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  • #46
    Originally posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Cam Sync Setup: 180° BTDC, #1 cylinder, compression stroke.
    Got it, thanks!

    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by Danny Cabral View Post
      However, for DIS & CNP/COP, the cam sync conversion is much easier than what's outlined in that link:
      There's no need to modify the reluctor with a setscrew (so it can rotate independently on the shaft).
      This adjustability isn't necessary because the cap & rotor are eliminated, so there's no #1 terminal rotor phasing.
      Simply cut off any 7 of the 8 reluctor teeth, and fabricate a cover to take the place of the discarded cap, adapter & rotor.
      I have a question about this. Why don't you need a setscrew for the reluctor? Shouldn't it rotate with the shaft? Thanks.

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by Danny Cabral View Post
        However, for DIS & CNP/COP, the cam sync conversion is much easier than what's outlined in that link:
        There's no need to modify the reluctor with a setscrew (so it can rotate independently on the shaft).
        This adjustability isn't necessary because the cap & rotor are eliminated, so there's no #1 terminal rotor phasing.
        Simply cut off any 7 of the 8 reluctor teeth, and fabricate a cover to take the place of the discarded cap, adapter & rotor.
        Originally posted by jeostang View Post
        Why don't you need a setscrew for the reluctor? Shouldn't it rotate with the shaft?
        Because without a cap & rotor (Distributorless Ignition System), there's nothing to align the shaft to at the top or bottom. You simply turn the shaft & reluctor assembly to set & install the cam sync sensor unit (you have 360° of rotational adjustment/synchronization). The bottom of the shaft drives the oil pump; gear mesh doesn't matter. With a conventional distributor, the ignition rotor attaches to the shaft, so the shaft must maintain #1 rotor/cap terminal phasing; hence the need for a rotationally adjustable reluctor.
        May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
        '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

        Comment


        • #49
          Very, very good thread. Couple questions:
          Small Block Ford
          Explorer Cam Sync
          Holley Smart Coils
          556-115 Holley 36-1 Crank Trigger Kit

          When using Holley Smart Coils, Under Ignition Parameters, Custom Ignition Type, do I use DIS Coil on Plug for Output Setup type with 4.5 Dwell or something else?

          I currently have the Custom Ignition Parameters setup as this:
          Crank Sensor Type 36-1
          Sensor Type Digital Falling
          Inductive Delay 50.0 usec
          Timing Offset 0°
          TDC Tooth Number 7

          Cam Sensor Type Single Pulse
          Sensor Type Digital Falling

          Output Setup
          DIS Coil on Plug
          Dwell Time 4.5 msec

          This all look correct for initial fire up?

          Comment


          • #50
            Originally posted by mighty mouse View Post
            When using Holley Smart Coils, Under Ignition Parameters, Custom Ignition Type, do I use DIS Coil on Plug for Output Setup type with 4.5 Dwell or something else?
            Yes, "DIS Coil On Plug". The Dwell Time is answered in the instructions:
            http://documents.holley.com/199r10662.pdf (Holley 556-112 Coil-Near-Plug Smart Coils)
            May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
            '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

            Comment


            • #51
              Originally posted by S2H View Post
              With the 24-1 wheel, you can put it anywhere you want, but its default setting is designed to be placed so that the 10th tooth after the missing tooth is TDC. You can put it earlier if you want to, make it the 5th tooth, and just change the value in the Ignition Parameters to match. If for some reason you can't (or don't want to) put it on the 10th tooth, you can adjust it in the Ignition settings to match where you had to put it. If it's not exactly perfect, don't worry too much, you can always move the "Timing Offset" so that your actual ignition timing is correct and matches your commanded timing.

              In simple terms, the cam sensor just needs to be before TDC. Exact position is not important as it's just a reference for which stroke it's on (exhaust/intake or compression/power). So as long as it falls within that window of 110-250, it's just fine. I usually just try to put it at 180° because it's easy to find on the engine/balancer, and it's OK if you aren't exact.
              Scott or Danny, I'm making a custom crank trigger bracket for a Hall-Effect sensor (60-2 setup). I'm making a non adjustable mount very similar to Danny's, but mine will bolt to my motor plate. If I don't have any lateral movement in my mount to adjust timing, I'll just use the Timing Offset in the software to sync my computer setting with the actual timing, correct? If you had an adjustable mount, you could do the same thing by clocking the sensor and not using the Timing Offset, if I'm understanding correctly.
              93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by Rick90lx View Post
                I'm making a custom crank trigger bracket for a Hall-Effect sensor (60-2 setup). I'm making a non adjustable mount very similar to Danny's, but mine will bolt to my motor plate. If I don't have any lateral movement in my mount to adjust timing, I'll just use the Timing Offset in the software to sync my computer setting with the actual timing, correct?
                Yes, but why rely on the Timing Offset parameter, when you can account for this in the 60-2 trigger wheel mounting? In other words, ensure your 60-2 trigger wheel design is rotationally adjustable (LINK). You can adjust the crank sensor, trigger wheel or the Timing Offset parameter (the latter being the least desirable in my opinion). On my engine, the Timing Offset is zero. On a high RPM race engine, it's best to keep the amount of ignition retard (occurring from such an advanced reference angle) to a minimum.
                http://www.masterenginetuner.com/und...nition-p2.html (Read Last Paragraph)

                If you had an adjustable mount, you could do the same thing by clocking the sensor and not using the Timing Offset, if I'm understanding correctly.
                Yes, by adjusting the crank sensor position or the trigger wheel position.
                May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
                '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

                Comment


                • #53
                  Basically, I dropped my damper & wheel off to an older machinist friend, and told him I needed the wheel to be adjustable. Rather than putting slots for adjustability, he gave me multiple bolt options so I can rotate the wheel into several different positions, depending on where I wanted to mount the sensor. Having a custom turbo kit built without worrying about crank trigger placement, has made adding one a little tougher than normal. In truth, I would have been better off at this point, buying a new ATI with the crank trigger shell, and using the standard MSD crank trigger bracket, but I'm too far invested at this point to go back.
                  93 Notchback, 383ci SBF, Highports, 80mm turbo, custom cam, TH400

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by Rick90lx View Post
                    Basically, I dropped my damper & wheel off to an older machinist friend, and told him I needed the wheel to be adjustable. Rather than putting slots for adjustability, he gave me multiple bolt options so I can rotate the wheel into several different positions, depending on where I wanted to mount the sensor.
                    And remember, you can also flip the trigger wheel around for additional mounting positions. You should be able to get close enough without resorting to an unnecessarily large Timing Offset value.
                    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
                    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      I had a car brought to me with an oddball setup that we would like to get running sequential. It's a SBC, with a 58x LSx reluctor wheel used as a crank trigger. For ignition, it's running LSx truck coils, and it has a 1999 Silverado distributor which is a 1x Hall-Effect. Right now it runs with the ignition settings as follows:
                      Crank Sensor: LSx 58 Tooth
                      Cam Sensor: Not Used
                      Output Setup: DIS Waste Fire
                      What would be the proper procedure to sync the cam sensor?

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Originally posted by doc View Post
                        What would be the proper procedure to sync the cam sensor?
                        http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5115#post65115 (Similar Forum Thread)
                        May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
                        '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Thanks Danny, that certainly helps. There is one thing that I didn't see addressed in those threads. Since the cam sensor that I'm using is just a distributor, at what degree should I set it to trigger? From reading those threads, it sounds like maybe 0°, but I think the case could be made for 78°. Thanks.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Isn't the LSx 1x cam sensor reluctor only attached to the camshaft one way?
                            May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
                            '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Yes, however, this is not an LSx engine. It's a small block Chevy that has been setup with a 58x reluctor wheel as a crank trigger & LSx truck coils. The distributor in the engine is a 1x Hall-Effect signal out of an older Chevy TBI truck. It's kind of a Frankenstein setup that I didn't put together, but I get to tune it. If Batch Fire is the only way, I can make that work.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Originally posted by doc View Post
                                If Batch Fire is the only way, I can make that work.
                                Contact Holley Tech Service (LINK) for that cam trigger detail.
                                May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
                                '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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