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  • New 408, rough acceleration.

    I'm brand new to this. I apologize for asking noob questions. This is a brand new crate 408. Under acceleration, it runs rough. Does it need to Learn more? I inserted some pictures, but I'm not sure I'm doing it right.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Unfortunately, pictures rarely help. For the best support, download the Configuration File from the Sniper/Files function on the handheld. Use Save As and rename the Config File so it's easily recognized as it can be confused with the basic Wizard tune on the SD card. The actual tune with Learn data is only maintained in the Sniper so it must be manually downloaded. Next, use the handheld and start a datalog. It's best if you can collect about 10 or 15 seconds of a normal operating temperature idle followed by an example of the problem. Stop the datalog once you are finished with the example.

    Tuning changes are only effective on a well sorted baseline tune and your Config File and datalog will help to determine if the base tune is OK.

    Please describe your system. Fuel tank, pump, plumbing to and from the Sniper, and your complete ignition system (type of distributor, spark box, etc.).

    Comment


    • #3
      Brand new factory fuel tank. Aeromotive Stealth 18638, -6AN fuel lines with return, MSD 6AL, I'm not sure exactly which MSD distributor I have. I'll look tomorrow. Let me attempt to load this file for you.

      Comment


      • #4
        If you want someone to help you with a GCF (Global Configuration File) consultation, or by means of a remote tuning session (after installation), I'd contact Andrew B. @projectgattago, Chris Myer at EFISystemPro.com or Richard Nedbal (FastManEFI) at EFIExpert.com.​
        May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
        '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

        Comment


        • #5
          So I shouldn't upload my datalog? If I have to pay for help, do I have to pay someone first? I'm completely new to this. I see people posting datalogs and I thought that was the right track for me.What am I doing wrong?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
            For further assistance, post your Config File and a short datalog of this occurrence for us to analyze.
            Also, review the datalog and inform us of exactly where in the datalog (time/seconds) the problem occurs.
            Datalog & Global Files can be linked to a document hosting website. I use Dropbox.com.
            Files can also be "zipped" (compressed zipped folder) & attached directly to a forum post ("Upload Attachments").
            Your Config File is in the "Documents", "Holley" folder, "Sniper" folder, "Config Files" folder (.hefi file).
            Your Datalogs are in the "Documents", "Holley" folder, "Sniper" folder, "Data Logs" folder (.dl file).
            Someone will analyze/troubleshoot the problem & offer advice.
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqHOtDNiTNA (How To Record & Email A Datalog)
            https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?21942 (Holley Sniper EFI Save GCF On SD Card & Laptop/PC Usage, LINK - Page 73)
            May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
            '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

            Comment


            • #7
              I hope I did this correctly.
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                No, you don't pay anyone on this site. The three dealers Danny listed do remote tuning, which there is a fee. The help you get on this site is free. There are many, very knowledgeable people here that will be glad to help. Give as much information about your build, your setup, your wiring, etc., and as detailed info as to your problem, you'll get help. Remember, we all started as noobs! Don't be afraid to ask for help.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thank you, Jeff. I’m determined to get the lost out of this setup. I’m not going to be one of those “one little hiccup and I’ll threaten to switch to carb” guys.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    We still need the Config File, but for starters:

                    1) Your battery voltage is low before your start. If the battery is low, charge it before starting but don't have the charger connected when attempting to start. The alternator appears to be doing its job later in the datalog. You're dropping into the 7 volt range during startup which can cause the Sniper to lose its mind. Check your battery cables and grounds, but it may be the low charge on the battery which is causing it to dip so low.

                    2) Your RPM signal appears to be very noisy and as a result the system is reacting to what it perceives to be RPM variations. We will need to see how your Config File is setup, but it may be a magnetic trigger that needs refinement. However, some of this noise may be due to rough engine operation which is related to items 3 & 4.

                    3) Your CTS reading is nearly 20F higher than your MAT reading. Many of the Holley supplied CTSs are faulty and this will impact cold start performance and often affects high temperatures as well.

                    4) After the initial startup decay the CL Compensation rises to 50%, which is your current limit. Part of this may be due to inadequate coolant temperature enrichment not adding enough fuel which Closed Loop tries to make up for. Once it begins to warm up the Closed Loop Compensation drops to more reasonable levels which tends to indicate that it may still be a temperature enrichment issue.

                    5) Your TPS reading seems to show that the TPS is not dropping to zero when you let off the throttle. Towards then end it is sitting at 2% which will invoke the IAC Hold Position. However, the IAC shows that it's going to zero so I suspect that someone may have altered the IAC setup. Another reason to see the Config File. Check your throttle linkage carefully to make sure there's no binding and that the TPS drops to zero. In some cases, the TPS may have a bad spot and it can be loosened and moved to a different position. If it hangs at 2%, manually try to force the throttle linkage closed to see if it's mechanical.

                    You need to verify if you're not fighting a fuel supply issue, however. Remove the air cleaner and have someone turn the ignition on. Ensure that all four injectors are supplying a prime shot. Occasionally an injector connector can become loose and the Sniper will attempt to overcome the missing injector with more fuel. If you don't already have one, install a fuel pressure gauge to make sure you have a full 58-ish PSI.

                    There seem to be a number of issues related to battery power, fuel delivery, the CTS, the TPS, etc. that I would encourage you to address those issues before attempting any further tuning. Tuning is effective on a well sorted out system, so focus on that.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Don't drive it until you get a few things sorted out. Most of post # 10 is a good place to start. Your biggest issue right now is why the ECU is asking for 30 lb/hr of fuel at idle, even while warming up. A typical small block will idle with less than 8 lb/hr of fuel when warm and need less than twice that during warmup. You likely have a loose injector connector and/or a failed injector circuit.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by GPatrick View Post
                        We still need the Config File, but for starters:
                        1) Your battery voltage is low before your start. If the battery is low, charge it before starting but don't have the charger connected when attempting to start. The alternator appears to be doing its job later in the datalog. You're dropping into the 7 volt range during startup which can cause the Sniper to lose its mind. Check your battery cables and grounds, but it may be the low charge on the battery which is causing it to dip so low.
                        I was having charging problems that took me a while to figure out. The car now has a PA Performance 130 amp "self exciting" alternator. I'll put the battery on charge.

                        2) Your RPM signal appears to be very noisy and as a result the system is reacting to what it perceives to be RPM variations. We will need to see how your Config File is setup, but it may be a magnetic trigger that needs refinement. However, some of this noise may be due to rough engine operation which is related to items 3 & 4.

                        3) Your CTS reading is nearly 20F higher than your MAT reading. Many of the Holley supplied CTSs are faulty and this will impact cold start performance and often affects high temperatures as well.
                        It was 25F in NY yesterday. I remember thinking it was odd the CTS started @ 60F. I ordered a new Delphi unit today.

                        4) After the initial startup decay the CL Compensation rises to 50%, which is your current limit. Part of this may be due to inadequate coolant temperature enrichment not adding enough fuel which Closed Loop tries to make up for. Once it begins to warm up the Closed Loop Compensation drops to more reasonable levels which tends to indicate that it may still be a temperature enrichment issue.

                        5) Your TPS reading seems to show that the TPS is not dropping to zero when you let off the throttle. Towards then end it is sitting at 2% which will invoke the IAC Hold Position. However, the IAC shows that it's going to zero so I suspect that someone may have altered the IAC setup. Another reason to see the Config File. Check your throttle linkage carefully to make sure there's no binding and that the TPS drops to zero. In some cases, the TPS may have a bad spot and it can be loosened and moved to a different position. If it hangs at 2%, manually try to force the throttle linkage closed to see if it's mechanical.
                        I think I had my foot lightly on the throttle to attempt to warm the car faster.

                        You need to verify if you're not fighting a fuel supply issue, however. Remove the air cleaner and have someone turn the ignition on. Ensure that all four injectors are supplying a prime shot. Occasionally an injector connector can become loose and the Sniper will attempt to overcome the missing injector with more fuel. If you don't already have one, install a fuel pressure gauge to make sure you have a full 58-ish PSI.
                        I ordered a new fuel pressure gauge today.

                        There seem to be a number of issues related to battery power, fuel delivery, the CTS, the TPS, etc. that I would encourage you to address those issues before attempting any further tuning. Tuning is effective on a well sorted out system, so focus on that.
                        I included a picture of the distributor I'm running. I also zipped and uploaded all files on the SD card. I wasn't sure which ones were for the Config File.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The SD card has four saved Config (GCF) Files. Which is the one that you downloaded from the ECU? The one from the ECU is needed because it has the latest tune/setup as well as any Learn data.
                          2x4_4150SS_8_ZBA.sniper
                          4150_4_ZAA.sniper
                          4150_4_ZBA.sniper
                          4150SS_8_ZBA.sniper
                          All of these appear to be Wizard tune files and not the actual Config File.
                          Last edited by GPatrick; 11-21-2022, 07:08 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I posted the entire contents of the SD card. I guess I'll have to start from scratch.

                            This is my camshaft information. It's a roller.
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              All you need to to is download the Config File from the ECU. Use the Save As function. It will appear in a folder called Saved GCF and that's all that you need to upload, the new file with the .SNIPER extension. Note that the dates are all in "Sniper time". The Sniper does not have a clock that keeps up with current dates. The four files were in the Saved GCF folder. If you did download it could/should be one of them. If you use the Save As you can more readily identify your file by giving it a unique name rather than the Holley default file names.

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