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  • Wiring an Electric Cooling Fan - Holley EFI

    1) First, Enable the Electric Fan(s) in "Basic I/O" - "System Parameters".
    Second, enter "Inputs/Outputs" (also in System Parameters), and select the "Output Type" for Electric Fan(s).
    I prefer it to be a ground output, however, it can be programmed to be either one (+12V or ground).
    Third, it must be Pin-Mapped to an available J1 connector output pin; click "View Outputs" on the Pin Map.
    Then click & drag it to an available J1 Connector pin. Now you can run this wire to your electric fan relay.
    A relay must be used because all the ECU's Outputs are rated at a maximum of 2 amps.

    You're actually programming the ECU to assign a specific function to that pin/circuit. It doesn't have a specific
    assigned pin; it's any available Output pin, according to which Output Type you selected in Inputs/Outputs
    screen (System ICF). Don't worry, the EFI software won't allow you to make a mistake with the Pin Map.
    https://www.holley.com/document/tech...9r10545rev.pdf (Pin Map Instructions)

    To connect up to 4 Inputs & Outputs to the EFI Main Harness, use I/O Auxiliary Harness 558-400.
    Eight Wire I/O Auxiliary Harness Connector Pin-Out (also in the Holley EFI Wiring Manual - LINK):
    Pin A...A12...White/Blue (Input #1) F,5,2,T,H,G
    Pin B...A3....White/Red (Input #2) F,5,2,T,H,G
    Pin C...A13...White/Black (Input #3) F,5,G
    Pin D...A4....White/Green (Input #4) F,5,G
    Pin E...B12...Gray/Yellow (Output #1) H,P+
    Pin F...B11...Gray/Red (Output #2) H,P+
    Pin G...B10...Gray/Black (Output #3) G,P−
    Pin H...B3....Gray/Green (Output #4) G,P−
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10516.pdf (Holley 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness Instructions)
    The 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness is 20 feet long, and it's "plug & play" into the EFI main harness.

    2) If you want more options, you don't have to use the preexisting Electric Fans output in "Basic I/O" - System Parameters.
    I created a custom Electric Fan Output because I don't like the fans running (hot engine) when I have the key-on/engine-off.
    I configured it to enable Above 600 RPM, and with a 190F Activation - 185F Secondary Deactivation (Hysteresis Mode).
    You're not changing or adding anything to the Electric Fan #1/#2 parameters in "Basic I/O" - System ICF (you're abandoning
    those preexisting EFI software parameters). This alternative Electric Fan control is created in the custom "Inputs/Outputs ICF",
    not in the "Basic I/O" - System Parameters.

    Other criteria can be programmed too; such as adding a third Sensor Input Trigger (>95% TPS) to deactivate it at WOT.
    Some Holley EFI users with a VSS, program the electric fans to deactivate above a certain (MPH) road speed. I chose not to.
    If you want the electric cooling fan(s) on with the A/C, add one "A/C IAC Kick" Switched Input Trigger, with the "OR" option.
    Again, this alternative Electric Fan control is created in the custom Inputs/Outputs ICF, not in the Basic I/O - System Parameters.
    If you created electric fan Outputs in the Inputs/Outputs ICF (not the System ICF), then nothing is programmed in Basic I/O.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....8389#post58389 (How To Create A Custom Input/Output)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...3586#post63586 (2 Speed Electric Fan Control Information)

    If the I/O menu icon (ICF) isn't already uploaded (added) to the top Toolbar, follow these instructions:
    (This same procedure applies to all the various Individual Configuration menu icons/items.)
    The "I/O" function is an "Individual Configuration" of the Holley EFI software.
    At top of screen, Click "Toolbox" and "Add Individual Config".
    At top of new window, select "Individual Configuration Library".
    At bottom of new window, select "Holley EFI Inputs/Outputs Config".
    Select "I/O" and open "Base Config - Blank.io".
    The "I/O" icon will then be present at top of screen.
    After creating the new Input, "Pin Map" it to an available ECU connector input pin.

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    The Holley HP ECU does have two programmable "PWM+" & "PWM−" Outputs (or two 12V & ground switched Outputs and four Inputs).
    However, all these Outputs are limited to 2 amps, so an appropriate electronic (solid state) controller is necessary for PWM control.
    A PWM electronic controller is required, to convert the PWM signal (from the ECU), into variable voltage to the electrical component.

    Contact the manufacturer of your electric motor (fuel pump, water pump, cooling fan, etc.) for the recommended frequency.
    Also, be sure your electric pump or fan is capable of pulse width modulation. Not all electric motors are capable of PWM.

    First, create the custom Output(s) in the I/O ICF. Name it, select PWM+ or PWM−, Enable & Configure it.
    Open PWM Setup. Select "Fixed" Type, "Duty Cycle %" Table Units, and enter the Frequency.
    Configure which two ECU parameters (X & Y axis) you'd like to control the PWM Output Table.
    Then "Pin Map" this new Output to an available J1 pin/connector (see "View Outputs"), and run this wire to the PWM relay/controller.
    UPDATE: See post #32 for Pulse Width Modulated electric cooling fan control details.

    FYI: Holley's 554-111 High Current Relay (device/solenoid driver) is not for use as a continuous duty pulsing relay.
    It's rated at 40 amps and can operate at 100% duty cycle continuously or temporarily pulsing (PWM) high currents.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r11304.pdf (NOS 15620NOS Solid State Relay Instructions - See Page 2)

    The Holley ECUs already has two existing Electric Fan Outputs (not PWM) in Basic I/O - System Parameters.
    3) Terminator EFI users also have two ECU Electric Fan Outputs.
    The ECU provides a ground output to trigger an electric fan relay.
    Read section 11.0 (page 14) & section 26.1.1 (page 25) of the owner's manual:
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10653rev10.pdf (Terminator EFI Manual)
    The 3-wire mating I/O Harness is already included with the Terminator EFI system.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10704.pdf (Holley 558-420 Terminator EFI Remaining I/O Kit)

    4) If anyone needs an electric fan relay/wiring kit, this Holley kit works with C950, Avenger, HP & Dominator ECUs:

    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/534-134 (Electric Fan Relay/Wiring Kit)
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10158rev.pdf (Relay/Wiring Kit Instructions)
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/40100G (Mr. Gasket 40100G Sealed 30/40 Amp Relay Kit)
    These instructions illustrate the C950 ECU control, but it's the same for Avenger, HP & Dominator ECUs.


    https://www.holley.com/products/cool...ds/parts/FB403 (Frostbite Electric Fan Relay/Wiring Kit)
    http://documents.holley.com/frostbit...structions.pdf (Frostbite Relay/Wiring Kit Instructions)
    You won't need the included sensor for ECU fan control, but this kit has a sealed relay for the same price.

    5) Electric Fan Relay Wiring/Pin-Outs
    Electric Fan #1/#2 relay terminals (ECU ground signal scenario):
    #85 - Ground signal from ECU Output.
    #86 - Fused +12V power to relay coil.
    #30 - Fused +12V power to relay contact.
    #87 - +12V power to electric fan.
    #87A - Not used in this application.
    Terminals #30 & #87 can be reversed.
    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf (Understanding Relays)

    Electric Fan #1/#2 relay terminals (ECU +12V signal scenario):
    #85 - Ground to relay coil.
    #86 - +12V signal from ECU Output.
    #30 - Fused +12V power to relay contact.
    #87 - +12V power to electric fan.
    #87A - Not used in this application.
    Terminals #30 & #87 can be reversed.
    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf (Understanding Relays)

    It's nothing special. Although for ECU wiring, a relay with a resistor or diode (across the coil) should be used.
    It's a typical five terminal automotive relay (Bosch/Tyco) that can be obtained at your local auto parts store.
    The first six relays listed below, are all the same five terminal SPDT configuration, with bracket & resistor:
    Tyco V23234-A1001-X043
    Bosch 0 332 209 161
    Hella 87420
    Pico 5591PT (Relay/Wiring Kit)
    Pico 5593PT (Sealed Relay/Wiring Kit)
    Echlin/Napa AR143 (Wiring Kit)
    Echlin/Napa AR204 (50 amp, diode protected - correct wiring polarity required.)
    It can be a Micro Relay if size is a concern (LINK 5-pin with diode suppression, LINK 4-pin with resistor suppression).

    It's the end user's responsibility to ensure the wiring polarity is correct on the diode protected relays they're using.
    The industry standard, is terminal #85 - ground. The relays I've seen labeled #85 - positive, were all cheap quality.
    The reputable, good quality relays are all terminal #85 - ground. If you don't want to concern yourself with the
    correct wiring polarity, just use a resistor type relay (no polarity wiring matters). For diode relays, the relays
    have a schematic diagram on their side. Follow the directions below regardless of relay manufacturer:
    +12V - Anode
    Ground - Cathode
    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf
    (Diode vs. Resistor Relays - Page 12 & 13)

    6) I'm running the Spal dual 12" electric fans (with the integral mounting shroud). These electric fans cool very good (3168 CFM),
    and this new curved blade design is a lot quieter than their previous straight blade design. They spike on at about 55 amps, and
    run continuously at 39 amps. I use this heavy duty (a little larger than the typical 4-pin relay) Bosch 75 amp power relay
    #0 332 002 156 with built-in diode protection (series & parallel diodes). I had already wired the circuit using heavy gauge wire
    and with the addition of this relay, my electric fans have given me years of trouble free service. Spal specifies one 60 amp Maxi
    fuse (LINK) with a single 75 amp relay (two 30 amp fuses if using two conventional relays). One Maxi fuse wire can be connected
    directly onto a relay eyelet terminal (see image below). This is the absolute best electric cooling fan relay I've ever used:

    https://www.waytekwire.com/item/7555...6-Power-Relay/ (Tyco 75 Amp Relay)
    http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/bos...wer+relay,3648 (Bosch 75 Amp Relay)
    https://www.waytekwire.com/item/3800...le-Connector-/ (Optional Mating Connector)
    http://www.theelectricaldepot.com/pdf/pwr%20relay2.pdf (Dimensional Drawing)
    http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/299.pdf (Maxi Fuses)

    I highly recommend this diode protected 75 amp relay, since it can protect your sensitive
    electronic components such as ECUs, ignition modules/boxes, stereo equipment, etc.
    This is an excerpt from Hella concerning diode protected relays:
    Eliminating voltage spikes: Voltage spikes from 300V to 500V can occur momentarily when a relay is switched off.
    Sensitive electronic equipment can be damaged or malfunctions can occur if these spikes reach the vehicle electrical
    network without suppression. A relay with a resistor reduces these voltage spikes to less than 100 Volts. A relay with
    a diode eliminates them completely. The correct polarity of the connections is marked on the diode protected relay.


    7) If incorporating a switch to manually override the ECU, you simply need a diode on the ECU's fan signal wire.
    This is to prevent back-feeding voltage or ground (depending on the "Output Type" selected) into the ECU.
    If incorporating a switch to manually disable the fans, no diode is required since the switch just opens the signal wire.
    (Purpose built 4WD/off-road vehicles may manually turn the fans off before crossing deep water to prevent breakage.)

    A diode is also required if the air conditioning is directly wired to activate the fan relay (single relay scenario).
    I prefer to use a dedicated A/C relay, in addition to the existing fan relay, to activate the electric fan(s).
    Shrink tube the installation. The relay trigger (coil) is very low amperage, so this diode works well:
    Click image for larger version

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    https://www.radioshack.com/products/...nt=20332048261 (Radio Shack 2761144)
    I like to use strong diodes, just so it isn't a weak link, harness-wise.
    Some diodes are so flimsy, you can pull them apart with your fingers.

    8) The Holley V5 EFI software/ECU firmware finally added an A/C activated option for the electric fans. Check mark A/C "IAC Kick"
    in the Holley EFI software (Basic I/O - System Parameters), select a +12V or Ground Input Type in Inputs/Outputs (still in the
    System ICF), and Pin Map it to an available "H" (+12V) or "G" (Ground) Input Type pin. See below for more information.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...teoverview.pdf (Holley EFI V5 EFI Software Update Overview - Pages 7 & 8)
    Originally posted by Holley EFI V5 EFI Software Update Overview
    Fans, Pumps, A/C
    A checkbox is now available for Fan #1 & Fan #2. This ONLY appears if the A/C "IAC Kick" input is selected
    & used. When the A/C IAC Kick input (an input triggered when Air Conditioning is active), the user has the
    option to have one or both of the fans automatically come on, independent of engine coolant temperature.
    Click image for larger version

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    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  • #2
    Wired in my electric fan as per above direction. Now my fan turns on when key is turned forward.
    Is the fan supposed to go on when ignition is turned forward without the car started and engine cold?
    I have the turn on temp at 160 and turn off temp at 159. I have Pin Mapped it to B12 Output #1.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by 93aod View Post
      Is the fan supposed to go on when ignition is turned forward without the car started and engine cold?
      No it's not. You must have it wired wrong, probably at the relay.
      The only time the fan should run, key-on/engine-off, is if the engine is hot (above "On" setting).

      I have Pin Mapped it to B12 Output #1.
      OK, but which "Output Type" did you select for Electric Fan #1 in Inputs/Outputs (under System Parameters)?
      May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
      '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

      Comment


      • #4
        Danny, I need an education here. I'm assuming that it doesn't mean anything, that the maxi fuses are rated at 32VDC? And which amperage do you use? Thank you!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by tthomp View Post
          I'm assuming that it doesn't mean anything, that the maxi fuses are rated at 32VDC?
          Correct, automotive fuses are rated at 32V.

          And which amperage do you use?
          That depends on the amperage draw of your electric fan(s).
          May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
          '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

          Comment


          • #6
            Danny, if I wanted to be able to turn my fans on, with the key off, to cool the truck down without the engine running. Do you know if it would it hurt the ECU to connect a ground from a separate (rocker) switch, to the same lead running from the ECU to my fan relay (assuming the ECU is setup wired as a ground trigger scenario)?
            Richard
            1969 C-10 SWB Step
            355 Small Block
            700R4 Trans, 2500 stall & 3.73 gears

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by riche View Post
              Do you know if it would it hurt the ECU to connect a ground from a separate (rocker) switch, to the same lead running from the ECU to my fan relay (assuming the ECU is setup wired as a ground trigger scenario)?
              Not if everything is in proper working order. But if there's ever a problem, you'll wish you had installed the $1.99 diode.
              May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
              '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

              Comment


              • #8
                As always, thank you sir.
                Richard
                1969 C-10 SWB Step
                355 Small Block
                700R4 Trans, 2500 stall & 3.73 gears

                Comment


                • #9
                  Danny, I do not have any more "ground" outputs left in my HP setup due to having a water/meth setup. Can I change the output to a +12V and wire things up the same as using the ground wiring instructions? Or is there specific wiring instructions for the +12V setup? (When referring the the COOLING FAN RELAY KIT P/N 534-134 instructions listed above). Thanks in advance.
                  Last edited by gmslayer; 07-19-2014, 07:32 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by gmslayer View Post
                    Can I change the output to a +12V and wire things up the same as using the ground wiring instructions?
                    Yes, you can select the Electric Fan "Output Type" (+12V or Ground) in Inputs/Outputs - System Parameters.

                    Relay terminals (ECU +12V signal scenario):
                    #85 - ground to relay coil
                    #86 - +12V signal from ECU
                    #30 - fused +12V power to relay contact
                    #87 - +12V power to electric fan
                    #87A - not used in this application
                    Terminals #30 & #87 can be reversed.
                    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf (Understanding Relays)
                    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
                    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Danny, why do you prefer to use ground triggers instead of +12V?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 3pedals View Post
                        Danny, why do you prefer to use ground triggers instead of +12V?
                        Because if there's ever a wiring problem, such as a chaffed/shorted wire, it doesn't damage the circuit.
                        A short circuit on a ground triggered Output, will activate the electric fans, not render them inoperable.
                        Also, if the Output fails, it's much easier to jump the circuit with a jumper wire to ground, than find +12V.
                        May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
                        '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Danny, I'm not really sure about diodes. If I want to put one on a negative trigger wire coming from the ECU to my fan relay, do I put the Anode side towards the ECU, and the Cathode side towards the relay?
                          Richard
                          1969 C-10 SWB Step
                          355 Small Block
                          700R4 Trans, 2500 stall & 3.73 gears

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by riche View Post
                            Danny, I'm not really sure about diodes. If I want to put one on a negative trigger wire coming from the ECU to my fan relay...
                            You can simply use a diode protected relay (see center of post #1), and avoid installing a separate diode.

                            ...do I put the Anode side towards the ECU, and the Cathode side towards the relay?
                            Check the polarity (Link) before permanently installing it in the circuit. A diode only allows current to flow in one direction (Link).
                            If the ECU provides +12V power, connect the Anode to the ECU. If the ECU provides Ground, connect the Cathode to the ECU.
                            May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
                            '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Does anyone have experience with solid state relays? I have Hella H41773001 relays that I assumed (incorrectly) were interchangeable with standard Bosch relays, since they plug right in, and don't come with a wiring diagram. I have my fans setup with a PWM- signal and the relays are behaving strangely. The fans are on when the key is off, but turn off when I turn the key on. Everything works fine with a standard relay. I also have a +12V triggered circuit that does not work correctly with a solid state relay, but works fine with a standard one.

                              I did some Googling and found that these relays don't operate exactly the same as Bosch type mechanical relays, and need to be wired differently. Some even claim the terminals need to be changed, but I can't find a definitive wiring diagram anywhere. Here is a link describing some of the same issues I'm having: Click. Removing the wire suggested in this thread does not seem like it would solve my problem, but I haven't tried it either. Also, this guy suggests running a separate relay to cut power because of the PWM dumping to ground. I'm pulsing the ground, so I'm not sure if this is relevant. Adding another relay is a deal breaker for me and I will just abandon the PWM and use standard relays. I also am not wild about changing the pin locations, since then I can't swap relays in a break-down situation unless I switch all of my relays to solid state. Any input?

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