Experts only step in!

[mccain_racing]

Ended up getting the issue resolved.

[Danny Cabral]

I'm using the 58x drop down for my Ignition Type and everything else is pretty much setup simple.

Have you verified the ignition timing is fully synchronized (at idle and at higher RPM)? Ignition timing synchronization is a two step process. Here's a summary excerpt from the Ignition Timing Synchronization LINK:

SUMMARY: The initial (idle) timing is synchronized by turning the distributor or adjusting the crank trigger, and locking it down. The timing at higher RPM is synchronized by adjusting the Inductive Delay in the EFI software. The first synchronization is physical, and the second synchronization is electronic (Inductive Delay). Believe the timing light above all else...it's always the real timing (if there's a discrepancy). When finished, the timing as viewed on the laptop, should match what you see with the timing light, at all RPM. Once the ignition timing is fully synchronized, the Timing Table can be tuned for each application.

Just to recap - Synchronizing the EFI timing (laptop) with the engine timing (timing light):
NOTE: Temporarily disable the "Idle Spark" control (in Idle Settings).
1) Turn the distributor or adjust the crank trigger to synchronize the initial (idle) timing, then lock it down.
Next, ensure timing is synchronized at higher RPM using the EFI software.
NOTE: Now use the EFI software "Enable Static Timing Set". I use a static timing value of 25° or 30°.
2) Momentarily rev the engine, and watch the timing advance with your timing light. It shouldn't move.
If timing advances or retards, adjust the "Inductive Delay" until the timing maintains itself.
If the ignition timing retards, increase this value. If the timing advances, decrease this value.

Tried CUSTOM Ignition Type once, but had no luck setting my Inductive Delay with my style pulley because it's not keyed.

Adjusting the Inductive Delay has nothing to do with your pulley not being keyed.

Using a XS 16 volt battery with a custom built alternator that charges 17.9-18.4 going down the track.

I'm assuming LSx ignition coils are OK at 18.4 volts?

I will attach videos & pictures so if any "EXPERTS" can give me a hand, please let me know.

What we'll really need is your Global File and a short datalog of the occurrence. (With the exact "RTC" of the problem spot.)
Datalog & Global Files must be hosted on a document hosting website. I use Dropbox.com.

Had a good mind to send it in to make sure it's up to date because I'm using the V4 software.

The latest EFI software & ECU firmware versions are available HERE.
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5760#post45760 (EFI Software & ECU Firmware Versions)

[mccain_racing]

This is the balancer I have: https://m.summitracing.com/parts/flu-720102. I've made a custom timing pointer and marked TDC. But just as I figured, my balancer turns about every pass.

[Danny Cabral]

This is the balancer I have: https://m.summitracing.com/parts/flu-720102. I've made a custom timing pointer and marked TDC. But just as I figured, my balancer turns about every pass.

OK, now I understand what you meant by not having a keyed damper.

[mccain_racing]

BUMP to solve this issue.

[S2H]

You need to post the actual Global Folder & some Datalogs. If you can't post the actual Datalogs & Global Files, we cant help. It's as simple as that. Use a site like Dropbox, or File Dropper to upload files and then post links.

You can use the default drop down 58x, Inductive Delay will be correct for it already.
Timing will drift about 0.5°-1.0° retarded at high rpm, but that's it.
And it really doesn't matter what the number is, as long as you are reading plugs.
(And if you don't read plugs with nitrous, then it's your own stupid fault if something bad happens.)

You can double check the Inductive Delay by using a paint pen and putting a mark on your balancer.
It doesn't have to be on a zero mark, just needs to be somewhere you can see it and find it with a timing light.

What I do on non marked dampers, is make sure you take & get #1 close to TDC, or at least on its way up to TDC by pulling the plug, putting your finger over the hole. When the piston starts to come up, it will push air out and push your finger off. That will be close enough to make a mark anywhere on the balancer you can get at, and see easily. Then you can use your #1 plug wire and check to see if Inductive Delay is right.

With ANY engine, if your balancer is moving or spinning on the crank, they are both junk at that point anyways.

Also, I don't care who you think you are or what you think you can do.
I could care less about your times or your the fact that you are a grudge racer.
I tune cars that range from 13s in the 1/4, to mid 6s in the 1/4.
N/A, Nitrous, Turbo, Supercharged, pump gas, Avgas, C16, Q16, E50, E85, E98, MS109, M1, M5.
Low Compression, High Compression, big block, small block, LSx, Coyote.
Engines & Suspension tuning. I pretty much do it all and have been doing it all for almost 20 years.
Plus I have my own low 8 second car.

And I'm not ashamed to say that my previous car was a 3800 lb F-Body LS engine, with 350 dry shot running mid 8s.
I tried to hit it with more, but didn't have the suspension in the car to keep the chassis planted properly when it all came in.
So rather than invest another 15,000 in changing the car suspension to handle the power. I sold it and started the Fox Body I have now.

[mccain_racing]

Well said and like I quoted, I put my intelligence out there because someone is always quick to assume just because someone has a question on something, they're an idiot for asking it.

[S2H]

When you release the transbrake, it goes super fat at first, then shortly after it's adding a lot of compensation because it's extremely lean in the Base Fuel Table.

Your dwell is also too low, so you are probably fighting that as well. Change to the Custom setup, use 58x with an Inductive Delay around 25 usec, and 4x with Digital Rising, then you will have access to the dwell. Raise it to 4.5 if you have the non-heat sink coils. If you have heat sink coils, use a max value of 4.2.

Since you're a 16V system, and I'm seeing 18.2 ish from your alternator, the Holley will bring it down to compensate in the background. Effectively in the background, the math is (13.8/Voltage)*Dwell. You don't need to do anything special, as more voltage means faster charge times, so it needs to be less time on higher voltages. But just let the Holley do its background thing and pretend like you have voltage values around that 13.8V area. When you put in a value of 4.5, the Holley (in your case) will reduce it to 3.4 ms, which at 18.2V is equivalent to the same spark power as 4.5 is at 13.8V.

[mccain_racing]

Just three weeks ago when I brought the car out, I was setup in the CUSTOM ignition type because I was doing some reading from YellowBullet and seen what my style LS coils liked as far as the dwell, but had no luck. I used the 58x drop down, 35 usec of Inductive Delay, 4x cam sensor, and a custom Dwell Table setup for the proper voltage (will attach image). I started out with plenty of motor passes before even considering enabling my nitrous, because I don't believe in having a nitrous tune up fixing a screwed up engine tune up! I remember Monte Smith saying that using a progressive & dry fuel table it will be dang near impossible to get a perfect CL COMP in the 60 ft. You might've took a look at the amount of fuel added and said, whoa that's a big jet, but I haven't hit a 40 jet yet in my fogger, and my N/F Ratio is calling for a 7.1 ratio. I'm going to upload my horsepower run datalog & datalog configuration also.

[S2H]

The problem people usually have is usually with the solenoid, you just can't start out at lower than about 40-50% duty cycle. They just don't respond correctly down there. They pulse too slow, spray one into the open air sometime and you will see just how bad it is at lower duty cycles. If you can't hit it with at least 50% of your first kit off the line, it means you need to break it down into more kits, or you need to fix your suspension.

And while you can tune without an IAT/MAT sensor, it hurts consistency to not have one. Just one more thing you have to change fueling for every darn pass. At least if you had a MAT sensor, you could setup the tune to do it for you (takes a little bit of time, but well worth it in the long run for consistency).

In the 1.46, 6.24 hood on pass it's pig rich when you let go of the transbrake. It's a Fuel tuneup issue for sure. Fix the fueling, which may be a Direct relation to your nitrous solenoid as well compounding the issue when you let go of the transbrake, and your stumble will go away. You may need to tune it on the transbrake without the 2-Step first, to get a good datalog of what the fueling really needs to be.

Once you get the base fueling 100% correct, you can start to investigate the nitrous solenoid, which I'm sure has problems below 50% as most of them do.

And once again, you need more dwell. Put it back in custom mode and raise the dwell values up to 4.5. It will help some, spraying that much nitrous it's gonna want more spark than 3 ms dwell to really get a clean burn.

[Danny Cabral]

The problem people usually have is usually with the solenoid, you just can't start out at lower than about 40-50% duty cycle. They just don't respond correctly down there. They pulse too slow, spray one into the open air sometime and you will see just how bad it is at lower duty cycles.

Yep, I remember having this discussion once with Doug Flynn, and he stated it depends on the solenoid. NOS 16045NOS & 16048RNOS solenoids (the only two solenoids NOS recommended progressing at the time) will only work progressively between about 30-40% to 80-85% depending on system voltage. Holley was supposed to release an N2O solenoid mapping document, but it never materialized.