MSD Crank Trigger Sensor to Hall-Effect

[altereddoug]

HP EFI, using custom map, BBC, NA, 1050HP, speed density.
Pretty close to my setup, except I run E85 and 540 BBC around 850HP, 280 @ .050" duration cam.
Today, I also upgraded the software and firmware, didn't help anything.

I purchased the Holley Hall-Effect sensor 554-118 to replace the MSD crank sensor.
The wiring in the wiring diagram shows connecting the Hall-Effect sensor to the ignition harness:
Terminal A - crank input, white
Terminal C - IPU ground, black
Terminal E - switched 12V, red
Terminal K - for bare shield wire

The instructions that came with the Hall-Effect sensor, states B20 would be a "good choice".
But B20 isn't used in the wiring harness on my diagram, so do I have to run a wire all the way to ECU?

Or can I use terminal E on ignition harness which connects to A10 on ECU?
Which is the way I have it right now, per wiring schematic.

It runs fine, on initial startup. That's as far as I've gotten.
But I keep getting a warning, "Input/Output assigned to an unavailable connector. This must be fixed before syncing."
I do not have anything enabled, including data log. Nothing under Pin Map is assigned.
Running out of ideas, had it running and never received this warning.
Was getting ready to take it to a chassis dyno after I switched out the sensor, but now this came up.

[Danny Cabral]

The instructions that came with the Hall-Effect sensor, states B20 would be a "good choice".
But B20 isn't used in the wiring harness on my diagram, so do I have to run a wire all the way to ECU?

• Yes, you should use pin B20 on the P1B Connector. But there's an easier way. Read below:
This is how I did it on my 558-104 Main Harness. There's a factory splice on the red/white switched +12V wire, as illustrated in the Holley EFI Wiring Manual (wiring schematics - Section 13 Wiring Appendix). This splice is located a few inches away from the system fuse. Switched +12V power is routed to the P1A ECU connector (pin A10) and to the 10-pin Ignition Harness connector (pin E). I simply cut the wire leading to the Ignition Harness connector (at the splice), and lengthened it to the P1B ECU connector (pin B20 - EST 12V Output). Now pin E at the Ignition Harness connector, is a clean, ECU regulated +12V for ignition crank & cam sensors. It's quick & easy, and we're only installing a short section of wire (about 12" long) with an ECU mating terminal (LINK). Leave the circuit from +12V switched power, leading to pin A10 (P1A ECU connector) in tact. The Main Harness is wrapped in split braided sleeving (LINK), so there's easy access to the wiring inside. My ECU is located inside the vehicle, so I didn't even have to enter the engine compartment.

• The reason I had to use pin B20 (EST 12V Output) to power my Hall-Effect crank & cam sensors (LINK), is because it's a clean ECU regulated sensor power source. I was previously using pin E (Switched +12V) on the 10-pin Ignition connector, but the engine would consistently stall or almost stall on any cold start (or a 2+ hour restart), due to a momentary RPM Error. It was hard to determine what was wrong, because a datalog was required to see the momentary RPM Error & quick resync. Incidentally, Digital Rising worsened this fault considerably (Digital Falling is a much cleaner signal and much preferred). I also tried meticulously adjusting the starting parameters, but eventually realized the problem wasn't in the tuning. No matter how much I leaned or enriched the starting parameters, it stalled (cold) the same way every time. Like the key was shut off (momentarily) immediately after the engine fired up (during the Startup IAC Position - Hold Time). I decided it was some sort of sensor signal, or sensor power issue. My engine & EFI system is very well grounded, and my wiring is superb; so I tried new sensors and a tighter sensor air gap, but it still stalled on cold starts. Finally, as a last resort, I rewired the sensor +12V power feed to pin B20 (aforementioned paragraph) and the problem was instantly solved! After months of troubleshooting, the solution was a free, easy, twenty minute wiring modification...unbelievable.

http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Section 13 Wiring Appendix)
http://documents.holley.com/199r10633rev.pdf (Holley 554-118 Hall-Effect Crank Sensor Instructions)
http://documents.holley.com/199r10525rev3.pdf (Holley DIS Waste-Spark Ignition Instructions)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3598#post53598 (Related Forum Post - Sensor Wiring)

Or can I use terminal E on ignition harness which connects to A10 on ECU?
Which is the way I have it right now, per wiring schematic.

If it starts & runs fine, it's OK to leave it wired that way.
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual - Figure 11, Page 20)

But I keep getting a warning, "Input/Output assigned to an unavailable connector. This must be fixed before syncing."
I do not have anything enabled, including datalog. Nothing under Pin Map is assigned.

There must be something assigned. Any custom I/O? Nothing in the Pin Map?

[altereddoug]

Nothing in Unassigned Inputs, under Pin Map in View Inputs, View LCD, View Outputs, View Injectors, or View Fixed.

Basic I/O - nothing has a check in the box under any topic.
Fans/Pumps/AC
TCC
Timing Retard
Datalog
CAN Bus 1 is set to Holley Standard
CAN Bus 2 is set to Holley Standard
Not sure what CAN Bus is, and that's the way the folder came up.
The folder is under custom, BBC N/A 1050 HP speed density IR intake.
I used it because it is very close to my setup, just had to change to E85 and Hall-Effect sensor.

[Danny Cabral]

Basic I/O - nothing has a check in the box under any topic.

Are you sure the "Enable Input for Internal ECU Log" isn't check marked?
V3 Software: Under Toolbox, open Preferences and temporarily uncheck "ECU is HP EFI".
V4 Software: Open "ECU Configuration" (System ICF), and temporarily select Dominator "ECU Type".
Then look in the Pin Map for anything assigned, such as "Second Fuel Pump" or "ECU Log Trig".
Drag it away from the Connector J2 Input, up to the Unassigned Inputs/Outputs area.
Then close & reopen the Pin Map. Lastly, return the EFI software to HP ECU Configuration.

Not sure what CAN Bus is, and that's the way the folder came up.

The CAN Bus is currently only for Holley hardware such as the Digital Dash display, LCD Touchscreens, Avenger/Terminator handheld controller, Racepak dash displays & future devices, etc.

[altereddoug]

Unchecked - ECU is HP EFI.

In Pin Map, there under Connector J2 (A27 pin, Input #7), Input Type has a red G, and in green letters it says ECU Log Trig with a green line through it. That's the only item that sticks out in any of the Pin Maps or I/O.

[Danny Cabral]

...and in green letters it says ECU Log Trig with a green line through it.

I know...that is what's wrong! Drag it away from the Connector J2 Input, up to the Unassigned Inputs area.
Then close & reopen the Pin Map. Lastly, reopen Toolbox & Preferences, and check mark "ECU is HP EFI".

[altereddoug]

That was it! You never cease to impress me. Thank you for your help.
I rechecked the ECU is HP EFI box. In the morning I will reset the ECU.

[Danny Cabral]

That was it! You never cease to impress me. Thank you for your help.

You're welcome. I knew there was assigned I/O; you just couldn't see it because your software was in "ECU is HP EFI" mode.

[DynoDon]

Danny, I would like to try moving the power for my Hall-Effect sensors to the B20 pin to see if it helps with a long crank time start issue. Where can I get the terminals for that plug? Do you know what I would ask for at the electronics store?

[Danny Cabral]

Where can I get the terminals for that plug?

http://forums.holley.com/showthread....als-Holley-EFI (Holley EFI ECU Connectors & Terminals)

[DynoDon]

Thanks! I'll report back if it makes any difference.

[Danny Cabral]

You're welcome.

[DynoDon]

This is how I did it on my 558-104 Main Harness. There's a factory splice on the red/white switched +12V wire, as illustrated in the Holley EFI Wiring Manual (wiring schematics - Section 13 Wiring Appendix). This splice is located a few inches away from the system fuse. Switched +12V power is routed to the P1A ECU connector (pin A10) and to the 10-pin Ignition harness connector (pin E). I simply cut the wire leading to the Ignition harness connector (at the splice), and lengthened it to the P1B ECU connector (pin B20 - EST 12V Output). Now pin E at the Ignition harness connector, is a clean, ECU regulated +12V for ignition crank & cam sensors. It's quick & easy, and we're only installing a short section of wire (about 12" long) with an ECU mating terminal (LINK). Leave the circuit from +12V switched power, leading to pin A10 (P1A ECU connector) in tact. The Main Harness is wrapped in split braided sleeving (LINK), so there's easy access to the wiring inside. My ECU is located under the front seat, so I didn't even have to enter the engine compartment.

Well I tried this. I was hoping that possibly a cleaner signal might help with crank to start time. I understand with Hall-Effect crank & cam sensors, it should take two revolutions to send a signal, but at cranking speed it should see about 2 1/2 revolution per seconds and it takes anywhere from 4-6 seconds before it fires. I know it's spark and not ignition, as I removed the fuel injection and installed a carburetor, and it did exactly the same thing. Kind of frustrating & annoying when it doesn't start right up.

[Danny Cabral]

I know it's spark and not ignition, as I removed the fuel injection and installed a carburetor, and it did exactly the same thing.

Well that's a clue. What does your ignition system consist of?

[fastmanefi]

What are you running for a cam signal, or are you? Crank sync (and therefore ignition fire) takes longer if you're running sequential using a Single Pulse per revolution cam signal. It would fire much faster with a 58x or 36x crank trigger.