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Magnetic Crank Sensor A/D - Signal Quality

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  • Magnetic Crank Sensor A/D - Signal Quality

    I think I have a pretty dirty magnetic crank sensor signal coming in to my HP ECU (the original Terminator), but wanted to come here to confirm. Initially, I was having high RPM issues where I'd be at WOT and the engine would drop straight down to idle from around 5,000 RPM. Diag # 6 counted up from 0 multiple times, which told me it was a crank sensor issue.

    Finagling the Minimum Signal Voltage and Filtering didn't really seem to help. In fact, it kind of looks like the crank sensor is dropping out at lower RPM too, but it's less noticeable when driving. The sensor is grounded via the "clean" IPU Ground. Wire is 18/2 shielded (on the ECU side). The closest the wiring gets to spark plugs wires is within 4". Air gap from the wheel to the sensor is about 0.040". Another strange tidbit is the fact that the cam sensor log shows a signal even though I don't have a cam sensor? Maybe it's picking up all the noise from the crank sensor.

    Sensor: Mid '90s Ford EDIS application, magnetic.
    Trigger wheel: Custom 36-1, 0.125" thick.
    Ignition is setup as CUSTOM to run a pair of Ford EDIS coils in waste-spark mode (with Holley EFI coil driver).
    System Log screenshot is from 3,500 RPM to 5,000 RPM and was taken with the vehicle sitting in neutral.

    From here, I think I'm going to go with a Dual Sync distributor to get a cleaner Hall-Effect signal that plugs right in to the HP EFI harness. Hall-Effect brackets/wheels for a small block Mopar with power steering and a passenger side radiator outlet don't seem to be readily-available. The Dual Sync will drop right in, plug right in, and, if it's set to 1 Pulse/Fire, should still give me the option to run my EDIS coils in waste-spark.

  • #2
    I bet some of the Honeywell Hall-Effect sensors could be used. I doubt you'll have better stability, or resolution with a Dual Sync distributor. Even the Holley crank trigger kits are 36-1, try to keep it if you can.

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