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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          • #6
            In my defense, I did say "some". Thanks for the link the the Earls. I have an upcoming project that needs it.

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            • #7
              Yeah, I know. You weren't wrong. This link has a lot of useful information: https://forums.holley.com/showthread...nts-amp-Clamps (Proper EFI Hose, Sealants & Clamps)
              May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
              '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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              • #8
                So with my engine configuration, should I go Holley or Sniper in-tank? This is in a '64 Fairlane.

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                • #9
                  Neither of those retrofit modules look very good to me. I'd want to see how they actually fit and seal into a stock gas tank before I bought one. I haven't seen one in person, but the pictures on the website look like a poor design.

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                  • #10
                    Well, it looks like I'm going with the external fuel regulator setup. The Holley retrofit pump has a minimal tank depth of 7" and my Fairlane's tank is about 6.25". I was considering installing the return line bulkhead through the fuel sending unit, and running the return hose close to the fuel pickup so it stay submerged. The sending unit on my Fairlane is kinda in a horizontal position not a vertical. See issues with this?

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                    • #11
                      I've just installed a returnless Sniper 340 pump to a Sniper 2300. The first start & run in the garage was smooth with the fuel pressure gauge needle sitting still at 60 psi. Second start & drive, it appears to be getting fuel hammered judging by the flutter of the gauge needle attached to the Sniper. Is it possible to convert the returnless and retrofit to a return style retro fit pump?
                      Last edited by MPH; 12-29-2021, 09:14 PM.

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                      • #12
                        You may just need a pulsation damper on the system for a returnless setup: http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse...Kits-P759.aspx. There are a variety of configurations and they have some good technical resources on the site. A pump with such high flow may also be an issue, as the regulator will be bypassing a high percentage of the flow.

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                        • #13
                          I'll have a look into them, but deep down I feel a return line is the proper way to do it, if anyone has converted returnless to return. The pump does have high flow. I questioned Holley about it using a returnless system on the Sniper 2300, and was told the pressure regulator on the retro fit pump will be fine to keep up with the 340 pump.

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                          • #14
                            The reason it's a returnless pump assembly is because it has a regulator in the assembly. It does the return at the pump. Read the instructions and it'll tell you how to change the regulator.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by GPatrick View Post
                              You may just need a pulsation damper on the system for a returnless setup: http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse...Kits-P759.aspx. There are a variety of configurations and they have some good technical resources on the site.
                              That's the route I went with my returnless system and it works great.

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