HyperSpark install dies idling.

[Danny Cabral]

In my opinion, an EFI conversion alone warrants a modern style, higher amp alternator. Late Model Restoration (LMR.com) has everything you need (3G alternators & accessory drive brackets), including the alternator 4 AWG premium charge cable kits that feature noise suppression (LMR SVE-9902A).

[ROG]

Hey Danny, thanks for the info. So when we're talking noise, is the MUSTANG SVE 4 GAUGE 3G POWER WIRE KIT PREMIUM with NOISE SUPRESSION the only element to consider for RFI noise? The reason I'm asking, is that as I'm researching an upgrade, no one really advertises "low noise" alternators. Thanks!

[Danny Cabral]

The alternator (not the Ford 3G) and charge cable are capable of producing noise.

[ROG]

@Danny Cabral: Does the cable eliminate the alternator noise?

@GPatrick: I found Danny's post on fixed orifice PCV valves. While Napa is priced at $9.98, Autozone and O'Reilly's are $.98 & $.99 respectively. Is there a difference? Thanks.

@GPatrick: Brakes work fine. Replaced last year with all new hoses & Tee. I'll double check. Thanks.

[GPatrick]

The only downside to AutoZone is that you'll have $9.00 that you'll have to spend on something that you might need. It's a can with a hole in it. Get the cheapie.

If the brakes are working well and you have several assisted brake applications after you turn the engine off your check valve & booster are fine. The booster is just on a list of things to check.

I did some searches on alternators and there's some info on the high-end audio gang, but I'd say that unless an add states "low noise" I'd be hesitant. The 3G is a known quality. I'd put it on a wish list, but it's not a high priority at this point. Just the improved lighting at idle is a good reason and if you upgrade to new headlights that take more power, a good alternator and a headlight relay setup will provide a noticeable improvement.

Have you been able to drive it since Transferring Learning To Base? How's it doing? If the hesitation/stumble is exactly the same, then go ahead and post the datalog and latest Config File and we can see what's going on.

[ROG]

OK, I figured as much. Buyer beware I guess.

Haven't had a chance, grandchildren last weekend and now I get to unload and stack 150 bales of hay, my favorite job. Hopefully later today or tomorrow for sure.

[ROG]

@GPatrick: I've never needed the brakes after I've killed the engine, LOL. I'll test tomorrow.

The website I found (besides Danny's) is: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=17. They have two available, a 130 amp small body 3G and 150 amp mega alternator. I did ask about RFI noise and their response was: There shouldn't be any RFI noise if the unit is hooked up correctly.

We do not recommend a fuse because if you blow that fuse, then you will be left stranded somewhere because your charging system no longer works. EVERY single piece of electrical equipment on your vehicle is already on its own fuse, so if that system has an issue then it will blow that fuse and that system itself will be down, but at least you are still charging your battery to continue down the road.

You will not be able to use your external regulator with the Small Case 3G setup as those are internally regulated and CANNOT be used with an external regulator. The $20 difference is to setup the Mega Amp unit to an externally regulated unit vs internally regulated as we have the option to do so on that unit. ROG

[Danny Cabral]

The Ford 3G alternator isn't a noise producer. Ford created it for their EFI engines. Also, the Ford 3G alternator doesn’t use the external voltage regulator.

[ROG]

Thanks Danny, that's what I needed to know. It does sound like the Ford Mega alternator can use existing voltage regulator if needed.

[ROG]

@GPatrick: I checked the throttle plate(s) they're not anywhere close to opening at the same time. I put on the Holley throttle lever extension and when I pull at the top of the extension, it moves 1/4" before the secondaries open. I'm assuming they're supposed to open simultaneously?

[ROG]

Update: I just spoke with Tech. I'm out to sync linkage.

[ROG]

When I initially was working on Sniper, I don't recall the plates being out of sync. I can't imagine the rod bending, so I'm wondering if something else moved or loosened up. I'm going to have to pull the unit to fix, so is there anything else to look for? Thanks.

[GPatrick]

Setting it up can require some iteration. When you change the idle speed screw you may get it out of sync. When you sync, both front and rear may be too far open so it idles too fast. Then you turn the idle screw back in and it may go out of sync. Eventually you'll get it. At low RPM when you give it a little throttle the Sniper fires fuel to all four barrels. If the rear is not open as far as the front you don't get great atomization and it is more prone to a stumble. This is why I suggested you check the sync before you make any tuning changes. In some cases, you may find that you get better low RPM/throttle performance with a progressive setup, but not all Snipers will support progressive linkage.

Once you get it synched, let us know how it drives. If the stumble is there, run a datalog and we'll see where you need some adjustments.

[ROG]

That seems to be a pretty piss poor design as I'll have to pull it to get to the clip holding it in.

[GPatrick]

I believe that when the throttle shafts are open to part throttle that the link can be bent or unbent to get them synced. May be easier said than done on some engines depending on access. Or you can install the adjustable secondary linkage at 1:1 as shown here: https://documents.holley.com/199r10335-1.pdf

As long as you don't have the Sniper Stealth, you could just set it up as a progressive and then the rear throttle won't open until you are at 40% or so. I'd try bending the link first: https://www.efisystempro.com/sniper-...ve-linkage-kit