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How do I configure fuel level on Digital Dash?

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  • #16
    I am by no means an expert here, but I believe it'd go to the sensor ground on the Dominator.

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    • #17
      J3 B1 on the Dominator?

      I used pin 14 on the I/O connector from 558-433 Adapter, and it's reading perfect now. The instructions only say ground next to certain pins and it doesn't say what the additional pins are used for, other than the description of what IO1-IO10 are used for. I'm assuming pins 2,6,14,15,16,17,18,19 are all suitable grounds for anything you'd want to hook up, i.e. a fuel level gauge.

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      • #18
        I only have the 6.86" Pro Dash using it as a stand-alone so I only have one option. But looking at the instructions for what you have what you did should be fine. Especially if it's working now! Ha Ha.

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        • #19
          Must have compound issues, Today I checked the Ohms when I was having an erroneous reading, and I got no reading on my multimeter. Went out after the car cooled down and checked it again and it seems right. I'm going to replace the wire going to the sending unit, ground the tank at the battery and run my ground lead from the I/O Adapter pin to the battery shouldn't have any issues then. I'll report back on what I find, just in case someone has a similar issue in the future.

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          • #20
            Just to follow up on my issue, I had a ground to the chassis to the body of the fuel sender. Per the video that Danny suggested, I also ran a ground from the Digital Dash to the sender body, with the same result, slowly going to 0 after startup. So I checked with an Ohm meter and the signal was being distorted when the fuel pump was on. While the fuel pump was off the Ohms read good & clean. As soon as the fuel pump came on, the signal was bouncing radically. So I was going to remove the sender/pump and check it out. I unhooked the chassis ground and left only the Digital Dash ground connected, and then my fuel gauge worked like it should with the pump on or off.

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            • #21
              Yeah, it didn't like that dirty chassis ground. Thanks for the update.
              May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
              '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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              • #22
                Alright, problem is fixed! I read from the sender ground to the sender wire and got 66 Ohms which is correct for the amount of fuel that I have in the tank. Next I ran a 10 foot test lead from the ground at the tank and connected that to one side of my meter. I connected the other side of the meter to my ground location and checked for resistance. Resistance was around 1.2 Ohms, not terrible and as far as I'm concerned for now it will do as an adequate ground for the fuel gauge. Next I hooked my test lead up to my Digital Dash ground location and checked the resistance at the I/O connector for the Digital Dash. From the tank, it was bouncing all over, I checked the connection point at the tank wiring harness and found my problem. When I disconnected the factory spade terminal, I checked the tank side for resistance reading and got 66 Ohms. I cleaned the connection and put some anti-corrosive conductive lubricant on the connection and clicked it back together. This time I went just after the connection and did my resistance check, jumping all around. I cut the male side spade off soldered a new one on and connected it. Fuel gauge reads correct now with no issues. I took the 1/2" piece of wire with the spade terminal on it over to the bench and inspected the crimp, solid, the shiny coating on the male spade connector. It looked gray and dull, I did a resistance check from the metal portion of the spade connector is several spots to the piece of wire on the end that I cut off. Reading all over the place. Moral of the story, get a meter, do a resistance check verify your wiring check you terminal ends and remove any connectors that aren't weather tight. I'll be removing the factory connector and replacing it with a Delphi Weather-Pack single wire connector. Hope this helps if anyone has similar symptoms.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by TxFireman1972 View Post
                  Yeah, I'm on YellowBullet too. Was wanting to know if anyone here is actually running it. Doesn't seem to be a lot of people actually using it.
                  I am, I love it. But no cruise nights to go to right now, so it sits most of the time. I'm also on the Bullet. I have the Pro-Dash hooked up to my Sniper 4500 at the moment, but I need Oil pressure, and Fuel level as well.

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                  • #24
                    So I'm having some issues. Running a Sniper EFI kit with the 7" Digital Dash. I have the I/O Harness & Adapter all wired up, IO10 (pin 13). The fuel level is about a third of a tank, and I'm 99.9% sure the sending unit is 0-90 Ohms, although it could be 1-88 Ohms as that is the stock Jeep YJ sending unit values. Either way, I've tried both with inaccurate results The Ohms reading directly from the sending unit is 25.8, and the Ohms reading at pin 13 where it plugs into the Digital Dash is 27 Ohms. Length of the wire adds some, but not much resistance. I set the parameters as 0 = 0 & 90= 100. But the gauge is reading 94 for fuel level, which I know is not the case. The fuel sending unit is grounded to the frame, but I even hooked up a ground to pin 14 and hooked it to the receiver unit, same results. I know the float isn't stuck because 25.8 is close to a third / quarter, which the tank is right between that area. My fuel pump wires are this style below, and I don't think they are designed to be removed, I pried a bit on the plastic covering with a flathead. The intent here was to clean to the connections as others had mentioned.

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                    Last edited by Jeepisnt; 08-18-2022, 09:03 PM.

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