Converting A GM 572 720 HP Crate Engine

[1fast10]

This is for a Pro Touring car and eventually, will be converted to pump gas. Right now a 5 speed car. What I'm looking for are part numbers of what I need. We plan on reusing the MSD distributor but that's it. What else is needed? Preferred intake & ECU package, along with harnesses and sensors needed.

[Danny Cabral]

We plan on reusing the MSD distributor but that's it.

Which MSD distributor is it? Is it Hall-Effect?
The MSD 2357 (small cap) & 23451 (large cap) cam sync distributors already have the MSD 2348 Hall-Effect sensor.

What else is needed? Preferred intake & ECU package, along with harnesses and sensors needed.

Most people find this document very helpful:
http://documents.holley.com/efi_sele...chart62914.pdf (Holley HP & Dominator EFI Component Selection Guide)

[1fast10]

It has a standard MSD distributor. Can that be converted? Also, the front cover has provisions for a sensor; I'm assuming a crank trigger. Like the 8.1L has. What's the best option and cheapest route? We plan on buying a complete kit, and want it to look like a carbureted deal.

[Danny Cabral]

It has a standard MSD distributor. Can that be converted?

If you can retrofit the MSD 2348 Hall-Effect sensor, that's what many people use:
½" x 20 threads. 1¼" length. It's not a "geartooth" type sensor.
It needs its magnet flying around in the distributor (which I don't like).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2348 (Summit Racing)
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...8_frm27049.pdf (Instructions)
Or you can use a Hall-Effect "geartooth" type sensor (LINK) without installing a magnet.
You could then simply cut off 7 of the 8 reluctor teeth, and use it as the ferrous target.

The MSD 2357 (small cap) & 23451 (large cap) cam sync distributors already have the MSD 2348 Hall-Effect sensor.

Excerpt from Holley EFI manual:
NOTE - It is not advised to use a magnetic pickup distributor to directly feed the magnetic trigger input of the ECU. If the
magnetic pickup distributor is connected to the ECU via the inductive pickup trigger wires, the pickup/rotor/cap phasing
must be corrected. This operation may require a phaseable cap or rotor or possibly machining to the distributor and is
therefore beyond the scope of most users. Even with the phasing corrected, the electrical noise inside the cap
(due to the high voltage cap & rotor terminals) may be strong enough to cause electrical noise interference.
It is advised to use a crank trigger system or a computer-controlled distributor.

Although a Hall-Effect sensor is preferred, a distributor converted to DIS,
theoretically should be able to use a VR magnetic pickup cam sensor.

The more robust Hall-Effect sensors are preferred because they're not susceptible to EMI/RFI interference/noise,
and their digital square-wave signal strength is consistent, regardless of RPM (unlike the VR magnetic sine-wave).
Also, the magnetic VR signal is weaker at cranking speeds.

Another problem with using VR Magnetic sensors, is there's more tuning work. Hall-Effect is "set & forget".
The VR Magnetic Sensor Type "Filtering" & "Minimum Signal Voltage" parameters need to be programmed.
http://documents.holley.com/199r10676rev.pdf (Magnetic Crank/Cam Input Filtering Parameters - Page 2)

Hall-Effect: 3-wire, square wave signal (digital), pulse generation
VR Magnetic: 2-wire, sine wave signal (inductive), voltage generation
http://www.electronicproducts.com/El...g_for_you.aspx (Hall-Effect vs VR Magnetic)

...and want it to look like a carbureted deal.

I'm the exact opposite. I don't want anything, that even remotely resembles a carburetor, on my engine.
I like the sophisticated modern look, multi-port fuel injection, distributorless ignition, crank & cam sensors, etc.

[1fast10]

So we can convert the MSD distributor, or buy a Hall-Effect one. Is that all that's needed? No crank sensor? Just the cam sensor?

Currently this car uses an MSD 6AL. Does that have to be used still, or can that be eliminated with the HP ECU and keep the Hall-Effect distributor?

[Danny Cabral]

So we can convert the MSD distributor, or buy a Hall-Effect one. Is that all that's needed? No crank sensor? Just the cam sensor?

The distributor's sensor is the crank sensor. A dual sync distributor has crank & cam sensors. The crank sensor is always required. The cam sensor (for sequential & CNP use) is what's optional.

Currently this car uses an MSD 6AL. Does that have to be used still, or can that be eliminated with the HP ECU and keep the Hall-Effect distributor?

Yes, a crank trigger or a Hall-Effect distributor (sensor only - no ignition module), must use a CD ignition box to fire the coil.
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev16.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 8.8, Figure 11, Page 20)

[1fast10]

Thanks for your help. I'm looking at kit 550-839. Other than that EFI kit, injectors & regulator what all would we need? I'd rather get a new distributor that works the best, or go to coil on plug. We're ordering in the next week or so. So any part numbers would help. I would like to eliminate the MSD box if possible, and use a distributor. But if not possible, I understand. Part numbers and I'll take our suggestions and make the purchase. We don't have the room to add a crank trigger to the front of the motor. The pulley is already in the fan shroud. So what ever we need.

[Danny Cabral]

I'd rather get a new distributor that works the best, or go to coil on plug. We're ordering in the next week or so. So any part numbers would help. I would like to eliminate the MSD box if possible, and use a distributor. But if not possible, I understand.

You have to decide now if you want a CNP ignition or an actual distributor ignition. Usually, a coil per cylinder ignition system uses a crank trigger kit (crank sensor), and a cam sync unit (cam sensor). However, a FAST dual sync distributor (LINK) can be used without the cap & rotor.
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....Multiple-Coils (Additional Information - Read This!)

[1fast10]

I've got to get him prices, so that's why I wanted both at the moment. If we do the FAST dual sync, and block off the cap, it's just a matter of the dual coil setup. What other harnesses should we do? This is a GEN 6 block, and the front cover has provisions for what looks like a crank sensor. But I'd rather not. We aren't looking at pulling the motor if we don't have too. So FAST dual sync, block off cap. And dual coil setup, the 559-839 kit, and I'm assuming one additional harness is that all we would need?

[1fast10]

BTW, thanks a ton for the help & info. I'm completely EFI illiterate. I was looking at the 556-104 coils. If I do coil-near-plug for this car, I would like to eliminate the MSD box entirely. We also don't have the room to add the 60-2 crank trigger to the front drive. So from what I've researched, so far it's either the EFI Connections GEN 6, BBC crank sensor which is behind the front cover, or I'm assuming we can use a FAST or Accel dual sync distributor. That's what we would like to do, budget permitting. If not, I assume the FAST dual sync and MSD box is the other route.

[Danny Cabral]

If we do the FAST dual sync, and block off the cap, it's just a matter of the dual coil setup. What other harnesses should we do?

The dual post coils are for a Waste-Spark ignition system. Yes, you can still run the Waste Spark ignition with the FAST dual sync distributor (cap & rotor removed).

So FAST dual sync, block off cap. And dual coil setup, the 559-839 kit, and I'm assuming one additional harness is that all we would need?

The Holley 556-101 Waste-Spark system includes the four coils and the ignition harness you'll need. The FAST dual sync distributor requires the Holley 558-313 ignition adapter harness.

If I do coil-near-plug for this car, I would like to eliminate the MSD box entirely.

Yes, multiple coil ignition systems (CNP/COP/DIS) don't use CD ignition boxes.
Multiple coil ignition systems (CNP/COP/DIS) use the ECU as the ignition controller.

We also don't have the room to add the 60-2 crank trigger to the front drive.

You don't have to use the 60-2 crank trigger kit with Holley's Waste-Spark ignition system.

[1fast10]

What about the Mallory FireStorm dual sync? It comes without a cap.

OK, I've got the entire system wired in and ready to go. What Global Folder should I use as a baseline? Engine is 572 BBC. 80 lb/hr injectors on E85 fuel. I read instructions for FAST and set the crank at 50°, along with moving sensor on distributor. I setup crank as instructions stated, along with changing the firing order. What else do I need to setup?

[Danny Cabral]

What about the Mallory FireStorm dual sync? It comes without a cap.

I looks great. It's an 8x crank signal, with a 1x cam sync signal. Hall-Effect sensors.
http://mallory-ignition.com/microsit...tem/index.html (Mallory FireStorm Ignition Information)
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...20sensor&dds=1 (FireStorm Dual Sync Sensor Unit)
http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...ctions_77S.pdf (FireStorm Dual Sync Sensor Instructions)

As long as the cam sensor position is adjustable, it should be compatible:
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....m-Sensor-Setup (Crank & Cam Sensor Setup)

The crank sensor is always synchronized by installing & turning the dual sync unit. Read above link.
I hope the cam sensor position is adjustable, or you may have to skew the firing order (in EFI software).

OK, I've got the entire system wired in and ready to go. What Global Folder should I use as a baseline? Engine is 572 BBC. 80 lb/hr injectors on E85 fuel.

It's imperative the Engine & Ignition Parameters, Sensors, Idle & Spark ICFs are verified to be correct, before initially starting the engine.
If this isn't a DBW application, ensure the DBW ICF isn't included in your Global Folder (Toolbox, "Remove Individual Config", Drive-By-Wire).

A base calibration is what you start with to create your Global Folder.
Five ICFs (software icons) are required to operate the engine: Fuel, Spark, System, Sensor & Idle.
Program the correct information into the Engine Parameters, Ignition Parameters, Sensors, Idle & Spark ICFs.
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...librations.pdf (Base Calibrations)
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...r10546rev1.pdf (Quick Start Guide)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This! (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read This!)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....9676#post29676 (E85 Base Calibration Conversion Info)

I read instructions for FAST and set the crank at 50°, along with moving sensor on distributor. I setup crank as instructions stated, along with changing the firing order. What else do I need to setup?

Everything you need to know is in Holley's instructions for the FAST Dual Sync Distributor.
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ons-Holley-EFI (FAST Dual Sync Distributor)

[1fast10]

Thanks for the help. We ordered the kit yesterday and anything else we needed.
This car has Auto Meter gauges that are electric. Uses one wire sensor for oil pressure & water temp.
I do have a few questions. Can these be wired into the sensors that come with the kit to simply wiring?
If not, can they be used in the I/O Harness & datalogged? That way just to show any differences if we have a gauge issue.
The Auto Meter gauges has three wires at back of the gauge, and only one wire to a sending unit if that helps.

[Danny Cabral]

Originally Posted by Danny Cabral Creating a custom Input (Inputs/Outputs ICF): 1st Click on the Inputs/Outputs ICF and Inputs. 2nd Name it, select Type, Enable it & Configure it. 3rd It must be Pin-Mapped to an available J1 ECU connector Input pin; click "View Inputs" on the Pin Map. Then click & drag it to an available J1 Connector Input pin. Now you can run this wire to your sensor's signal terminal. Creating a custom Output (Inputs/Outputs ICF): 1st Click on the Inputs/Outputs ICF and Outputs. 2nd Name it, select Type, Enable it & Configure it. Select the Switched/Sensor Input Triggers and activation criteria. 3rd It must be Pin-Mapped to an available J1 ECU connector Output pin; click "View Outputs" on the Pin Map. Then click & drag it to an available J1 Connector Output pin. Now you can run this wire to your component relay. A relay must be used because all the ECU's Outputs are rated at a maximum of 2 amps. FYI: Holley's 554-111 High Current Relay (device/solenoid driver) is not for use as a continuous duty pulsing relay. It's rated at 40 amps and can operate at 100% duty cycle continuously or temporarily pulsing (PWM) high currents. http://documents.holley.com/199r11304.pdf (NOS 15620NOS Solid State Relay Instructions - See Page 2) You're actually programming the ECU to assign a specific function to that Input/Output pin/circuit. It doesn't have a specific assigned pin; it's any available I/O pin, according to which Input/Output Type you selected. Don't worry, the EFI software won't allow you to make a mistake with the Pin Map. To connect up to 4 Inputs & Outputs to the EFI Main Harness, use I/O Auxiliary Harness 558-400. Eight Wire I/O Auxiliary Harness Connector Pin-Out (also in the Holley EFI Wiring Manual - LINK): Pin A...A12...White/Blue (Input #1) F,5,2,T,H,G Pin B...A3....White/Red (Input #2) F,5,2,T,H,G Pin C...A13...White/Black (Input #3) F,5,G Pin D...A4....White/Green (Input #4) F,5,G Pin E...B12...Gray/Yellow (Output #1) H,P+ Pin F...B11...Gray/Red (Output #2) H,P+ Pin G...B10...Gray/Black (Output #3) G,P− Pin H...B3....Gray/Green (Output #4) G,P− http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness Instructions) The 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness is 20 feet long, and it's "plug & play" into the EFI main harness. If the I/O menu icon (ICF) isn't already uploaded (added) to the top Toolbar, follow these instructions: (This same procedure applies to all the various Individual Configuration menu icons/items.) The "I/O" function is an "Individual Configuration" of the Holley EFI software. At top of screen, Click "Toolbox" and "Add Individual Config". At top of new window, select "Individual Configuration Library". At bottom of new window, select "Holley EFI Inputs/Outputs Config". Select "I/O" and open "Base Config - Blank.io". The "I/O" icon will then be present at top of screen.

Can these be wired into the sensors that come with the kit to simply wiring?

1 or 2-wire thermistors send a variable resistance measured in Ohms. This signal can not be shared by two devices. Conversely, RPM & 0-5V signals (3-wire sensors) can be split.
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3598#post53598 (Wiring Additional Sensors - Holley HP & Dominator ECUs)
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 2.1 "Pin-Outs", Pages 6, 7 & 8)
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 4.0 "Primary Sensors [& Sensor Types]", Page 8)
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 9.0 "Programmable Inputs & Outputs", Pages 27 & 28)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5244#post55244 (Splice Cap/Shrink Tube Info)

The Auto Meter gauges has three wires at back of the gauge, and only one wire to a sending unit if that helps.

It's the sending unit or sensor that matters, not the gauge itself.

If not, can they be used in the I/O Harness and datalogged? That way just to show any differences if we have a gauge issue.

Yes. If you create an custom Input (Inputs/Outputs ICF) with these sending units, they can be displayed on the Data Monitor & Data Logger.

Here are five Input examples:
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ture-ECU-Input (Transmission Temperature Input)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ith-Holley-EFI (Vehicle Speed Sensor Input)
https://forums.holley.com/showthread...6659#post96659 (Crankcase Pressure Sensor)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....8211#post68211 (Internal/ECU Datalogger Switch)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3996#post83996 (AEM 30-2056 12 Position Trim Pot)

Here are eight Output examples:
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3022#post63022 (Simple Shift Light)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5217#post55217 (Shift Light Per Gear)
https://forums.holley.com/showthread...lenoid-Shifter (Air Shifter Output Setup)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....0874#post70874 (Lean AFR Safety Output)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....0600#post60600 (Time Based Timing Retard)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....2395#post82395 (Gear Based/Timed Output Setup)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7756#post77756 (Engine Safety Output Information)
https://forums.holley.com/showthread...4142#post94142 (Digital Dash Shift Light)

Originally Posted by Holley EFI Wiring Manual & Diagrams 9.0 Programmable Inputs & Outputs Programmable input and outputs are intended to be any input or output that is created by the user when a Global Folder is configured. Once configured, they must be assigned a to a specific pin location on the Pin Map, and then physically wired per the assigned location. NOTE 1: As a standard wiring practice, DO NOT wire any input or output to a source that draws more than 2 amps. This is especially true when connecting to something with a “coil”, such as any type of solenoid. If the device exceeds 2 amps, you should connect the input or output to the trigger side of the relay used to power the device, not directly to the device. Note that this 2 amp limit pertains to inputs as well (not just outputs). When depowered, some solenoids create a large fly-back voltage that is fed directly back into an input trigger of the ECU, if that input is directly connected to the solenoid. 9.1 Inputs There are seven types of inputs that can be configured. The following lists them and reviews wiring recommendations. The designation on the Pin Map (Inputs) is given first, then a description. 1. “H” – Switched 12V or “High Side” input – This input will be triggered when system voltage is applied. Minimum triggering voltage is 4.5V. Do not exceed 24V. Wiring: Connect up to any voltage source that is desired to trigger this input. See NOTE 1 above. 2. “G” – Switched Ground or “Low Side” input – This input will be triggered when a ground is applied. Wiring: Connect up to any ground source that is desired to trigger this input. See NOTE 1 above. 3. “5” – 0-5 volt sensor input – Any 0-5 volt sensor input such as a TPS, MAP sensor, pressure transducer, and many others. Wiring: Wire the signal wire from the 0-5V sensor used into the appropriate pin. Any 0-5V sensor requires a +5V reference voltage and a sensor ground. Each HEFI connector that has 0-5V inputs has its own +5V reference voltage output and sensor ground. These need to be properly wired to each 0-5V sensor used. It is acceptable to have multiple sensors share the same +5V and ground reference lines. Be sure to solder, heat shrink, etc. wires properly as poor connections will cause for inaccurate or faulty sensor readings. Do not use +5V reference or ground sources from other controllers or power supplies to support the sensor, or sensor accuracy may be compromised. 4. “2” – 0-20 volt sensor input – Any 0-20 volt sensor input Wiring: Connect to desired voltage input. 5. “T” – Thermistor temperature input – Most coolant and air temperature sensors are a 2 wire “thermistor” design. Wiring: Connect to one side of the thermistor device. Connect the other side of the thermistor device to a “Sensor Ground” input pin to the ECU (same pins for a 0-5V sensor). 6. “F” – Frequency or a Digital Speed Input – Designed for a digital voltage input from a speed/rotation sensor. A Hall-Effect sensor is the common sensor used. Voltage range can be 4.5 to 24 volts. Wiring: A Hall-Effect sensor has 3 wires: Power, Ground, and Signal. Most sensors can be supplied with battery voltage (12V), a few require a 5 volt reference. Check with the specifications of your specific sensor. Although not usually needed with a Hall-Effect sensor, it is always advised to use a shielded/grounded cable to wire them (all three wires can be shielded). The following is advised when wiring a Hall-Effect sensor. Signal – Run the sensor signal wire into the Pin Mapped channel Power – Either supply with clean switched power, or if it is not used for another purpose, you can power from Pin P1B-B20 which is a clean 12V power source. If the sensor requires 5 volts, use a +5V reference line. Ground – It is best to connect to an IPU (Inductive/Magnetic Pickup) or Sensor Ground. Shield Wire – If using shielded/grounded cable, connect the shield ground wire to the ECU only. It is best to connect it to an IPU ground. 7. “S” – Inductive Speed Input – Designed for an A/C voltage input from a speed/rotation sensor. A magnetic sensor is the common sensor used. The minimum arming voltage is 50 mV. Wiring: It is highly advised to always use a shielded/grounded cable for any inductive signal. They are very susceptible to noise. An inductive sensor has two wires - a “positive” and “negative”. Connect the positive lead to the “S” input pin that was Pin Mapped. Connect the negative side to an IPU ground. 9.2 Outputs All PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) and switched outputs are rated at a maximum of 2A. If a device will draw more than 2A, some type or relay must be used. If the output is PWM, do not use a “switching” relay, but rather a solid state type relay designed to be pulse width modulated. There are four types of outputs that can be configured. The following lists them and reviews wiring recommendations. The designation on the Pin Map (Outputs) is given first, then a description. 1. “H” – Switched 12V or “High Side” output – will output system voltage level. Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. See NOTE 1 above. 2. “G” – Ground or “Low Side” output – will output a ground trigger. Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. See NOTE 1 above. 3. “P+” - 12V Pulse Width Modulated output – Outputs a high side pulse width modulated output to control items such as a progressive nitrous solenoid or a PWM IAC – will output system voltage level. See NOTE 1 above. Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. A PWM device has 2 wires, connector the other side of the device to ground. 4. “P-” – Ground Pulse Width Modulated output – Outputs a low side pulse width modulated output to control items such as a progressive nitrous solenoid or a PWM IAC. See NOTE 1 above. Wiring: Connect the pin to the device to be triggered. A PWM device has 2 wires, connector the other side of the device to a voltage source.

Originally Posted by Tier 2 Holley EFI Fuel Injection Training Manual (Pages 128 & 129) Page 128. Outputs: One last caveat about Outputs, they can transition through an indeterminate state during power up of the ECU. This usually lasts on the order of milliseconds if it happens at all, but it can result in very short inadvertent activation of devices on power up. Also, it is possible for some outputs to transition through indeterminate states upon power down or when the main power is disconnected from the ECU. Because of this, an additional layer of protection to gate safety critical outputs is highly recommended. For instance, if you're using a high current nitrous driver that receives power even when the ECU doesn’t, it would be a good idea to have your nitrous enable switch energize relays that connect the Nitrous driver’s signal input to the ECU’s output. That way nitrous activation would not happen during these transitional periods (since the nitrous enable switch should not be activated.) The relays don’t have to break the solenoid’s high current path, just the driver’s signal path. Driver Types: Although no distinction is made in the software, there are four basic types of output drivers‐ two types for high side outputs and two types for low side outputs. Since a load can behave considerably differently depending on the type of output driver that is used, it is useful to be familiar with the differences. The two types of high side output drivers we will call the “half‐bridge” and the “intelligent HS drive.” The biggest difference in the way that these two outputs behave is in the inactive state. When the “half-bridge” output goes to the inactive state it doesn’t just “let go,” it forcibly drives the output pin to ground. This can lead to some unexpected results. Foremost, it makes it abundantly clear when you have it wired wrong. If you have one side of a solenoid connected to a half bridge output and the other side to erroneously connected to battery voltage, the device will turn on when the output tries to turn it off. This does not happen with the other high side output type. Secondly, the low voltage drop on the recirculation path in the output’s inactive state can lead to longer solenoid deactivation times. Solenoids that turn all the way on and all the way off are just a little more sluggish. That is why half‐bridge outputs are not recommended for boost solenoids. For solenoids that operate in continuous current mode (like some IAC motors) this longer current decay time can be an advantage. Both high side drives have some level of overcurrent protection, but the behavior can be different. The half bridge outputs should not drive more than about 3A average, but some loads can have higher instantaneous currents. Even with short spikes of 11A the device will shut down. You do not get any kind of warning: the drive just seems like it doesn’t work. You must key‐off and back on to get this type of output to recover from an overcurrent shutdown. There are two outputs per half bridge chip. If one hits the current limit they both go down. Incandescent lights have a substantially higher inrush current than operating current. There are some large shift lights that will actually hit the 11A current limit and shutdown the output. The intelligent HS drive outputs do not shutdown in the same way, but will limit current to lower levels. This is good and bad, but at the end of the day you do not want to be activating the current limiters because it can quickly overheat the drive components. Page 129. The two types of low side drivers are more similar to each other than the high side outputs. They have roughly similar flyback voltage clamping and they are both “relaxed” when they are deactivated. They are effectively interchangeable. The two “intelligent LS drive” outputs (3 and 4) have a slightly lower voltage drop when active. J1 B12 Output 01 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J1 B11 Output 02 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J1 B10 Output 03 G, P‐ Intelligent LS drive J1 B03 Output 04 G, P‐ Intelligent LS drive J2 B12 Output 05 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J2 B06 Output 06 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J2 B08 Output 07 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J2 B21 Output 08 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J2 B05 Output 09 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J2 B11 Output 10 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J2 B03 Output 11 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J2 B09 Output 12 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J2 B24 Output 13 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive J2 B25 Output 14 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive J2 B02 Output 15 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive J2 B01 Output 16 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive J2 B04 Output 17 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive J2 B10 Output 18 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive J2 B22 Output 19 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive J2 B23 Output 20 H, P+ Intelligent HS drive J3 B13 Output 21 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J3 B12 Output 22 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J3 B11 Output 23 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J3 B10 Output 24 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J3 B19 Output 25 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J3 B26 Output 26 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J4 B13 Output 27 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J4 B07 Output 28 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J4 B02 Output 29 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J4 B01 Output 30 G, P‐ Open Collector LS drive J4 B11 Output 31 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J4 B05 Output 32 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J4 B12 Output 33 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J4 B06 Output 34 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J4 B04 Output 35 H, P+ Half‐Bridge J4 B03 Output 36 H, P+ Half‐Bridge Tier 1 Holley EFI Fuel Injection Training Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5y...ew?usp=sharing Tier 2 Holley EFI Fuel Injection Training Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5y...ew?usp=sharing The Tier 3 Training Manual isn't necessary, because it just contains three instructions manuals (2 Boost & 1 NOS Fogger) that are already available on Holley's website.