This information above, is also found in the Holley EFI software; click on "Help", "Contents" & "Crank & Cam Sensor Setup".Originally Posted by Holley "Help" Contents
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....=7592#post7592 (Sensor Diagnostics & Datalogs)
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...__statuses.pdf (Sensor Diagnostics & Statuses)
http://documents.holley.com/crank-camsensorreq.pdf (Crank & Cam Sensor Requirements)
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...re/CamSync.jpg (Pictorial diagram of a 4x crank trigger and 1x cam sync.)
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...0#post26386690 (Incorrect Digital Falling Signals - 4x Crank & 1x Cam)
http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/Counterpoint3_1.pdf (Understanding/Troubleshooting Hall-Effect Sensors)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ons-Holley-EFI (FAST Dual Sync Distributor Wiring & Setup Instructions)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....nition-Harness (Cadillac Northstar Ignition/Coil Pack Wiring)
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....7990#post47990 (Wiring Modification To Pin B20, "EST +12V Output")
The following information is only if you decide to put timing marks on the damper (#1 cylinder TDC identification & 30° example):
If necessary, use a spark plug hole type piston stop & degree wheel to first establish TDC, then make a damper mark at 30°.
FYI: This procedure can also be used to correctly install/position a crank trigger kit/cam sync unit at 60°, 180°, 195°, etc. (Link).
If using spark plug type piston stop, some people remove rocker arms from #1 cylinder to avoid the risk of valves contacting tool.
Also, remove all spark plugs for easy turning force (no compression) to prevent damage from harsh piston-to-tool contact.
There's nothing wrong with installing a timing tape. Just ensure it's the correct one for your diameter damper.
You don't necessarily need a timing tape, because both timing synchronizations can be performed with one timing mark.
Multiply the damper diameter by 3.14159 (Pi), then divide by 360°. The answer is the distance in inches for one degree.
For a 30° timing mark, multiply this value by 30. Cut out this distance on a strip of paper to avoid a straight line measurement.This is the difference between "Digital Falling" and "Digital Rising". Digital Falling is much preferred:Originally Posted by Holley New ECU Documentation
I've data logged the difference on the same Hall-Effect sensor, and Digital Rising had RPM errors.
Just some reference notes pertaining to crank trigger adjustments:
The crank sensor sliding bracket, now does the task that turning the distributor once did.
With a crank trigger, turning the distributor only adjusts rotor phasing.
MSD has a good video on why rotor phasing is important:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWMlNwGW0tM (MSD Tech - Rotor Phasing Video)
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedF...or_phasing.pdf (MSD Rotor Phasing Document)
Excerpt from Holley manual:
NOTE - It is not advised to use a magnetic pickup distributor to directly feed the magnetic trigger input of the ECU. If the
magnetic pickup distributor is connected to the ECU via the inductive pickup trigger wires, the pickup/rotor/cap phasing
must be corrected. This operation may require a phaseable cap or rotor or possibly machining to the distributor and is
therefore beyond the scope of most users. Even with the phasing corrected, the electrical noise inside the cap
(due to the high voltage cap & rotor terminals) may be strong enough to cause electrical noise interference.
It is advised to use a crank trigger system or a computer-controlled distributor.