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How not to Install/Wire.

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  • How not to Install/Wire.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20230101_182319.jpg Views:	6 Size:	1.46 MB ID:	368976 Click image for larger version  Name:	20230101_203500.jpg Views:	3 Size:	1.72 MB ID:	368977 Click image for larger version  Name:	20221231_145200.jpg Views:	3 Size:	2.79 MB ID:	368978 I question how some people think this is "OK" and charge customers for this kinda work. I'm going to have to start updating this thread every time I get something in to tune. They always claim it cranks and runs just needs to be tuned.

    Open the hood, see this mess, call customer to come back and pickup this piece of junk. He said fix whatever needs fixing. Quick glance and alternator only puts out 12.2 volts. Found that nice resistor inline to alternator connector. Belt squeals, bent A/C compressor bracket. Missing a spacer and they tightened up the idler bolt way too tight.
    It's slow to crank and sometimes resets the Terminator X Max ECU wiping the tune out. Bed mounted battery with 2 AWG THHN wire run to the battery terminals that aren't hooked to battery under hood. Check out the MAT sensor holding the $5 AutoZone air filter on. What kinda stuff do you guys see that come to you?

  • #2
    Nothing a few pieces of duct tape and zip ties can't fix. I assume the blue painters tape is for structural stability of the black wire right?

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    • #3
      I love wiring, but there are limits. Worst I've had to fix were household wire twist nuts with Romex wiring, un-insulated poorly crimped terminals and my favorite of all, same colored wire for every circuit! I just have to laugh every time.

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      • #4
        Oh yeah, I've removed a fair amount of wire nuts, Romex, THHN wire, hose clamps holding wires together, the old twist-&-tape wire jobs. It's comical.

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        • #5
          Sorting our more voltage drop issues. Found this: Click image for larger version  Name:	20230105_184251.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.07 MB ID:	369065

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          • #6
            Those pictures look like something out of a wiring horror movie!

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            • #7
              Yeah, shameful.
              May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
              '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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              • #8
                Click image for larger version  Name:	Noahs_bad_wiring.jpg Views:	0 Size:	370.4 KB ID:	369291

                Here's a picture that I keep. It's from four years ago and sometimes when I'm showing friends or coworkers pictures of my LS3 swapped Fox body project, I like to show them an example of how not to do wiring!

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                • #9
                  I like the melted insulation. I've got another good one coming in next week. It gets all the rigged wiring torn out and start over.

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                  • #10
                    My brain hurts from seeing this nightmare, LOL.

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