No Fire

[Derek Miller]

I needed brake repair and had my vehicle towed to my mechanic. I moved it before the tow and everything was running fine. My mechanic said it wouldn't start on arrival. When I arrived, we noticed the coil would only spark when I released the key back to run. I have a Sniper with a HyperSpark distributor to match.

[Danny Cabral]

When I arrived, we noticed the coil would only spark when I released the key back to run.

Ensure the Switched +12V pink wire (Sniper EFI) is still powered in the "Run" and "Crank" key positions.

[Derek Miller]

I'll check Sunday. What do I check if it's only on in the run position? Thank You. Stay tuned.

[Chuck L.]

The ignition switch?

[Derek Miller]

I have power to the pink wire in run & crank. It just drops a couple volts when it goes to crank, but still present at 11V.

[GPatrick]

Turn on the ignition and start a datalog before cranking the engine. Even if it doesn't start there's useful information in the datalog. Stop the datalog before turning the ignition off. Download the configuration file from the Sniper ECU using the Save As function and name it something unique, so it doesn't get confused with the Wizard tune file.

Zip the datalog and Config File and upload them here so we can take a look.

I had a condition where I only got a spark as I was stopping the crank and in my case it was the coil. If the system is getting an RPM signal the the likely suspects are the coil or the ignition box. Check for loose grounds and if possible swap the coil. Also inspect the cap & rotor to ensure the center button is making contact and the rotor tip and posts aren't showing signs of excessive arcing or corrosion.

Is the 11 volts you see the volts while cranking or the battery voltage at rest?

[Derek Miller]

11V at cranking. 14V at rest. I have a coil at my house. I'll pop that on real quick tomorrow and do a datalog if that's not it. Thank you.

[GPatrick]

Are you using the coil driver module or the HyperSpark spark box? If using the HyperSpark or MSD spark box, follow the test procedure outlined on the last page of this document. You might try this before even changing the coil. If it fails to spark during the test, swap coils. If it fails after that, then the box is suspect, or the box wiring/grounds. https://documents.holley.com/199r11509.pdf

[Derek Miller]

I'm using the coil driver module.

[GPatrick]

The Coil Driver Modules have been known to have issues when using the wrong type of coil, so review the instructions and the ad on the Holley website on the coils it will support. I'm not sure how it's tested, but will do some reading to see if the points input (Sniper output) can be used for testing. Here are a few related posts:
https://forums.holley.com/forum/holl...ion#post306519

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/556-150

https://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf See page 29 and note the white wire. You MAY be able to test the module by disconnecting the white wire from the Sniper and temporarily grounding the white wire on the Coil Driver Module side.

[Derek Miller]

I use an Accel canister style coil. Been good for three years or so.

[GPatrick]

If you find you need a replacement Coil Driver Module, I have a gently used module. Send me a message if interested. For the current list price, a swap to a HyperSpark or MSD spark box would probably be a better buy in the long run, rather than a new Coil Driver Module.